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Crag

Rotenstein

Crag · Fränkische Schweiz
Responsible for this content
theCrag
  • Photo: theCrag
Many generations of climbers have contributed to the climbing history of this high tower with its compact, smooth surface. The first challenge, reaching the summit, had been achieved by throwing a rope over the top in 1909, but already a few years later, a now-famous duo of climbers Georg Vollrath and Toni Rockstroh made their way up the "Nordwand", traversing in from the uphill side. The direct line from the bottom, "Direkte Nordwand" was established 40 years later by Karl Thon, but in the meantime, the same ledge had been reached by Hans Teufel, climbing the fierce-looking and aptly named "Teufelsriss". The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz. In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.
Grades
UIAA
  1. V: 1 route
    V: 1 route
  2. VI: 1 route
    VI: 1 route
  3. VII-: 1 route
    VII-: 1 route
  4. VII: 2 routes
    VII: 2 routes
  5. VIII-: 3 routes
    VIII-: 3 routes
  6. VIII+: 1 route
    VIII+: 1 route
  7. IX-: 2 routes
    IX-: 2 routes
  8. IX: 2 routes
    IX: 2 routes
  9. IX+: 1 route
    IX+: 1 route
  10. X-: 4 routes
    X-: 4 routes
  11. XI-: 2 routes
    XI-: 2 routes
  12. XI: 3 routes
    XI: 3 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 3 ascents
    January: 3 ascents
  2. February: 0 ascents
    February: 0 ascents
  3. March: 0 ascents
    March: 0 ascents
  4. April: 13 ascents
    April: 13 ascents
  5. May: 1 ascent
    May: 1 ascent
  6. June: 1 ascent
    June: 1 ascent
  7. July: 15 ascents
    July: 15 ascents
  8. August: 8 ascents
    August: 8 ascents
  9. September: 2 ascents
    September: 2 ascents
  10. October: 7 ascents
    October: 7 ascents
  11. November: 0 ascents
    November: 0 ascents
  12. December: 17 ascents
    December: 17 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Vertical Greasy
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Always shady
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
XI-
Sport climbing
XI
18 m
1
Sport climbing
XI
15 m
1
Sport climbing
XI
Sport climbing
XI-
Sport climbing
IX
Sport climbing
VIII+
16 m
3
Sport climbing
V
20 m
Alpine Climbing
VII-
35 m
3
Sport climbing
0
0
Sport climbing
IX-
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
VII
10 m
Sport climbing
VIII-
10 m
1
2
Sport climbing
VI
35 m
Sport climbing
X-
Sport climbing
IX
15 m
1
3
Sport climbing
IX+
15 m
1
4
Sport climbing
X-
Sport climbing
IX-
Sport climbing
VII
18 m
Sport climbing
X-
18 m
Sport climbing
X-
Sport climbing
VIII-
15 m
1
Sport climbing
VIII-
15 m
2

Coordinates

DD
49.869460, 11.134993
DMS
49°52'10.1"N 11°08'06.0"E
UTM
32U 653416 5526302
w3w 
///impasses.rocked.adding
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Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Access

Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left; after a few meters, a steep path on the right will lead you to the bottom of the crag. Alternatively, you can follow the road further to a junction, turn right and right again after a few meters for a gentler approach. GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940

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