Ponta del Sorapis (Sorapíš - Sorapiss) and Croda Marcora from Chiapuzza

Premise

This route was traveled on August 16, 2018, and all subsequent observations and considerations can fully apply only to that day.

I absolutely recommend reading the guide “Dolomiti Sorapíš and Western Marmarole – 101% true mountain” by Paolo Beltrame: the report on the ascent to Ponta del Sorapis is unparalleled and removes all doubt from anyone.

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From Rifugio San Marco, follow the CAI 226 signs for Forcella Grande.

From the sign “FORCELLA GRANDE MT 2255” continue by rounding to the left (along CAI 246) the basin that closes the upper Val di San Vito, and pass a second sign “FON DE RU SECCO MT 2445” with a clearly wrong elevation (it is a few dozen meters higher than the previous one).

Now continue by beginning to climb over easy steps on a well-marked path until the large expanse of Fond de Rusecco or Ruseco (at an altitude just above 2,500) where you leave the track that continues towards Bivacco Slataper.

On the right, in the direction of the arrival, there is a fairly obvious small path trace with cairns from the first meters onward.

Continue on this path reaching the scree to be ascended up to the base of the rock band where the ascent route to Ponta del Sorapis and Croda Marcora begins – here immediately visible red marks.

Without replicating Paolo Beltrame's excellent detailed description, the general sense of the ascent can be defined as follows:

• Easy initial "step" followed by a long ledge-like trace towards the left
• Exit from this first ledge via a small gully – the key passage of the entire excursion – which raises the level to another ledge-like trace that still runs left
• Exit onto easy rocks that raise the level further and lead to another long ledge-like trace that, however, runs right, opposite to the two previous ones
• At the end of this last trace there is a more varied section of rocks, steps, short notches, and connections that lead to the summit cross of Ponta del Sorapis
• About halfway along this last ledge-trace (and shortly after a small waterfall), there is the deviation for the “fairly comfortable” final ascent to Croda Marcora

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Key passage of the gully with wedged boulder

In various readings on the topic I found ratings between grade II and III: Paolo Beltrame states that – if you look carefully – it remains within grade II or II+ climbing in opposition but not starting right under the wedged boulder.

In my opinion, it can also be II+ but it requires caution, especially descending.

Today I noticed two equipped anchors and a rope on the lower one at the height of the boulder (I had not read anything about this).

Since there is no certainty of finding the rope in good condition over the years, I recommend bringing one to have the guarantee of descending more relaxed.