Zirc – Csőszpuszta (OKT 20th day hike)

We start the hike from "the capital of Bakony", the highest-altitude town in our country. At the Zirc train station, we find the Blue Trail stamp, then walking a few meters along Állomás Street, we join the K sign following Köztársaság Street, which leads entirely on asphalt to Nagyesztergár. On the winding, two-kilometer section between the fields, it is worth looking back at the town left behind and the mountains of Magas-Bakony. On the main street of Nagyesztergár (Radnóti Miklós u.), within the tight rows of houses, there is no special sight, then turning right along Erdei Ferenc Street, we head towards nature. (The village's local history exhibition at Purgly Castle and the birthplace of the Pauline monk Pál Ányos are not touched by the Blue Trail.)

Initially over a panoramic meadow, then descending along acacias into the Gaja stream valley, which leads eastward over increasingly deeper terrain. We follow the most significant and high water yield watercourse of the eastern part of Bakony through a path narrowing from bushes and blackberry. Its cleanliness is indicated by the fact that trout live in it, and other fish species like it as well. Crossing a clear-cut patch, we notice a dilapidated building: the former granary is the last remnant of Veimpuszta. The medieval-origin settlement had 200 inhabitants in the 1960s but was eventually razed to the ground by the socialist utopia, and its residents were relocated to nearby settlements. Only the granary ruins, the cemetery, and a few electric poles remain from the village reclaimed by nature.

Crossing fords that cause difficulties during floods, we arrive at the border of Bakonynána on the winding, undulating road of Cser-hát. From here, we walk on asphalt that leads to the intersection of Alkotmány Street and Tési Road. Here, fixed to a pole, we find the stamp of our hike. A water pump was also here, but those wanting more refreshments must walk a few extra meters in Bakonynána – the K sign just touches the village before returning to the side of the Gaja.

Bakonynána – Jásd

We walk on a gravel path to the former sawmill building, now a guesthouse. Circling the building, we traverse a path running along the steep bank of the stream. At high water, we can hear the roaring Gaja below, whose wild gorge can be seen here and there. However, the K sign does not lead to the most exciting point of the watercourse, the amazingly rocky area known as the Roman Bath. Don't skip the KΩ sign's detour of just a few hundred meters, at whose branch there is an forest rest stop equipped with rain shelters and fire pits.

One of the most impressive narrow canyons in Bakony is the Roman Bath with a waterfall and a swift, abundant creek adorning its wild gorge. The lovely rock corridor was carved by Gaja from the limestone forming the mountain range, whose rock steps mainly thunder down water especially after heavy rainfalls. (At the top of the rock wall is the hideout of the Bakony outlaw, the Savanyó Jóska cave.) We can walk the moss-covered low tunnel at low water level to reach the forestry road on the other side leading back to the Blue Trail.

The K sign continues traversing above the Gaja, then as the valley's steepness softens, we descend next to the creek, eventually crossing it. The path winds on the slope called Vadalmás towards the east, finally returning to the left bank. On this romantic section, we find several forest rests with rain shelters, fire pits, and some small wooden bridges (forest resting places), all excellent locations for family picnics, roasting bacon, or camping. The best-equipped is the Vadalmás spring located on the opposite bank of the stream, and thanks to its covered buildings and good facilities, it is the best bivouac and tent spot in the area – even providing spring water.

We continue following the creek, gradually exiting the increasingly wider gorge. The wild landscape suddenly disappears, replaced by a gently rolling flowered meadow bordered by hills. We experience a very different atmosphere in Bakony, crossing a flowered meadow by following a cart road and arriving once again at an iconic Bakony site, the Jásd Holy Well.

The spring near Jásd is over 600 years old, believed by folk tradition to have healing powers, making it one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in our country. The current sanctuary was built in baroque-rococo style between 1825–1837, replacing an earlier wooden chapel, and later benches and statues were added in the now bypassed area.

From the Holy Well, a few minutes' walk takes us into Jásd, a village of somewhat over 700 inhabitants, founded in the Árpád era. After the Turkish occupation, it was repopulated by Slovaks and Germans, which influences today's settlement image and part of the population's identity. One stamp is found by the small shop, and the other on a board at the intersection of Kossuth Lajos Street and Patak Street.

Jásd – Csőszpuszta (Tés)

From Jásd we cross the Gaja again, then follow the K signs southward on a not too steep climb. The terrain changes again as we walk through a dense beech forest on a narrow path until we reach the Siska Well. It is said that after heavy rains, water spurts from this spring like a fountain, with the phenomenon likely caused by the temporary pressure of water accumulating in the storage of the plateau's rock body at the foot of the Tési plateau.

We continue ascending a narrow path overgrown with greenery and can make a detour crossing a forestry road to reach the K▲ sign leading to the Count Széchenyi Zsigmond Lookout. Named after the hunter, traveler, and writer, the 18 m high wooden lookout mainly overlooks the northern parts of Bakony. The distant wind turbines indicate the windy nature of this area. Unfortunately, the panorama is somewhat spoiled by the old beech forests fragmented by clear cuts, but it still remains a wonderful viewing point.

Returning to the K signs, we continue climbing in a young forest interspersed with scattered old trees. We only need to walk a few hundred meters to reach the picturesque Tési plateau on a steep climb. On the varied Blue Trail section from Bakonynána to Tés, Bakony shows a new face. We reach Tés at its northern boundary, where the K signs turn east along the main road towards the stamp located at the Alba Regia Cave Research Center. But let’s not rush; take time and energy to admire the unique ornaments of the windy plateau!

The main sight of Tés is the two windmills rare in Transdanubia: the Helt-type built in 1840 and the Ozi-type built in 1924. Of these, the Helt Mill is still operational and open to visitors. The characteristic of Dutch-type windmills is that their roofs rotate; their stone mill bodies operate with six-sail wings. Under favorable wind conditions, they could grind up to 400 kg daily.

The folk and industrial heritage windmills' visit can be combined with a visit to the blacksmith workshop at Táncsics Street 20. The original workshop of Ferenc Cseszneki, lord’s blacksmith, preserved in its original condition, worthily preserves the memory of Tés craftsmen. Other local historical curiosities and old agricultural tools can also be seen here.

The K signs from Tés (passing a buffet and pub offering hot meals) head towards Csőszpuszta. We reach it by walking along the country road. Here is the next stamp and the research station of Bakony's longest and deepest cave, which is also the fourth deepest cave in Hungary. (The cave itself opens two kilometers from here.)

Visiting the closed passages of the strictly protected Alba Regia Cave requires permission and caving practice, so no underground experiences are available for laypeople. However, the research station's laboratory and exhibition rooms offer an opportunity to learn about natural values, but prior appointment is required for a visit. Benches near the research station building provide comfort.

The bus stop of the Tési junction is located only a few meters from the end point of our hike, providing a disembarking point.