MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
Crag
· Burgundy
-
Photo: theCrag
Le Saussois is less visited today but used to be at the very top of free climbing difficulty from the 60s to the mid-80s. It is often described as the birthplace of French sport climbing. Some superb routes here to enjoy in a quite and beautiful area and a piece of climbing history too.
The rock is not perfect everywhere (can be polished, sometimes breakable), but a in few spots, the grey rock is on par with the limestone found in the South of France. You'll find slabs, vertical walls, overhangs and roofs. A lots of holds are small pockets, just enough for one or two fingers (even on 6a!). The climbing is often technical, dynamic and fun.
Take 12 quickdraws and a 70m rope.
On your rest days, enjoy the food, wine and typical scenery.
During the 1970s, the difficulty increases rapidly, with more hard (for the time) routes being free climbed. First French 7a (l'Echelle a poissons), first 7b (l'Ange), 7c+ (Chimpanzodrome), 8a...
The rock is not perfect everywhere (can be polished, sometimes breakable), but a in few spots, the grey rock is on par with the limestone found in the South of France. You'll find slabs, vertical walls, overhangs and roofs. A lots of holds are small pockets, just enough for one or two fingers (even on 6a!). The climbing is often technical, dynamic and fun.
Take 12 quickdraws and a 70m rope.
On your rest days, enjoy the food, wine and typical scenery.
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
- 2b: 2 routes2b: 2 routes
- 3b: 1 route3b: 1 route
- 3c: 1 route3c: 1 route
- 4a: 2 routes4a: 2 routes
- 4b: 2 routes4b: 2 routes
- 4c: 3 routes4c: 3 routes
- 5a: 2 routes5a: 2 routes
- 5b: 6 routes5b: 6 routes
- 5c: 14 routes5c: 14 routes
- 5c+: 2 routes5c+: 2 routes
- 6a: 14 routes6a: 14 routes
- 6a+: 9 routes6a+: 9 routes
- 6b: 9 routes6b: 9 routes
- 6b+: 19 routes6b+: 19 routes
- 6c: 17 routes6c: 17 routes
- 6c+: 16 routes6c+: 16 routes
- 7a: 17 routes7a: 17 routes
- 7a+: 10 routes7a+: 10 routes
- 7b: 15 routes7b: 15 routes
- 7b+: 11 routes7b+: 11 routes
- 7c: 10 routes7c: 10 routes
- 7c+: 8 routes7c+: 8 routes
- 8a: 9 routes8a: 9 routes
- 8a+: 4 routes8a+: 4 routes
- 8b: 1 route8b: 1 route
- 8b+: 3 routes8b+: 3 routes
- 8c: 3 routes8c: 3 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 20 ascentsJanuary: 20 ascents
- February: 2 ascentsFebruary: 2 ascents
- March: 6 ascentsMarch: 6 ascents
- April: 31 ascentsApril: 31 ascents
- May: 43 ascentsMay: 43 ascents
- June: 18 ascentsJune: 18 ascents
- July: 27 ascentsJuly: 27 ascents
- August: 8 ascentsAugust: 8 ascents
- September: 8 ascentsSeptember: 8 ascents
- October: 10 ascentsOctober: 10 ascents
- November: 2 ascentsNovember: 2 ascents
- December: 1 ascentDecember: 1 ascent
Cardinal direction
Areas (18)
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grades |
Routes |
Ratings |
|---|
|
Cathlynn
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
19
|
|
|
Rochers du Parc
(Sector)
|
|
|
0
|
|
|
Tonton Lulu
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
19
|
|
|
Grand Gendarme
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
14
|
|
|
Aiguillette (Président)
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
14
|
|
|
Grenouille
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
12
|
|
|
Nid d'Aigle
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Eau Fraiche (Grotte)
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
15
|
|
|
Tricou
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
15
|
|
|
Chimpanzodrome
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Revanche
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Jardins
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Echelle
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
17
|
|
|
Martine
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Toufou
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Lupi
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
Francinou
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
13
|
|
|
Rocher du Renard
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
12
|
|
History
Before the 1960s, Parisian mountaineers came here to train. Unknowingly, they started a small revolution by free climbing between the aid bolts (a style which they called "le libre saussois" or "the free saussois style"). Pythons are replaced by bolts, a practice climbers from that period will take to the many other French cliffs.During the 1970s, the difficulty increases rapidly, with more hard (for the time) routes being free climbed. First French 7a (l'Echelle a poissons), first 7b (l'Ange), 7c+ (Chimpanzodrome), 8a...
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8c
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3c
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4b
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4b
|
28 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
28 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
35 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
45 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
5c
|
25 m
|
2
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8b
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
40 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
40 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
55 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
6b
|
50 m
|
5
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
50 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
50 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
55 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
50 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2b
|
8 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2b
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
2
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
47.565934, 3.648512
DMS
47°33'57.4"N 3°38'54.6"E
UTM
31T 548780 5268261
w3w
///nutritional.important.thickset
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
2h south of Paris in the Merry-sur-Yonne village (Bourgogne). From the car park, walk 2-5min. You can either abseil or walk down.
211
Rochers du Parc
(Sector)
0
Climbing style
Approach
<5 min
Maps and trails
User Questions