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Kéktúra
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A kéktúrázás napja
Crag
· Mallorca
-
Photo: theCrag
Discovered a year or so after the development of Cova del Diablo, Cala Varques offers a slightly less intimidating alternative to Diablo's taller cliffs. The rock is generally very solid and gives a variety of features, including stalactites, arches and some rather shapely caves. There are four main areas at Barques. The first is known simply as 'Cova' - a stunning stalactite cave around fourteen metres high. Further along the cliff are two more caves known as the Metrosexual Area and the Snatch Area. Both of these crags are connected by a giant grotto which can be accessed from the top of the cliff. The final feature here is a little further around the headland and is known as the Tarantino Cave - this is the tallest cliff in the vicinity, and houses some of the hardest routes on the island.
Grades
Climbing difficulty (French)
- 6a+: 5 routes6a+: 5 routes
- 6b: 5 routes6b: 5 routes
- 6b+: 1 route6b+: 1 route
- 6c: 2 routes6c: 2 routes
- 6c+: 3 routes6c+: 3 routes
- 7a: 9 routes7a: 9 routes
- 7a+: 5 routes7a+: 5 routes
- 7b: 8 routes7b: 8 routes
- 7b+: 4 routes7b+: 4 routes
- 7c: 4 routes7c: 4 routes
- 8a: 6 routes8a: 6 routes
- 8a+: 2 routes8a+: 2 routes
- 8b: 1 route8b: 1 route
Most popular time of the year for climbing
- January: 24 ascentsJanuary: 24 ascents
- February: 0 ascentsFebruary: 0 ascents
- March: 0 ascentsMarch: 0 ascents
- April: 15 ascentsApril: 15 ascents
- May: 7 ascentsMay: 7 ascents
- June: 9 ascentsJune: 9 ascents
- July: 47 ascentsJuly: 47 ascents
- August: 42 ascentsAugust: 42 ascents
- September: 105 ascentsSeptember: 105 ascents
- October: 69 ascentsOctober: 69 ascents
- November: 5 ascentsNovember: 5 ascents
- December: 0 ascentsDecember: 0 ascents
Areas (5)
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grades |
Routes |
Ratings |
|---|
|
Sa Cova
(Sector)
|
Deep water soloing
|
|
24
|
|
|
Metrosexual
(Sector)
|
Deep water soloing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Snatch
(Sector)
|
Deep water soloing
|
|
11
|
|
|
Tarantino Cave
(Sector)
|
Deep water soloing
|
|
8
|
|
|
Muscles Cave
(Sector)
|
Deep water soloing
|
|
1
|
|
History
Most routes here were put up by Klem Loskot, along with the Salomon team, local enthusiast Miquel Riera and U.S. convert Chris Sharma.
|
Type
|
Title
|
Climbing style |
Grade |
Length |
Pitches |
Bolts
|
Ratings |
|---|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6a+
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6a+
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b+
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b+
|
14 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b
|
90 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b
|
6 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7c
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6a+
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6c
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6c+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a+
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6a+
|
9 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a+
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8b
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
8a
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7c
|
15 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7c
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
6b
|
10 m
|
–
|
–
|
|
|
Deep water soloing
|
7a+
|
–
|
–
|
–
|
|
Coordinates
DD
39.501203, 3.299268
DMS
39°30'04.3"N 3°17'57.4"E
UTM
31S 525730 4372440
w3w
///triumphant.paprika.rural
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Approach
**The original approach, that started here [39.50245, 3.28931] is apparantly not longer an option. The gate is locked and parked cars seem to get towed.** Further, old info about this approach:
*"Park your car at the end of the dirt road. Depending on how busy the beach is, you'll have to park further away from the the start of the track... Walk through the chained gate and follow the track to the beach for 10-15min. The main cave (Cova) is on the left side of the beach and accessible by walking or swimming. For the other caves (Metrosexual and Snatch), keep walking an extra 5min through the bushes."*
Currently, the approach is as follows: Park here: [39.51296, 3.27841]. Then walk along the street in southeast direction for about 200m until you reach the dirt road leading towards the beach. Follow it to its end (1.5km). There, you can climb over the stone wall to the right and another stone wall left of it. After having climbed both walls walk towards the sea for a few meters alongside another wall until you can spot a gap in the fence above it which allows you to climb over that wall. from there it is only about 5min to the beach on an obvious trail. Make sure you cross three walls or you will find yourself fighting your way through brushes until you reach the coast while taking a huge detour While this looks quite shady, it appears to be the default access nowadays, tons of people use it (to get to the beach mainly, not just for DWS).
Currently, the approach is as follows: Park here: [39.51296, 3.27841]. Then walk along the street in southeast direction for about 200m until you reach the dirt road leading towards the beach. Follow it to its end (1.5km). There, you can climb over the stone wall to the right and another stone wall left of it. After having climbed both walls walk towards the sea for a few meters alongside another wall until you can spot a gap in the fence above it which allows you to climb over that wall. from there it is only about 5min to the beach on an obvious trail. Make sure you cross three walls or you will find yourself fighting your way through brushes until you reach the coast while taking a huge detour While this looks quite shady, it appears to be the default access nowadays, tons of people use it (to get to the beach mainly, not just for DWS).
Climbing style
Maps and trails
User Questions