Labské údolí

:tv: [*Betom XIc* [Sport 8c face climb on the Left Bank]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz0bp6cC-jk&list=PLvwH4fCjQZ7iWrf0_y21XcOFRxd5Y6c_v) (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.
:tv: [*Otisk prstu IXc* [Sport 7b+ crack on the Left Bank]](https://youtu.be/lHA4FT8A5B8) (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.
:tv: [*ValleyWall Xb* [Sport 7c+/8a face climb on the Left Bank]](https://youtu.be/MavLjX947S0) (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2019.
:tv: [*BigWall VIIIc* [Trad 6b+ crack on the Right Bank]](https://youtu.be/Dj7sMa_eQiE) (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2016.
:tv: [*Psáno do písku - Na břehu* [Written in the Sand - On the Bank]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zH5Z6PrDjE) (short film). Alternative.NOW, HUDYsport, 2019. (czech)

Ethics

1) Climbing is only allowed on dry rock. 2) No changing of the rock surface. 3) No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed. 4) No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock). 5) First ascents only after approval of the area administrator [Labske udoli first ascent rules](https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/397/066214.pdf?seek=1626873054) and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side. 6) Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

History

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.
#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used.
#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxon Switzerland, approximately by one point.
Climbing started in 1904 when the top of Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by German climbers and after WWII by Czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to a high performance direction. The trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but there is no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí the number one sport location in the Czech Republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!