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Crag Crag · Mallorca

Cala Bota

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theCrag Verified partner 
  • Photo: theCrag
:es: La bahía de Cala Bota atrae con la mejor roca y una playa de ensueño. Desde el verano de 2018 hay un nuevo jardín de escalada para escaladores principiantes y avanzados en la costa este de Mallorca. 37 rutas variadas con dificultad de 3 a 7a y de 15 a 20 metros de longitud, todas bien aseguradas, te están esperando. La idea se les ocurrió a los desarrolladores Kerstin y Armin Helbach en un bote que se dirigía a un lugar de aguas profundas en solitario. Les llamó la atención el largo muro y la roca perfecta. En el transcurso de la temporada de invierno 2017/2018, los dos abrieron la pared de piedra caliza directamente sobre el mar. Todos los ganchos son de acero inoxidable Bühler y las distancias se mantienen deliberadamente fáciles de usar.
La mitad de las rutas están orientadas al sureste y, por lo tanto, están sombreadas por la tarde. Esto hace que la pared, a diferencia de la cercana Cala Magraner, sea un lugar perfecto para la escalada deportiva en verano. El acceso (justo arriba de las rutas) es una caminata de 20 minutos por un camino público. Tienes que bajar unos metros muy fácilmente para llegar a las entradas, pero esto es fácilmente factible. Una amplia banda en la base del muro permite un fácil y seguro acceso a las vías. De esta franja, sin embargo, se adentra unos diez metros en el mar en forma de bloques. Por lo tanto, el área es solo parcialmente adecuada para familias con niños pequeños. Pero a solo unos cientos de metros, una hermosa playa lo invita a relajarse y nadar.
Todos los costos de material para el desarrollo corrieron a cargo de escaladores de todo el mundo. Cada uno de ellos patrocinó una ruta completa individualmente o en equipo y se les permitió dar su nombre a la línea. Una experiencia especial fue el desarrollo conjunto de Elmo Love (5c) con Ramin AlHarthi, el fundador del primer (y único) club de escalada de Arabia Saudita.
Esta forma de financiación para una remodelación importante ha sido un gran éxito y se recomienda encarecidamente imitarla. Kerstin y Armin Helbach se habían ganado el acto de fe necesario para la financiación de este perno durante la renovación y ampliación del jardín de escalada de Sa Mola, cerca de Felanitx.
Debido a la ubicación especial del jardín de escalada en una reserva natural de propiedad privada, se debe dar gran importancia a la conservación de la naturaleza. La acampada, el fuego, la música y la basura no tienen cabida aquí. Para evitar que los costosos deflectores se desgasten demasiado rápido, también pedimos que las cuerdas superiores solo se instalen con su propio material, es decir, destornilladores.
:gb: The bay of Cala Bota attracts with the best rock and a dream beach. Since the summer of 2018 there has been a new climbing garden for beginners and advanced climbers on Mallorca's east coast. 37 varied routes with difficulty from 3 to 7a and 15 to 20 meters in length, all well secured, are waiting for you. The idea came to the developers Kerstin and Armin Helbach on a boat on their way to a deep water soloing spot. They were struck by the long wall and the perfect rock. In the course of the 2017/2018 winter season, the two then opened up the limestone wall directly above the sea. All bolts are bonded stainless steel Bühler and the distances are deliberately kept userfriendly.
Half of the routes face south-east and are therefore shaded in the afternoon (shade comes in around 2pm). This makes the wall, unlike the nearby Cala Magraner, a perfect afternoon sport climbing spot for the summer. Access (to just above the routes) is a 20 minute walk on a public path. You have to climb down a few meters very easily to get to the route starts, but this is easily doable. A wide band at the base of the wall allows easy and safe access to the routes. From this band, however, it goes down about ten meters into the sea in a blocky manner. The area is therefore only partially suitable for families with small children. But only a few hundred meters away, a beautiful beach invites you to linger and swim.
All material costs for the development were borne by climbing travelers from all over the world. They each sponsored a complete route individually or as a team and were allowed to give the line its name. A special experience was the joint development of Elmo Love (5c) with Ramin AlHarthi, the founder of the first (and only) Saudi Arabian climbing club.
This form of funding for a major redevelopment has been a great success and imitation is highly recommended. Kerstin and Armin Helbach had earned the necessary leap of faith for this bolt funding during the renovation and expansion of the Sa Mola climbing garden near Felanitx.
Due to the special location of the climbing garden in a privately owned nature reserve, great importance should be attached to nature conservation. Camping, fire, music and rubbish have no place here. In order to protect the expensive anchors from wearing through too quickly, we also ask that top ropes only be set up with your own material.
Picturesque crag above the sea with nice, but relatively short routes on limestone rock with big variances of roughness, color, solidity, amount and size of holes. Due to the special location of the crag in a privately owned nature reserve, great importance should be attached to nature conservation. The grades of all routes are written on the rock at the base of each climb.
The right parts of the crag receive shadow in the afternoon and due to the proximity to the sea there is often a fresh breeze blowing. Unluckily, it's not straightforward to change over to the beach of Cala Bota, this requires some scrambling down the ledge or a longer walk (see: approach). Not really kid's friendly, but it's ok. The starting ledge is wide and comfortable, but falls off to the sea for about 20m.
[Topo](https://www.outdoor-magazin.com/klettern/mallorca-neue-klettergebiete/).
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
  1. 3a+: 2 routes
    3a+: 2 routes
  2. 3c: 1 route
    3c: 1 route
  3. 4a: 1 route
    4a: 1 route
  4. 4a+: 3 routes
    4a+: 3 routes
  5. 5a: 1 route
    5a: 1 route
  6. 5b: 1 route
    5b: 1 route
  7. 5b+: 1 route
    5b+: 1 route
  8. 5c: 6 routes
    5c: 6 routes
  9. 5c+: 1 route
    5c+: 1 route
  10. 6a: 3 routes
    6a: 3 routes
  11. 6a+: 6 routes
    6a+: 6 routes
  12. 6b: 4 routes
    6b: 4 routes
  13. 6b+: 3 routes
    6b+: 3 routes
  14. 6c: 1 route
    6c: 1 route
  15. 7a: 2 routes
    7a: 2 routes
Most popular time of the year for climbing
  1. January: 52 ascents
    January: 52 ascents
  2. February: 88 ascents
    February: 88 ascents
  3. March: 95 ascents
    March: 95 ascents
  4. April: 91 ascents
    April: 91 ascents
  5. May: 47 ascents
    May: 47 ascents
  6. June: 38 ascents
    June: 38 ascents
  7. July: 11 ascents
    July: 11 ascents
  8. August: 9 ascents
    August: 9 ascents
  9. September: 17 ascents
    September: 17 ascents
  10. October: 65 ascents
    October: 65 ascents
  11. November: 63 ascents
    November: 63 ascents
  12. December: 51 ascents
    December: 51 ascents
Cardinal direction
NESW
Characteristics
Tolerated No camping No fires No dogs Not kid friendly Windy
Sunniest time of the day
Morning
Noon
Afternoon
Rock type
Limestone

