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A kéktúrázás napja
Crag
· Franconian Switzerland
-
Photo: theCrag
The big "Napoleon" tower consists of two summits, the "Napoleonsblock" and the amazingly thin "Napoleonswand", separated by a plateau. Both summits are reachable via a few exquisite climbs in various grades; the "Block", for example, via the brilliant classic "Westriss", the fantastic "Freundschaftsweg" and the bold "Membrane"; the summit of the "Wand" is often reached by climbing up the "Plateau Normalweg" and choosing one of "Nordkante", "Ostwand" and "Westwand" from there, but there are also good lines from the ground, like the stunning "Südkante" and the bold "Direkte Ostwand".
Grades
UIAA
- 3: 1 route3: 1 route
- 4+: 3 routes4+: 3 routes
- 5: 2 routes5: 2 routes
- 5+: 2 routes5+: 2 routes
- 6: 1 route6: 1 route
- 6+: 4 routes6+: 4 routes
- 7-: 2 routes7-: 2 routes
- 7: 5 routes7: 5 routes
- 7+: 4 routes7+: 4 routes
- 8: 1 route8: 1 route
- 8+: 1 route8+: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 24 ascentsJanuary: 24 ascents
- February: 3 ascentsFebruary: 3 ascents
- March: 7 ascentsMarch: 7 ascents
- April: 39 ascentsApril: 39 ascents
- May: 39 ascentsMay: 39 ascents
- June: 37 ascentsJune: 37 ascents
- July: 34 ascentsJuly: 34 ascents
- August: 47 ascentsAugust: 47 ascents
- September: 16 ascentsSeptember: 16 ascents
- October: 13 ascentsOctober: 13 ascents
- November: 6 ascentsNovember: 6 ascents
- December: 0 ascentsDecember: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Westseite Napoleonsblock
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
7
|
30 m
|
3
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8+
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
26 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
25 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Plateauanstieg von Westen
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Westseite Napoleonswand
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
25 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
27 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Plateauanstiege von Osten
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7-
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4+
|
10 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Ostseite Napoleonswand
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
18 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5+
|
19 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
20 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
25 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Ostseite Napoleonsblock
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6+
|
8 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7
|
8 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6
|
8 m
|
–
|
1
|
|
|
Talseite
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
8
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
49.769673, 11.331255
DMS
49°46'10.8"N 11°19'52.5"E
UTM
32U 667863 5515630
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Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
In Gößweinstein, drive into "An der Martinswand" (diagonally opposite the petrol station); there is a parking lot for hikers at the end. From there, follow the hiking path north to reach the crag after a few meters.
Maps and trails
User Questions