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Route The highest mountain in Austria from the south. © Markus StadlerPhoto: Markus Stadler, Rother Bergverlag
The Großglockner, as Austria's highest mountain, is the dream destination for many mountaineers. In summer, it is crowded like very few other peaks, and hair-raising scenes often unfold on its narrow summit ridge. But as a ski tour, it is becoming increasingly popular year by year, partly due to the improved equipment and ski technique of ski tourers, but certainly also partly due to the excellent Stüdl Hut. Therefore, similarly chaotic situations can arise on beautiful weekends during the ski tour season as in summer.
Those who want to avoid these should better plan this mountain on weekdays – which is not only safer but also much more relaxed. Although the ascent is often done as a long day tour, an overnight stay at the Stüdl Hut is recommended. This allows the 1900 meters of altitude difference to be comfortably divided over two days, and an early start offers the chance to reach the summit rocks before the large crowd. In particular, one should not miss the exceptionally good food at the hut.
The ascent is also often done as part of the so-called Glockner circuit, which includes a great descent over the Hofmannskees glacier down to the Pasterze and again switches to the south side via the Oberwalder Hut and Teufelskampkees glacier. The Franz-Josefs-Höhe is an option for the start and end of this small area crossing, which can be reached from about the beginning of May after the opening of the Großglockner High Alpine Road.
Ascent to the hut At the end of the large parking lot, a bridge leads left over the stream. Now follow the road upstream to a fork. Here we cross the stream again, ascend a steeper slope and keep left towards the Luckner Hut (closed in winter). We follow the valley a bit further north to a steep step. This is overcome on the left side of the stream. Further on, we follow the valley up to the Fanatscharte, where the Stüdl Hut is located.Ascent to the summit From the hut first a few meters down into the notch and traverse east until a climb to the Ködnitzkees glacier is possible on the left. Over the initially flat and relatively crevasse-free glacier, it goes north towards the spur of the south flank of the Kleinglockner. Before reaching the rocks, we keep right and reach a narrow glacier tongue that leads up in a cirque to the ridge. Upwards the slope becomes very steep and can be problematic in poor conditions; then we keep right at about 3300 m and climb over the partly secured rock
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