Ethics

* No music! * Leave no trace! * Don't toprope on fixed gear! Use your own quickdraws or biners!

History

2018 established by the [Camperhof team - Kerstin und Armin Helbach )(http://klettern-mallorca.com/). Some description (DE) and a photo topo at [outdoor-magazin.com (2018, see 2nd half)](https://www.outdoor-magazin.com/klettern/mallorca-neue-klettergebiete/)
Type
Title
Climbing style
Grade
Length
Pitches
Bolts
Ratings
Sport climbing
4a
10 m
1
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
3c
10 m
1
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
3
7 m
1
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
3
7 m
1
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c+
12 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b+
10 m
–
2
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
10 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
12 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
12 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
12 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
12 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
12 m
–
6
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
7a
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
11 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
13 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
12 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5a
12 m
1
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
12 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b+
12 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
13 m
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a+
15 m
1
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
4
10 m
1
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
12 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5b
12 m
–
4
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6a
10 m
–
3
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6b
13 m
–
5
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
6c
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
4
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
4
–
–
–
No ratings (yet)
Sport climbing
5c
7 m
–
3
No ratings (yet)

Coordinates

DD
39.475262, 3.288055
DMS
39°28'30.9"N 3°17'17.0"E
UTM
31S 524775 4369558
w3w 
///reconstructed.scrubby.projected
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

Approach

(:parking:,39.47736,3.27238)
(:mount_fuji:,39.4751106,3.2868855)
:es: Desde la Ma-4014 Portocolom dirección Portochristo desviarse hacia Cales de Mallorca. Después de 2,1 km, aparcar a la izquierda en una curva a la derecha (39.4773911, 3.2727154). Siga el ancho camino de grava. Pasa por alto la puerta cerrada a la derecha. La pendiente conduce en curvas a Cala Magraner (3 km). Después de un kilómetro, en un giro a la derecha, tome el depósito más estrecho de frente. (El otro camino, ligeramente cuesta abajo a la derecha, lleva a la playa de Cala Bota). Después de 500 metros, tome el camino más angosto (incluso) de frente. Llegado al acantilado (arriba de las rutas) sin camino, gira a la derecha y después de unos 100 metros encuentra el descenso fácil hacia la cómoda cornisa a mitad del acantilado. Allí podéis ver la playa de Cala Bota a la derecha. Yendo a la izquierda se llega a las primeras rutas a los pocos metros.
:gb: From the Ma-4014 Portocolom direction Portochristo turn to Cales de Mallorca. After 2.1 km, park on the left in a right-hand curve (39.4773911,3.2727154). Follow the wide gravel road eastwards for 150m. Bypass the locked gate on the right. After 1.4km, in a left turn (3km to Cala Magraner) take the narrower path straight ahead. (The other path, slightly downhill to the right, leads to Cala Bota beach). After 500 meters take the (even) narrower path straight ahead. Arrived at the cliff (above the routes) without a path, turn right and after about 100 meters find the easy descent onto the comfortable ledge halfway up the cliff. There you can see the beach of Cala Bota on the right. Going to the left you reach the first routes after a few meters. Total 25min. See map.

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Climbing style
Sport climbing
Approach
Climb in
20-30 min
Descent
Rap off
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