MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
Crag
· Lofoten
-
Photo: theCrag
A much loved & vibrant climbing area with great bouldering and single pitch cragging scattered across the granite cliffs & boulders of Vågakallen´s shoreline.
Much of Lofoten´s free-spirited climbing soul emerged from the walls & campgrounds here, along with a big chunk of North Norwegian climbing history. Routes established by Hans Doseth in the late 70s are still testpieces with modern gear today & if you´re thinking you bagged yourself an FA, well, prepare to be disappointed. Arild Meyer almost certainly soloed it in his boots back when the origins of NordNorsk Klatreskole were been founded here.
While Air BnB slowly snuffs out Henningsvær´s spark, the spirit of Lofoten climbing remains free, wild & vibrant in Paradiest.
Well that’s the way it used to be- progress now has a large asphalt car park with timed parking (first 4 hours free) and a much smaller area for free camping with paid toilets and shower if it’s working and a maximum of 2 days stay.
Lofoten Reality, Vågarisset, Dosethrisset, Svenske Diedret, Butter Arms, Kyllingvingen, Kveldskosen, Morstadeggen, Mount Up, Campus Kalle, The Tao-Te Circuit
Much of Lofoten´s free-spirited climbing soul emerged from the walls & campgrounds here, along with a big chunk of North Norwegian climbing history. Routes established by Hans Doseth in the late 70s are still testpieces with modern gear today & if you´re thinking you bagged yourself an FA, well, prepare to be disappointed. Arild Meyer almost certainly soloed it in his boots back when the origins of NordNorsk Klatreskole were been founded here.
While Air BnB slowly snuffs out Henningsvær´s spark, the spirit of Lofoten climbing remains free, wild & vibrant in Paradiest.
Well that’s the way it used to be- progress now has a large asphalt car park with timed parking (first 4 hours free) and a much smaller area for free camping with paid toilets and shower if it’s working and a maximum of 2 days stay.
Grades
Norwegian
- 3: 1 route3: 1 route
- 3+: 4 routes3+: 4 routes
- 4: 4 routes4: 4 routes
- 4+: 5 routes4+: 5 routes
- 5-: 2 routes5-: 2 routes
- 5: 15 routes5: 15 routes
- 5+: 18 routes5+: 18 routes
- 6-: 6 routes6-: 6 routes
- 6: 5 routes6: 5 routes
- 6+: 11 routes6+: 11 routes
- 7-: 6 routes7-: 6 routes
- 7: 8 routes7: 8 routes
- 7+: 6 routes7+: 6 routes
- 8-: 2 routes8-: 2 routes
- 8+: 2 routes8+: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 0 ascentsJanuary: 0 ascents
- February: 0 ascentsFebruary: 0 ascents
- March: 0 ascentsMarch: 0 ascents
- April: 3 ascentsApril: 3 ascents
- May: 9 ascentsMay: 9 ascents
- June: 31 ascentsJune: 31 ascents
- July: 106 ascentsJuly: 106 ascents
- August: 66 ascentsAugust: 66 ascents
- September: 14 ascentsSeptember: 14 ascents
- October: 9 ascentsOctober: 9 ascents
- November: 0 ascentsNovember: 0 ascents
- December: 0 ascentsDecember: 0 ascents
Areas (12)
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grades |
Routes |
Ratings |
|---|
|
The boulders
(Boulder Area)
|
Bouldering
|
|
17
|
|
|
Vågarisset
(Cliff)
|
Mostly Alpine Climbing
|
|
3
|
|
|
Dammen
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Dosethrisset
(Crag)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
6
|
|
|
Draughella
(Boulder Area)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
Main Cliff
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
16
|
|
|
Svenske Diedret
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
9
|
|
|
Butter Arms
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Storsvaet
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
7
|
|
|
Living in Paradise
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
13
|
|
|
Demonstranten
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
5
|
|
|
Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
6
|
|
History
Some of the classic lines:Lofoten Reality, Vågarisset, Dosethrisset, Svenske Diedret, Butter Arms, Kyllingvingen, Kveldskosen, Morstadeggen, Mount Up, Campus Kalle, The Tao-Te Circuit
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
4C
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6C
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
5B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6A
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
6B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
4B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
4B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
5B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bouldering
|
4B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
8-
|
160 m
|
5
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
6+
|
70 m
|
2
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
10 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
5-
|
90 m
|
3
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
R 6
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
R 6-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Svenske Diedret
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
R 6
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
R 6-
|
24 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Lille Veggen
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8a+
|
–
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
30 m
|
1
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
30 m
|
1
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
27 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3+
|
27 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
–
|
1
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
68.181786, 14.318657
DMS
68°10'54.4"N 14°19'07.2"E
UTM
33W 471740 7563288
w3w
///retrieves.protest.king
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
From Kallebukta, walk South to the trail blocked by a chain (the old parking area). This is a dirt track that heads off to the right after the beach and befor the houses. Follow this South until you reach the inlet. From here, you´ll be able to see Svenske diedret on your right and Butter arms to your left.
The inlet´s roughly central to all the climbs, which are scattered out along the coast.
:parking: (68.189155, 14.336886)
The inlet´s roughly central to all the climbs, which are scattered out along the coast.
:parking: (68.189155, 14.336886)
108
Climbing style
Approach
45-60 min
Maps and trails
User Questions