Ferns' Path - Green hike (short)

Itinerary:

Follow the green Ferns' Path sign throughout the route.

• Start from the Csácsbozsok part of Bozsok, then set off along Bozsoki Street heading towards the edge of the settlement.
• After the barrier, continue on the dirt road on the left side.
• At a forest crossroads, turn right towards Karácsony Hill.
• Walk about 1 km along the ridge, then take a sharp right turn downhill.
• At the first roadside cross, turn right; at the second, continue straight ahead.
• Make a detour to the Hideg-kút spring.
• Returning to the road, walk into Bozsok where you will reach your starting point on Szabadság Street.

Detailed description:

The Csácsbozsok district, now part of Zalaegerszeg, was created by the union of the villages Csács and Bozsok. Bozsok was already famous for its forests in the Middle Ages, and fortunately, that remains true today. The area's forests are crossed by hiking trails, and along the city border the Csácsbozsok Arboretum was established to showcase the county’s diverse tree population. Nowadays, the two formerly independent villages are separated by a less natural “barrier,” the main road 76. All three versions of the Ferns' Path start from Bozsok, south of the road, and stay on that side, weaving through the Csács-Botfa forest block.

From the garden suburb to the vineyard hill

We start in a pleasant green garden suburb, initially following the signs on the side of Bozsoki Hill, with a barely noticeable ascent. The asphalt of Bozsoki Street turns into a dirt road after the barrier, letting us experience both the advantages and disadvantages of the clay soil: no dust in summer, but quite challenging during rainy weather (which is not uncommon here). A great advantage of the area is that after only a few steps away from "civilization" we find ourselves in dense forest. Due to the wetter-than-average weather, the air among the hills and valleys is also moister, with noticeably higher humidity.

Soon we reach a meadow reclaimed by vegetation after a previous clear-cut. Here we can spot fast-growing alder trees, oak saplings barely ten centimeters tall, and occasionally young ferns just sprouting. Originally, the densest populations of the route's namesake ferns appeared precisely in this formerly harvested part of the forest, so an information board about them is found here. However, this does not mean smaller or larger ferns cannot be seen along the route, so it's worth keeping your eyes open. The two most common fern species are the shield fern and the lady fern; these non-flowering plants retain their green color until December and prefer lush, moist environments with nutrient-rich deciduous and coniferous forests. In oak, beech, and pine habitats, rarer sightings include the crested shield fern and kidney fern. Ferns are unique among perennials as they have no flowers or fruit and reproduce by spores, which can be observed from July to September on the undersides of the leaves where the spore holders are neatly lined up.

We walk in the former floodplain of the Zala River, where the lower-lying areas have sometimes retained their flat, marshy character. Alder trees, from which the city Zalaegerszeg takes its name, thrive in this environment. Alder groves appear several times along the trails, accompanying us to the first forest junction. Here, we turn right and start ascending to the highest vineyard hill around Zalaegerszeg, Karácsony Hill. The honorable title “hill” is traditionally given to the Zala vineyard hills, though even the highest is just over 300 m.

Climbing begins here through a water-eroded deep path, a gully. The characteristic paths carved almost vertically were formed by steeply flowing water in soft clay soils, and most have been deepened and widened by everyday use to become suitable roads. Asphalt-lined versions are mostly encountered near settlements; however, the path to Karácsony Hill can still be traveled in its natural, relatively narrow ditch form.

Dense vegetation accompanies us, which soon levels out as thinning flora allows views over the surrounding forested hills. A few hundred meters later, we reach Karácsony Hill Road where the three previously together routes diverge; while the red turns back into the forest, the green and blue Fern paths continue up the hill.

Among vineyards and orchards

We arrive at the top of Zalaegerszeg, as Karácsony Hill, at 305 meters, is the city's highest point (one meter higher than Kandikóna, considered the highest point of neighboring Göcsej). On the narrow ridge, a realm of fruit trees, vineyards, and weekend houses unfolds, offering fantastic panoramic views in between. Once, every settlement had at least one vineyard hill, tended by locals — whose traces and traditions can be experienced in this uniquely atmospheric place.

Along the next narrow kilometer, on the site of former reed or straw-covered wine cellars, newly built houses, abandoned plots, old wine press houses, and well-maintained holiday homes can all be seen, making for a very varied overall picture. The climate and soil conditions are perfect for fruit growing here, so in summer and autumn the gardens bend under ripe apples, pears, plums, peaches, and walnut trees, while in spring thousands of blooming fruit trees provide a cheerful burst of color.

Looking down from the hilltop, although Karácsony Hill and its surrounding hills do not rise more than a few hundred meters, steep creek valleys cut deeply between them. On the east and west sides of the hillocks stretching south, neatly arranged vineyards are lined up, their reflections visible on the opposite hillocks. Between or on empty plots among the houses, standing towards the west, a magnificent view unfolds, revealing Zalaegerszeg’s dual character. On one hand, the forested rolling greenery of the Upper Vápicka and Zala valleys stands out; on the other, the many houses indicating the city and industrial presence, with the refinery in the foreground. The mosaic landscape is crowned by the TV tower standing atop Bazita, visible from afar.

After the houses fade away, we begin descending with a sharp right turn. While vineyards occupy the upper parts of the hillsides, orchards and arable fields take over below, visible alongside the winding road. Before the crossroads marked by a wooden cross, huge sweet chestnut trees stand sentinel. These centuries-old patriarchs occur here as mixed forest trees due to sub-Mediterranean effects but were once widely cultivated in extensive plantations for the versatile wood. However, their numbers have been decimated by a fungal disease.

Rest spot at the spring

At the next junction also marked with trail signs, the blue and green routes split, and we continue north following the green signs towards Bozsok. Shortly after a large sunflower field, be alert for a staircase on the left leading to the Hideg-kút spring and resting area. If your hike schedule allows for a picnic, this will be the perfect spot!

First, you’ll see a covered rest area with two tables each having two benches waiting for hikers. A few steps down, you will find the refreshingly cool water of the Hideg-kút spring, whose environment is designed to remain accessible even in muddy conditions. The spring's stone-inlaid, vaulted enclosure has a plaque installed in 2022 commemorating the 775th anniversary of Zalaegerszeg’s first written mention from 1247. Being located in a beautiful forest setting, this renovated rest area is easily accessible from both Bozsok and Botfa, quickly becoming a popular excursion spot in the area.

After the detour, we return to the road and arrive back at our easy circular tour starting point in peaceful forest surroundings of Bozsok.