Horhosok útja - Red route (long)

Itinerary

Throughout the route, follow the red signs of the Horhosok útja.

Detailed description of the route

From the outskirts of the town to the Csácsi Hill chapel

Our starting point is in the Csácsbozsok district of Zalaegerszeg, located at Szivárvány Square. It is worth studying the board standing at the corner of the parking lot, at the tip of the square, which provides guidance with a map, sights, and the trail routes before starting the distance.

The building behind the parking lot is named after Imre Izsák, a local-born mathematician, physicist, and astronomer. The scholar made surprising breakthroughs in differential geometry, celestial mechanics, and the precise determination of the Earth's shape – the latter earned him worldwide fame. The institution named after him operates as a primary school, cultural center, and community space.

We quickly leave behind the urban environment and the dense rows of houses and enter the hilly, colorful, and varied world of meadows, forests, orchards, and cellars. Crossing a meadow, we reach a charming group of trees. On one side of the wagon road rises a resin-scented pine forest with an amber carpet-covered floor behind a fence-like enclosure, while on the other side stands a loose group of deciduous trees – as if shepherds guarding 'pine lambs' had gathered here to chat.

Along the areas covered by the route, we encounter several types of pine. The Scots pine favors calcareous, dry soil, so it feels at home on the calcareous-sandy, mica schist soil of the Zala Hills. Small relic populations of this species appear as fresh, fragrant, deep green patches in the Zala region. However, the spruce, introduced from the 1960s, struggles with the drought caused by warming. As its resin production capacity decreases, its immune system weakens, making it vulnerable to bark beetles. First, resin flows appear on the trunk, then the diseased tree sheds its bark and needles – we will see examples of this along our way. This species, which prefers humid, cool climates, feels at home in the northern parts of the continent and at elevations above 1000 meters in our region, thus gradually retreating from this area. Besides them, especially in enclosed gardens, we also find many 'Christmas tree plantations' where Norway spruces are accompanied by silver firs and Nordmann firs.

After leaving a few houses (on the right), our path narrows into a thin track that cuts between the trees, with the forest floor rising step by step on both sides along the trail. We arrive at our first horhos, whose V-shaped walls are uniquely adorned with a dark green carpet of ivy. After overcoming the short ascent, we reach the asphalt strip of Petelihegy Road, where peeking between houses, we can admire the hilly Zala landscape.

At the intersection with Csácsihegyi Road, the nature trail sign draws attention to the nearby baroque chapel, renovated by community cooperation, reachable with a short detour. It’s worth seeing the statue of the Virgin Mary on the side of the 19th-century building, the stone crucifix standing at the corner of the plot, and the wood-carved statue of Saint Urban in the yard. The presence of the protector saint of vine-growers indicates that grapes have been cultivated in this area for centuries. If possible, enter the chapel and take a look at the altarpiece from the mid-1800s, which depicts the Transfiguration of Our Lord.

The spacious, open building next to the chapel hosts numerous community events from the village day and harvest festival to creative camps. Occasionally, mass is also held at the site.

It is recommended to stroll around the fenced area and admire the stately tree, now declared protected, standing on the other side of the road. The small-leaved lime tree marked by a sign has a trunk diameter of 108 cm and is estimated to be about 180 years old.

From Csácsi Hill through the Zala beech forest to Pethőhenye

We continue on asphalt between the gardens and houses of Csácsi Hill. It’s worth peeking into the neatly arranged yards, where in spring we find trees dressed in blossoms and in autumn branches heavy with fruit; from apples, pears, and peaches to medlars and figs, the selection is very varied.

Our path turns into a dirt road as we leave the houses behind. Here, we find an excellent board showcasing local wildlife and their footprints. It’s worth taking photos of which footprint belongs to which animal – the soft soil in the sandy, loess sections of our path often reveals which wild animals have recently passed through. Sometimes we even encounter surprisingly high densities of footprints.

Arriving in the Cserlap district of Zalaegerszeg, we switch back to asphalt. No tracking skills will be needed here: on the left side of the route, a multi-hectare fenced area houses a large group of fallow deer. The deer park belongs to the modern building of László winery a bit further up, where with prior arrangement, one can rest with wine tasting, cellar visits, and homemade oven-baked snacks. A hobby-turned-growing craft winery currently harvests four thousand vines of varieties such as Valentin, Kékfrankos, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.

We again reach the track bordered by ivy among trees. Pines reappear in several patches among the deciduous trees. Here, we temporarily say goodbye first to the green and then to the blue route markings. After a right-angle turn, we pass by a beech forest. It’s worth observing the species characteristics: tall, straight-trunked trees stand relatively densely together, with a less extensive root system. The high canopy layer closes tightly for effective photosynthesis, allowing less sunlight through, so the forest floor, glowing in constant twilight, remains free of shrubs. The herb layer is also poor – except in early spring before leafout, when bulbous plants (such as wild garlic, snowdrops, and species of Corydalis) color the ground. In autumn, we find the trees' fruit, beechnuts, along the route as well, a tasty forest delicacy. Beech forests generally characterize the cool, rainy zones of mountains above 600 m in elevation, but in Hungary, they also thrive in wetter hilly areas like parts of Zala.

At the hilltop of Csillaghegy, near a dilapidated house now past its prime, we make a sharp right turn to descend, crossing wide horhos roads passable by car and leading to road 76. With a U-turn, we climb the long ridge of Köszörűs Hill on mostly solid road deep in the woods. From the edge of the meadow above, it’s worth looking around for the panorama.

Again, we stride among orchards and cellars. In autumn, beside pears, apples, and grapes, we also encounter sweet chestnut trees typical of the region. As we leave the gardens, the long pastures of plowed fields stretch ahead, and moving on softer, sinking soil, we again search for wild footprints. The surface loess soil is well suited to sunflowers, corn, rapeseed, wheat, and occasionally, poppy fields brighten the horizon.

Along the route, we can see several wayside shrines; some made of wood, others from stone. Most were erected in the 19th century by local residents and farmers and crafted by local stonemasons. Many shrines are connected with family memories, festive customs, and even legends. Although time has taken its toll on most, we find a good number in fine condition, even restored ones throughout the hike.

Where the terrain intensifies with more waves, cultivated fields disappear, and nature takes over the main role. We stroll on gently descending roads toward Pethőhenye, surrounded by alternating forests and groves. It’s recommended to watch out at our feet where retiring natural sand emerges, into which car wheels and animal tracks sink deeply. The area’s wildlife abundance is indicated by numerous elevated hunting platforms.

From Pethőhenye to Henye Hill chapel

Arriving at the edge of Pethőhenye, beyond an arched stone gate, the uniquely shaped, 'winged' Roman Catholic church named after Saint Stephen attracts attention. Built between 1999 and 2001 following the designs of Imre Makovecz, the architect and honorary citizen of the village chose the hilltop location himself. During early works, numerous archaeological finds were uncovered while digging foundations. Bones and artifacts found indicate that earlier, a cemetery and another church stood here. The oval-plan, niche-decorated contemporary building’s upper part evokes the rural churches of old times with its wooden paneling. This later organic style temple, realized by community cooperation, is protected as a monument.

We continue between the building and the Stations of the Cross. Crossing the village, it is worth resting on the carved statue-adorned bench at the central bus stop beside the former wheel well. The upper level of the wooden shelter previously functioned as a lookout, from where waiting passengers could quickly spot the arriving bus.

Leaving the village, the asphalt disappears under our boots, and along a loess-sandy road with more wayside shrines, we advance. On the edge of a pine-framed meadow, we notice strange long trenches and parallel earth embankments – these are research ditches of archaeological excavations. Geophysical measurements have indicated that the area has been inhabited by various ethnic groups over millennia and different periods. The archaeologists working here have found artifacts from the Middle Bronze Age, about six thousand years ago, through the Middle Ages until the 14th century in the depths of the trenches. From the found items (ceramics, pottery shards, bone tools, bones, keys), they inferred ancient burial customs and waste storage from three thousand years ago. The greatest discovery was remains of a Roman-era settlement where two houses dug into the ground were identified.

Our route continues in the forest, where the high canopy casts the landscape into mysterious twilight. Occasionally we pass patches of beech forest, under which wild garlic grows vigorously in spring. We travel along the north-south ridge typical of the region (at a point a board draws attention to bees placed nearby), then our path winds along a big bend turning toward the valley. The especially steep hillsides are dotted with vineyards and fruit trees; their cultivation is challenging for farmers on the rugged terrain.

The next board on the thematic route draws our attention to the Henye Hill chapel. The short but very steep detour invites us onto the 288-meter peak of the Chapel Hill, from where we can enjoy splendid panoramas, especially outside the vegetation season. Rows of grapevines streak the hillside, dotted with press houses. To the west colors the county seat, Zalaegerszeg, northward lies the Zala valley, and further the Kőszegi Mountains, as well as the Ság and Somló witness hills. Toward the Keszthely Plateau, we can spot the white, pointed shape of the Zalaszántó Buddhist stupa, and with luck and clear weather, the peaks of the Vienna Alps, including the Rax and Schneeberg, outline on the horizon. Wooden posts with arrow-shaped boards help identify the panorama elements – for the full experience, it is worth taking a telescope from your backpack.

At the Saint Stephen-named chapel, renovated in 2019, a pilgrimage mass is held every year on August 20. According to legend, the king rested here during his kingdom tour, and in his honor, the predecessor of today’s building was erected. The exact construction date of the original wooden chapel at the current site is unknown. It is certain that during the Turkish occupation, the area was depopulated and only repopulated from the early 1700s. Presumably, the current building’s predecessor was erected then, also in honor of Saint Stephen, built from wood. In memory of this, one of the new stone chapel’s images depicts the king giving a crown to the Virgin Mary, who took the fate of the entire country into her hand, thus named the Great Lady of the Hungarians.

The wooden chapel was rebuilt from stone in 1886. During this period, locals made pilgrimages four times a year for masses on the feasts of the Assumption of Mary, Saint Anne, Our Lady of the Snows, and Saint Stephen. After WWII, however, they only came up once a year on Saint Stephen's feast, and this tradition has been preserved to this day. The site’s short history, legends, and panorama elements are described on a board set up by local vine growers. Next to the chapel, there is a table and benches ideal for a short rest.

Csurgó-well and lion's roar

Returning to the trail, we begin a comfortable descent. At the marked intersection, it is worth looking back to the chapel towering on the hill above our heads. Before continuing (the red sign invites right), on the green-marked Horhosok útja, a 250-meter detour leads to the Vari-well, whose structure was expanded with a concrete building in 1935; a covered resting place with tables and benches awaits nearby, and the information board tells about Kisfaludy Castle.

Staying on or returning to the red route, we tackle the third north-south ridge, climbing along enclosed gardens. Peeking into the yards, in spring we see blossoming fruit trees, and in autumn fruits ripe until leaf fall accompany our steps; between buildings and foliage, occasional panorama glimpses open to the surrounding hills; the Zala river meanders in the valley on the left. Benches have been placed at nicer viewpoint spots. After the summit, we turn left and again descend along loess cliffs. Here, too, we observe small and large animal-dug holes in the soft embankment and trees half hanging in the air due to the collapsing crumbly bank.

Emerging from the forest, we turn sharp left onto the valley floor. The landscape changes dramatically: on our left, we tread the edge of the long ridge we crossed earlier, while on the right, endless rows of agricultural fields accompany us. We walk long stretches in open land where a spraying device and countless hunting stands indicate wildlife presence. We need to be alert to not miss the Csurgó well, which offers a sure water source year-round: along the path next to a white stone cross hiding on the left slope, we walk about 100 meters to the spring bursting from the cliff wall.

Once, three springs trickled on the side of Kisfaludi Hill, combined to form today's enclosure. At the beautifully hidden spring, a pilgrimage site was established in the 1930s supported by József Mindszenty, pastor of Zalaegerszeg. The site features a small cave-like hollow shaped into the hillside after the Lourdes appearance of the Virgin Mary, where a Virgin Mary statue made by János Vörös sits (hence the name Maria Well). Afterwards, more visitors came seeking the site, holding litanies and singing by the statue on Sundays. The site was renovated in 1990 (one board mentions this). The spring water was tested in 2008 and received excellent mineral water classification. In early spring, wild garlic grows abundantly here, worth consuming and gathering. One of the thematic route signs draws attention not only to the plant’s origin, appearance, and medicinal effects but also reveals how its name relates to the bear.

Continuing on, the landscape character changes: on the right, agricultural fields give way to wetlands. Willow-cattail patches and moisture-loving alder trees dominate the view. If we could look from a higher point, we’d see that our path runs parallel to the Zala River, and the adjacent area is the river's floodplain. At a sharp turn, the Horhosok útja signboard introduces the local fauna and the values of the Zala floodplain.

We are almost within arm's reach of our starting point (following the green and blue signs, we could even return to the parking area), but the red markings invite us for one last adventure. The trail cuts back from the open area into the foliage to climb a hill and discover another horhos. In the side of the sandy ditch, we can observe rock layers. One deeper hole suggests that locals frequently carried away sand from here for building material.

Our route climbs from the bottom of the horhos to its edge. We pass by a wayside shrine and then climb further on a single-track path covered with an amber ivy carpet. On the left, fences of cellars and weekend houses line our path; looking past them, glimpses unfold of the hilly mosaic of the Zala region. If we hear a lion's roar nearby, it’s no illusion: soon, we step onto a paved road leading to a local petting zoo and animal shelter, where one kennel indeed houses 'the king of animals.'

It’s definitely worth visiting the family business operating since 2012 as a zoo, petting zoo, and animal shelter with children. Otherwise, the residents would perish – many are rescued from the circus world. Currently, about 140 live in the shelter. The biggest sensation is two Bengal tiger cubs (born on July 16, 2022), but there is also an ostrich, kangaroo, emu, lion, alpaca, elk bull, llama, monkey, horse, kangaroo, Asiatic black bear, wolf, peacock, and many other species. Visitors are also welcomed by a playground, trampoline, carousel, and bonfire cooking opportunities.

We walk past holiday homes, weekend houses, orchards, and vineyard arbors. On some empty plots, it’s worth looking out for panoramic views of Zalaegerszeg. Following the signs, we return to the Csácsi Hill chapel (this time approaching from the other side), then after overcoming our last ascent, we start to descend with views opening to both sides. With asphalt underfoot, losing height quickly, we return to our starting point at the cultural center.