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Crag Crag · Franconian Switzerland

Rotenstein

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theCrag Verified partner 
  • Photo: theCrag
Many generations of climbers have contributed to the climbing history of this high tower with its compact, smooth surface. The first challenge, reaching the summit, had been achieved by throwing a rope over the top in 1909, but already a few years later, a now-famous duo of climbers Georg Vollrath and Toni Rockstroh made their way up the "Nordwand", traversing in from the uphill side. The direct line from the bottom, "Direkte Nordwand" was established 40 years later by Karl Thon, but in the meantime, the same ledge had been reached by Hans Teufel, climbing the fierce-looking and aptly named "Teufelsriss".
The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz.
In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.
Seasonal closure | Saisonale Sperrung
This crag is currently closed. For more information, consult [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/). --- Dieser Fels ist aktuell gesperrt. Für weitere Informationen, siehe [IG Klettern – Aktuelle Sperrungen](https://ig-klettern.org/naturschutz/aktuelle-sperrungen/).
Grades
UIAA
  1. 5: 1 route
    5: 1 route
  2. 6: 1 route
    6: 1 route
  3. 7-: 1 route
    7-: 1 route
  4. 7: 2 routes
    7: 2 routes
  5. 8-: 3 routes
    8-: 3 routes
  6. 8+: 1 route
    8+: 1 route
  7. 9-: 2 routes
    9-: 2 routes
  8. 9: 2 routes
    9: 2 routes
  9. 9+: 1 route
    9+: 1 route
  10. 10-: 4 routes
    10-: 4 routes
  11. 11-: 2 routes
    11-: 2 routes
  12. 11: 3 routes
    11: 3 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 3 ascents
    January: 3 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 0 ascents
    March: 0 ascents
  4. April: 15 ascents
    April: 15 ascents
  5. May: 3 ascents
    May: 3 ascents
  6. June: 2 ascents
    June: 2 ascents
  7. July: 15 ascents
    July: 15 ascents
  8. August: 11 ascents
    August: 11 ascents
  9. September: 9 ascents
    September: 9 ascents
  10. October: 7 ascents
    October: 7 ascents
  11. November: 0 ascents
    November: 0 ascents
  12. December: 17 ascents
    December: 17 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Vertical Greasy Closed
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Always shady
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Einstiege im oberen Teil
Sport climbing
–
0
0
Sport climbing
11-
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
11
18 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
11
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
11
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
11-
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8+
16 m
–
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5
20 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Alpine Climbing
7-
35 m
3
–
No ratings (yet)
Einstiege am Fuß des Turms
Sport climbing
–
0
0
Sport climbing
9-
10 m
1
2
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7
10 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8-
10 m
1
2
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6
35 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
10-
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9
15 m
1
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9+
15 m
1
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
10-
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
9-
18 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7
18 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
10-
18 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
10-
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8-
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
8-
15 m
–
2
No ratings (yet)

Coordinates

DD
49.869460, 11.134990
DMS
49°52'10.1"N 11°08'06.0"E
UTM
32U 653416 5526302
w3w 
///impasses.rocked.adding
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

Approach

Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left; after a few meters, a steep path on the right will lead you to the bottom of the crag. Alternatively, you can follow the road further to a junction, turn right and right again after a few meters for a gentler approach.
GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940

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