Routes mainly 15-22m in length and generally high quality. Mainly best for mid 6's up to 7b. High-quality gear [ie bolts] and all routes have lower offs. Gets sun till lunchtime. Mainly tidal but some routes available at any tide. As with any north east sea cliff, especially ones with caves, the routes can be greasy in humid weather though the more open routes and those above the tidal zone are often climbable.
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
- 6a: 1 route6a: 1 route
- 6a+: 2 routes6a+: 2 routes
- 6b: 4 routes6b: 4 routes
- 6b+: 1 route6b+: 1 route
- 6c: 5 routes6c: 5 routes
- 6c+: 3 routes6c+: 3 routes
- 7a: 4 routes7a: 4 routes
- 7a+: 1 route7a+: 1 route
- 7b: 5 routes7b: 5 routes
- 7b+: 2 routes7b+: 2 routes
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
16 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
16 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
15 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b+
|
16 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
16 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
18 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b+
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
22 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
8 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7b
|
11 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
7a+
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
13 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
13 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a+
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6a
|
20 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c+
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6c
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
|
Sport climbing
|
6b
|
14 m
|
1
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
OS Grid
NO 71539 53872
DD
56.675735, -2.466074
DMS
56°40'32.6"N 2°27'57.9"W
UTM
30V 532716 6281418
w3w
///washroom.stall.upcoming
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
Park on the minor road leading to Usan just beyond a white gate. Follow the track down under the rail bridge to the small clifftop graveyard. Take the steep and slippy (after rain) path down the south side of the Rock and then go through the first cave to access the east face.
At high tides when the through cave is awash then it is possible to access the crag by walking north from the graveyard along the field edge. At the north end of the bay a path leads down the grassy slope to the pebble beach. Don't be tempted down the gully which flanks the rock to the immediate north, it is wet and very unpleasant.
This approach also gives the best view of the "elephant" !
At high tides when the through cave is awash then it is possible to access the crag by walking north from the graveyard along the field edge. At the north end of the bay a path leads down the grassy slope to the pebble beach. Don't be tempted down the gully which flanks the rock to the immediate north, it is wet and very unpleasant.
This approach also gives the best view of the "elephant" !
Maps and trails

User Questions