Bring some wires for additional protection, you can expect there to be bolts when it gets tough though. This is mostly the case because the crag offers more "natural lines" than many other crags in Franken. Expect some great corners, cracks but of course no shortage of pockets either!
Grades
UIAA
- III: 1 routeIII: 1 route
- IV-: 1 routeIV-: 1 route
- IV: 2 routesIV: 2 routes
- IV+: 3 routesIV+: 3 routes
- V-: 2 routesV-: 2 routes
- V: 9 routesV: 9 routes
- V+: 1 routeV+: 1 route
- VI-: 4 routesVI-: 4 routes
- VI: 9 routesVI: 9 routes
- VI+: 4 routesVI+: 4 routes
- VII-: 10 routesVII-: 10 routes
- VII: 4 routesVII: 4 routes
- VII+: 2 routesVII+: 2 routes
- VIII-: 4 routesVIII-: 4 routes
- VIII: 3 routesVIII: 3 routes
- VIII+: 4 routesVIII+: 4 routes
- IX-: 2 routesIX-: 2 routes
- IX: 2 routesIX: 2 routes
- X-: 1 routeX-: 1 route
- X: 1 routeX: 1 route
- XI+: 1 routeXI+: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 0 ascentsJanuary: 0 ascents
- February: 26 ascentsFebruary: 26 ascents
- March: 19 ascentsMarch: 19 ascents
- April: 39 ascentsApril: 39 ascents
- May: 177 ascentsMay: 177 ascents
- June: 146 ascentsJune: 146 ascents
- July: 88 ascentsJuly: 88 ascents
- August: 224 ascentsAugust: 224 ascents
- September: 144 ascentsSeptember: 144 ascents
- October: 33 ascentsOctober: 33 ascents
- November: 11 ascentsNovember: 11 ascents
- December: 0 ascentsDecember: 0 ascents
Cardinal direction









Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
---|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV-
|
10 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V-
|
10 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI-
|
8 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV
|
8 m
|
1
|
1
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII+
|
15 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII
|
15 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII-
|
13 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI+
|
13 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI-
|
13 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
13 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
18 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V+
|
13 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
III
|
15 m
|
1
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV+
|
15 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV+
|
15 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI-
|
15 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII
|
10 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII-
|
12 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
2 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
2 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
2 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
2 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Bouldering
|
5A
|
2 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII+
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
17 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI+
|
20 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII-
|
17 m
|
–
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
17 m
|
–
|
2
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI+
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
18 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
19 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII+
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII+
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
X-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
16 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
16 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
15 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
14 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII
|
12 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI-
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IX
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII-
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VII-
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
IV+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
12 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VIII-
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
VI
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
V-
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
Bouldering
|
8B
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
49.693014, 11.389995
DMS
49°41'34.9"N 11°23'24.0"E
UTM
32U 672364 5507241
w3w
///wooded.remedies.turns
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike
Access
Drive from Betzenstein to Leupoldstein, in L. turn left and when the road bends rightwards turn left again into a little sideroad next to the bus stop. Down this for a bit until you can see a parking spot on the right (and possibly a lot of cars). Park here (:parking:, 49.692868, 11.391619). Please drive slowly for the neighbours with kids and animals. Walk to the edge of the forest, some rock might peak out above. Creep into the left side which is southfacing or rightwards to the long NE face.
GPS: (49.69267, 11.39073)
GPS: (49.69267, 11.39073)
2D
3D
Maps and trails
Questions and answers
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