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Crag Crag · Málaga

Mijas

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theCrag Verified partner 
  • Photo: theCrag
The small collection of climbs on the cliffs that fringe the tourist mecca of Mijas are minor when compared to the grand crags around El Chorro village to the north, however their proximity to the coast and ease of access, along with a more reliable climate has ensured that the climbs remain popular. Unfortunately, although offering spectacular views of the coast, and being within a few metres of the picture-postcard centre of Mijas, the setting of the climbs is fairly dismal. The Ravine is a dirty and at times smelly spot and the other sectors also have their own problems in the form of litter and dog mess. On the plus side the climbs themselves are on excellent solid rock and offer something to go at for most mid-grade climbers. In a better location the routes would be highly regarded.
https://www.cartowall.com/en/crag/mijas/overview
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
  1. 3c: 1 route
    3c: 1 route
  2. 4b: 3 routes
    4b: 3 routes
  3. 5b: 8 routes
    5b: 8 routes
  4. 5c: 25 routes
    5c: 25 routes
  5. 6a: 13 routes
    6a: 13 routes
  6. 6a+: 12 routes
    6a+: 12 routes
  7. 6b: 10 routes
    6b: 10 routes
  8. 6b+: 10 routes
    6b+: 10 routes
  9. 6c: 13 routes
    6c: 13 routes
  10. 6c+: 4 routes
    6c+: 4 routes
  11. 7a: 10 routes
    7a: 10 routes
  12. 7a+: 2 routes
    7a+: 2 routes
  13. 7b: 7 routes
    7b: 7 routes
  14. 7b+: 3 routes
    7b+: 3 routes
  15. 7c: 1 route
    7c: 1 route
  16. 7c+: 1 route
    7c+: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 46 ascents
    January: 46 ascents
  2. February: 76 ascents
    February: 76 ascents
  3. March: 21 ascents
    March: 21 ascents
  4. April: 99 ascents
    April: 99 ascents
  5. May: 76 ascents
    May: 76 ascents
  6. June: 73 ascents
    June: 73 ascents
  7. July: 50 ascents
    July: 50 ascents
  8. August: 102 ascents
    August: 102 ascents
  9. September: 68 ascents
    September: 68 ascents
  10. October: 63 ascents
    October: 63 ascents
  11. November: 187 ascents
    November: 187 ascents
  12. December: 71 ascents
    December: 71 ascents
Characteristics
Vertical Overhung Allowed Kid friendly Sheltered from wind
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Always shady

Areas (7)

Title
Climbing style
Grades
Routes
Ratings
La Curva (Sector)
Sport climbing
19
El Cesped (Sector)
Sport climbing
17
Los Burros (Sector)
Sport climbing
14
La Raja (Sector)
Mostly Sport climbing
44
El Callejon (Sector)
Sport climbing
26
Tajo Chico (Sector)
Sport climbing
7
La Raja Pequeña (Sector)
Sport climbing
3

