Die Schartenflue markiert den Gipfel des Gempen. Wunderbar und unter uns Kletterern sehr beliebt ist der oft löchrige, von Sanduhren durchsetzte Kalk, der leider teilweise schon poliert ist, dann öfters trotzdem nicht rutschig ist. Besonders lohnenswert ist der Sektor "Sandührliwand", jedoch sollte man den "TGV" Sektor nicht vergessen. Am Wochenende kann es hier auch mal etwas voller werden. Da die Schartenfluh hoch über dem Tal liegt, hat man – sofern man nicht Routen im Schatten der Buchen ausgesucht hat – hier maximal lange Sonne und auch einen tollen Sonnenuntergang.
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
- 2a+: 1 route2a+: 1 route
- 3a+: 4 routes3a+: 4 routes
- 4a: 3 routes4a: 3 routes
- 4b: 1 route4b: 1 route
- 4c: 4 routes4c: 4 routes
- 5a: 8 routes5a: 8 routes
- 5b: 7 routes5b: 7 routes
- 5b+: 1 route5b+: 1 route
- 5c: 12 routes5c: 12 routes
- 5c+: 8 routes5c+: 8 routes
- 6a: 22 routes6a: 22 routes
- 6a+: 15 routes6a+: 15 routes
- 6b: 16 routes6b: 16 routes
- 6b+: 14 routes6b+: 14 routes
- 6c: 15 routes6c: 15 routes
- 6c+: 4 routes6c+: 4 routes
- 7a: 10 routes7a: 10 routes
- 7a+: 8 routes7a+: 8 routes
- 7b: 6 routes7b: 6 routes
- 7b+: 5 routes7b+: 5 routes
- 7c: 1 route7c: 1 route
- 7c+: 2 routes7c+: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 53 ascentsJanuary: 53 ascents
- February: 154 ascentsFebruary: 154 ascents
- March: 260 ascentsMarch: 260 ascents
- April: 453 ascentsApril: 453 ascents
- May: 440 ascentsMay: 440 ascents
- June: 348 ascentsJune: 348 ascents
- July: 412 ascentsJuly: 412 ascents
- August: 275 ascentsAugust: 275 ascents
- September: 472 ascentsSeptember: 472 ascents
- October: 278 ascentsOctober: 278 ascents
- November: 259 ascentsNovember: 259 ascents
- December: 85 ascentsDecember: 85 ascents
Cardinal direction
Areas (6)
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grades |
Routes |
Ratings |
|---|
|
Ostgruppe
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
35
|
|
|
Ziegenrücken
(Cliff)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
27
|
|
|
Sandührliwand
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
38
|
|
|
TGV
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
34
|
|
|
Dr Chnächt
(Sector)
|
Sport climbing
|
|
10
|
|
|
Gempenpfeiler
(Sector)
|
Mostly Sport climbing
|
|
28
|
|
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Dr Chnächt
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
15 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
15 m
|
1
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
1
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
–
|
1
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
17 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
17 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4a
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
12 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
12 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
–
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
11 m
|
1
|
3
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
11 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
11 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
2
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
8 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
3
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
West
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4c
|
12 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
15 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
4a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b+
|
15 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Ost
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
23 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
19 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
19 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
19 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
21 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
21 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
19 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
13 m
|
–
|
5
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
13 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
12 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
20 m
|
–
|
8
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
13 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
15 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
15 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
17 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
15 m
|
–
|
7
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
9 m
|
1
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
16 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
22 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
22 m
|
1
|
11
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
20 m
|
–
|
10
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
6
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
30 m
|
–
|
14
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
11
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
25 m
|
–
|
11
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
25 m
|
–
|
10
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5b
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Bloc Links
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Bloc Détaché
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Floh
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Hrana
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Viva Hana
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Weberknecht
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Ohne Titel
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
15 m
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Schlund
|
Sport climbing
|
5a
|
15 m
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Linkes Buchenwändli
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
15 m
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Rechtes Buchenwändli
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
15 m
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Cannabis
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
17 m
|
–
|
9
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c+
|
21 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
17 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Gempenpfeiler
|
Sport climbing
|
–
|
0
|
0
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
25 m
|
–
|
10
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
24 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
25 m
|
–
|
11
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
25 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7c+
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
30 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
28 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
10 m
|
–
|
4
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
36 m
|
–
|
12
|
|
|
Alpine Climbing
|
6c
|
35 m
|
2
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
5c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
35 m
|
–
|
13
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
36 m
|
–
|
14
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
SwissGrid
2'615'658E 1'258'619N
DD
47.478157, 7.646347
DMS
47°28'41.4"N 7°38'46.8"E
UTM
32T 398010 5259190
w3w
///performed.charge.insert
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
Bitte den (:parking:, 47.4777197, 7.6517495 ) und in CH1903+ *738 M 2 616 064/ 1 258 578* nutzen, der 300 m östlich der Bärgbeiz Gempenturm liegt (deren Parkplätze sind Kunden vorbehalten). Es hat zwei Zustiege. Der erste/östliche geht nach 180 m vom Parkplatz nach links/Süden runter, also die zweite Treppe, und nach knapp 5 min steht man vor den ersten Routen der "Ostgruppe". Zum zweiten/westlichen geht man rechts an Gasthaus vorbei, nimmt 100m später an der Gabelung den linken Abzweig, steigt die Felswand in einer Linkskurve und Treppe hinab.
172
34
Dr Chnächt
(Sector)
10
Climbing style
Approach
Gentle
<5 min
5-10 min
10-20 min
Maps and trails

User Questions