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recommended route
Via Ferrata
· Hohe Tauern National Park Region
Säuleck South Wall Route
Hohe Tauern - die Nationalpark-Region in Kärnten Tourismus GmbH Verified partner
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Säuleck with south face via ferrata routePhoto: Andreas Kleinwächter, Hohe Tauern - die Nationalpark-Region in Kärnten Tourismus GmbH
One of the highest via ferratas in Austria! Long, impressive climbing route to a beautifully shaped 3,000-meter peak. Continuously very well secured, but without step pins, ladders, etc. - therefore technically demanding!
We recommend less experienced via ferrata climbers to undertake this route accompanied by a state-certified mountain guide!
The Mallnitz Info and Booking Center is available for organization at +43(0)4824-2700-40 or www.visitmoelltal.at!
Regarding the difficulty of the Säuleck via ferrata, opinions vary: originally rated "C" by the builder, rating proposals quickly rose to "E". Two circumstances are particularly noteworthy:
- The via ferrata in the core zone of the Hohe Tauern National Park was built without step pins or similar aids. Therefore, a clean foot technique is especially required. It is also often useful to use the natural holds on the rock. Anyone who only pulls themselves up on the steel cable will soon complain about tired upper arms!
- The via ferrata is located in a high alpine environment. The approach from the valley alone, with 1,300 meters of elevation gain, is a mountain tour in itself, which is why an overnight stay in the Arthur-von-Schmidhaus is highly recommended! Furthermore, factors such as altitude, weather, and personal fitness must be included in the tour planning.
Those who take this into account will find a wonderful via ferrata experience in magnificent surroundings!
Author’s recommendation
Overnight stay at the beautiful Arthur-von-Schmidhaus located by Lake Dösener!
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileTips and suggestions
Detailed description including topographic map at www.bergsteigen.at!
Roadbook
From the Dösental car park (paid) along the marked hiking trail to the Arthur-von-Schmidhaus. You then initially follow the normal route to Säuleck until the signposted junction to the via ferrata. Through rough blockwork directly to the start at a conspicuous slab ramp (to the right of a larger, partly debris-covered ramp, which is crossed further up).
The via ferrata essentially follows the south ridge up to a subpeak on the west ridge. Finally, directly on the airy west ridge right up to the summit cross.
Descent along the Säuleck normal route.
Public transport
Mallnitz is ideally accessible by train, with international express trains stopping at Mallnitz-Obervellach station every 2 hours.
By car: via the B106 (Mölltal federal road) to Obervellach, then 8 km on the B105 to Mallnitz.
Mallnitz hiking bus: Info and Booking Center Mallnitz at +43(0)4824-2700-40.
Directions
At Mallnitz station, turn off towards Dösental. Several switchbacks lead to the signposted National Park car park Dösental.Parking
National Park Car Park DösentalCoordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
In addition to the normal via ferrata equipment with harness, via ferrata set, and helmet, the usual high mountain equipment with rain and cold protection, hat, gloves. Sturdy mountain boots for ascent and descent!Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions