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Summit Summit · Zermatt - Matterhorn · 4,540 m

Zumsteinspitze

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  • Zumsteinspitze
    Zumsteinspitze
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
The Zumsteinspitze was the first summit of the Monte Rosa massif to be climbed. Its name comes from the topographer Joseph Zumstein, who explored the peak with other scientists.

Height
 4,563 m

First ascent
 1 August 1820

First climbed by
 Joseph and Johann Nikolaus Vincent, Joseph Zumstein, Joseph Beck, H. Molinatti, Marty and Castel

Tips in the village

  • Zermatlantis, the Matterhorn Museum: reliefs and photos
  • Hotel Monte Rosa, guided tours
  • Mountaineers’ cemetery

Tips for visitors

  • Best view of the Zumsteinspitze: from the Gornergrat (cog railway)

Tips for hikers

  • High-altitude hike to the Monte Rosa hut (glacier trek, mountain guide required)
  • Rotenboden - Riffelberg

Zumsteinspitze: tips for mountaineers

  • Mountain guide necessary
  • Depending on fitness levels, suitable for single or multiple ascents in the Monte Rosa massif
  • Multi-day tour
  • Medium difficulty

Early topographical exploration of the Monte Rosa massif
 The Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) is the third-highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif, located on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It lies between the Dufourspitze and the Signalkuppe, separated by the Grenzsattel (4,453 m) and the Colle Gnifetti (4,453 m). It was first climbed very early in the history of alpinism, for scientific reasons, at a time when the Monte Rosa massif was still completely unknown.

Origin of name   
 Ludwig Freiherr von Welden, the Austrian general and topographer, named the peak after Joseph Zumstein, who completed the first ascent in summer 1820 in the name of scientific research. The two explorers worked together on the mapping of the Monte Rosa massif.

Protection order for the Monte Rosa ibex
 It is likely that ibex on the Monte Rosa massif would now be history had not the draper, natural scientist and forestry inspector Joseph Zumstein from the Val de Gressoney made the House of Savoy aware of the dwindling numbers of these impressive creatures. A protection order, the Patenti, was issued on 21 September 1821.

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Zumsteinspitze

Coordinates

SwissGrid
2'633'573E 1'086'794N
DD
45.931909, 7.871457
DMS
45°55'54.9"N 7°52'17.2"E
UTM
32T 412507 5087101
w3w 
///handsomely.fatigue.hobnob
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Difficulty difficult
Distance 13.5 km
Duration 7:25 h
Ascent 1,640 m
Descent 1,467 m

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Zumsteinspitze

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Features
Maps and trails
Difficulty difficult
Distance 13.5 km
Duration 7:25 h
Ascent 1,640 m
Descent 1,467 m

No ratings (yet)
Outdooractive Creative Commons
Alpine Tour · Zermatt - Matterhorn
Over Zumsteinspitze, Dufourspitze, and Nordend
Premium content Difficulty AD- moderate Stage 5 closed
Distance 15.3 km
Duration 9:00 h
Ascent 638 m
Descent 2,370 m

The last day stage of the famous high-altitude "Spaghetti round" leads over Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), Dufourspitze (4,634 m), and Nordend (4,609 m).

No ratings (yet)
from Hartmut Wimmer,   Outdooractive Climbing
recommended route Difficulty PD difficult Stage 6
Distance 16.4 km
Duration 6:30 h
Ascent 515 m
Descent 2,217 m

The sunrise on the Zumsteinspitze forms the crowning conclusion of the Spaghettiroute.

No ratings (yet)
from Paul Krämer,   alpenvereinaktiv.com
Map / West Lyskamm, East Lyskamm, Signalknuppe, Zumsteinspitze
Difficulty
Distance 23.2 km
Duration 12:20 h
Ascent 2,475 m
Descent 1,937 m

West Lyskamm, East Lyskamm, Signalknuppe, Zumsteinspitze

No ratings (yet)
from Sean James,   Sean James Mountaineering
recommended route Difficulty AD difficult
Distance 26 km
Duration 9:00 h
Ascent 1,858 m
Descent 3,281 m

Ski high alpine tours on technically relatively easily accessible 4000m peaks in a magnificent setting with all glacier hazards.

No ratings (yet)
from Wolfgang Lauschensky,   alpenvereinaktiv.com
Long Distance Hiking
Spaghetti route
recommended route Difficulty difficult Multi-day route
Distance 58.4 km
Duration 39:30 h
Ascent 5,694 m
Descent 5,905 m

Classic high alpine route with numerous 4,000-meter peaks in the Monte Rosa massif.

No ratings (yet)
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Sherif Spaghetti 18
Map / Sherif Spaghetti 18
Difficulty difficult closed
Distance 44.8 km
Duration 23:15 h
Ascent 4,865 m
Descent 5,913 m

Sherif Spaghetti 18

No ratings (yet)
from Sean James,   Sean James Mountaineering
recommended route Difficulty PD<30° difficult
Distance 11.5 km
Duration 5:08 h
Ascent 1,120 m
Descent 1,459 m

Up to the highest hut in the Alps, where you can also find one of the best cappuccinos. From here, you also have a great view over almost the ...

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