History

A LITTLE HISTORY...
We are sure that the first ascents that were carried out in Mijas Pueblo, and more specifically on the rocky promontory located in the same town centre where the Bullring and Church are located, must date back several centuries. The ascents to collect honey, pigeon eggs or to carry out stonework in the area known as "la raja" must have been common in the daily life of our ancestors from Mijas.
However, if we focus on the sporting aspect, it was not until the end of the 70s when the first ascents were made in the area. The first flirtations on the walls in the area were merely training to be able to undertake larger undertakings later on. The main ascents were made on aid, or with a "traditional climbing" mentality. The use of self-protection material (wooden blocks, nuts and knots), and at most the occasional fixed nail, meant that the possibility of ascent was mainly focused on the area formerly known as the apple tree. We are referring to the wall located above what are today the stables of the famous donkey taxis of the town. You can still see some vestiges of this old material on the wall. The protagonists of this early period of whom we have references are the rope team made up of Paco and Lázaro, both from Fuengirola, from the Mainake Speleological-Hiking Society.
In the 80s
At the beginning of the 80s the main activity carried out in the area was the realization of vertical progression practices by the speleologists of the area, who made the first ascents under the concept of "free climbing". In addition to the widespread use of more modern protective materials, this led to the possibility of expanding the range of climbed walls. The use of SPIT, many of which are still in use, made it possible to open modern climbing routes (fixed anchors on the wall and a descent meeting, cables and cords initially, on the ground). The first of the fixed routes equipped in Mijas was the Via de Jesús in "La Raja". It was permanently equipped after the City Council closed the rubble and garbage dump that constituted the La Raja sector at that time. Later, the equipping of the La Curva, El Césped and La Raja Chica sectors began. This initiative was led by mountaineers/climbers such as Javier Cuevas, Miguel Trujillo, Jesús Cuenca, Carlos Pinto, "El Pesca", etc... Either on their own initiative, or under the protection of mountain and caving groups (Free Collective Mountain Associations and Mainake Speleo-Excursionist Society).
Already in the mid-80s the Metecafla Mountain Group came into the scene. Composed mainly of Nordic residents of the area, they brought about a good change of mentality, as well as the arrival of the first drill.
battery-powered routes in the area. From this moment on, the number of climbable routes began to grow rapidly and continuously, improving their safety by using large diameter bolts and expansion bolts, and belays with chains and lowering carabiners. At the same time, other bordering areas outside the urban area began to be equipped, such as "la piedra de los cuelgues" or the different sectors of "San Antón" in the Osunillas neighbourhood. At this time, Cristian Andersen, "Marlon", Borre, Cesar, Rafa and Quico joined the equipment of the routes, without ceasing to collaborate with those mentioned above.
In the 90s
The beginning of the 90s meant that the number of routes was approaching one hundred, the climbing school that Mijas represents took on a certain importance at a provincial and even national level, and in turn the presence of mountaineers became more continuous and they became noticed. This led to the first contacts and approaches with public bodies, at first with a negative character (we refer to the temporary prohibition that the Mijas Town Hall made of practicing mountain sports in the area in 1990) and later with a positive character, collaborating in the cleaning and maintenance of the area, supporting the dissemination of mountain sports in the area (1st Mountain Sports Dissemination Week 1994 organized by the Mountain Section Anexo P'arriba of the SE. Mainake) and subsidizing the development of expeditions to high summits by mountaineers and alpinists of the town.
Currently
From this time onwards and with a "sport climbing" mentality, the number of climbers and equippers (Torcuato Nieto, Miguel Cortes, Daniel Jiménez, Sergio Blanco, Enrique Cejas, Arranz and many others...) is increasing. The total number of sport climbing routes within the municipality of Mijas can be around 200, making the area one of the most popular in the entire Costa del Sol, and appearing in multiple specialised articles and sport climbing guides both nationally and internationally.
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
7c+
20 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a+
18 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
18 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
18 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Esto no lo sube ni James Bond
Sport climbing
6c
–
–
–
Sport climbing
6b
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Azótame con la goma del butano
Sport climbing
6b
–
–
–
Sport climbing
6c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
10 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
3c
10 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
16 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c+
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
17 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
7
Sport climbing
4b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
6
Sport climbing
4b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
4b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b+
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c+
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Pared Izquierda
Sport climbing
–
0
0
Sport climbing
6a+
8 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
8 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Alpine Climbing
5b
18 m
2
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
20 m
1
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
20 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
23 m
1
12
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
23 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
23 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
23 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
23 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
23 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
23 m
1
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
23 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c+
23 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Alpine Climbing
5c
32 m
2
–
No ratings (yet)
Alpine Climbing
6c
–
2
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Pared Derecha
Sport climbing
–
0
0
Sport climbing
6c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
5 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
6 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
6 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
8 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
10 m
1
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
10 m
1
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
21 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
10 m
1
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
9 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
25 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
25 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
25 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
25 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
25 m
1
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
26 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
26 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
26 m
1
12
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
26 m
1
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
16 m
–
9
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
12 m
1
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b+
22 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
22 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7c
22 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
22 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
22 m
1
12
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
20 m
–
15
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
20 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a+
20 m
–
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
20 m
–
11
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b+
20 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c+
20 m
1
10
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
18 m
–
8
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
18 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
18 m
1
7
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7b
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
1
Sport climbing
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
2
Sport climbing
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)
3
Sport climbing
–
1
–
No ratings (yet)

Coordinates

DD
36.592631, -4.639381
DMS
36°35'33.5"N 4°38'21.8"W
UTM
30S 353353 4050934
w3w 
///dates.airship.clusters
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

Approach

From Malaga, follow the A7 towards Marbella and after around 25km, turn off for Mijas (there are two exits so if you miss the first then take the next one which is actually a slightly better road). Both roads wind uphill to a petrol station and roundabout on the edge of Mijas. Go left following a sign for the centre and where the road forks take the right fork. The narrow road becomes cobbled and even narrower but keep on going until the road starts to drop down out of the centre and a one-way sign takes you right. Follow the one-way signs until the crags are visible up and on your left. Drive up to the crag and park carefully either on the road or take the track to the right below the cliff to more parking spots near to the donkey stables.

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