Many generations of climbers have contributed to the climbing history of this high tower with its compact, smooth surface. The first challenge, reaching the summit, had been achieved by throwing a rope over the top in 1909, but already a few years later, a now-famous duo of climbers Georg Vollrath and Toni Rockstroh made their way up the "Nordwand", traversing in from the uphill side. The direct line from the bottom, "Direkte Nordwand" was established 40 years later by Karl Thon, but in the meantime, the same ledge had been reached by Hans Teufel, climbing the fierce-looking and aptly named "Teufelsriss".
The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz.
In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.
The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz.
In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.
Seasonal closure | Saisonale Sperrung
This crag is currently closed. For more information, consult [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/). --- Dieser Fels ist aktuell gesperrt. Für weitere Informationen, siehe [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/).
This crag is currently closed. For more information, consult [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/). --- Dieser Fels ist aktuell gesperrt. Für weitere Informationen, siehe [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/).
Grades
UIAA
- 5: 1 route5: 1 route
- 6: 1 route6: 1 route
- 7-: 1 route7-: 1 route
- 7: 2 routes7: 2 routes
- 8-: 3 routes8-: 3 routes
- 8+: 1 route8+: 1 route
- 9-: 2 routes9-: 2 routes
- 9: 2 routes9: 2 routes
- 9+: 1 route9+: 1 route
- 10-: 4 routes10-: 4 routes
- 11-: 2 routes11-: 2 routes
- 11: 3 routes11: 3 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 3 ascentsJanuary: 3 ascents
- February: 0 ascentsFebruary: 0 ascents
- March: 0 ascentsMarch: 0 ascents
- April: 15 ascentsApril: 15 ascents
- May: 3 ascentsMay: 3 ascents
- June: 2 ascentsJune: 2 ascents
- July: 15 ascentsJuly: 15 ascents
- August: 11 ascentsAugust: 11 ascents
- September: 9 ascentsSeptember: 9 ascents
- October: 7 ascentsOctober: 7 ascents
- November: 0 ascentsNovember: 0 ascents
- December: 17 ascentsDecember: 17 ascents
Cardinal direction
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Einstiege im oberen Teil
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
11-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
11
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
11
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
11
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
11-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
16 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
7-
|
35 m
|
3
|
–
|
|
|
Einstiege am Fuß des Turms
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9-
|
10 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
10 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
35 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
10-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9
|
15 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9+
|
15 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
10-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
9-
|
18 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
10-
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
10-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8-
|
15 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
Coordinates
DD
49.869460, 11.134990
DMS
49°52'10.1"N 11°08'06.0"E
UTM
32U 653416 5526302
w3w
///impasses.rocked.adding
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left; after a few meters, a steep path on the right will lead you to the bottom of the crag. Alternatively, you can follow the road further to a junction, turn right and right again after a few meters for a gentler approach.
GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940
GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940
Climbing style
Approach
Gentle
5-10 min
Maps and trails

User Questions