A scenically magnificent route. Mostly off-path and easy climbing up to UIAA II. Quite long as a day route.
An unusual, quite long route with a total of 5 three-thousanders. Only for experienced climbers.
Author’s recommendation
Overnight stay at the Bonn Matreier Hut is recommended.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Bonn-Matreier HütteSafety information
For weaker climbers, climbing equipment is recommended for the ascent to Eichham. An e-bike shortens the approach.
Roadbook
The day before, by bike from Virgen via Marin, the Schmiedler Alm to just above the large Nillalm. Further to the recommended Bonn-Matreier House and still up to Rauhkopf.
From the hut to Säulkopf. Down to Säulspitze, the final ascent leads over a beautiful ramp. Back to Säulkopf and down a ridge to the miserable remains of the Nillkees. Up between Hoher and Niedere Eichham and quite laboriously over the west flank to Niedere Eichham.
Back to Nillkees and again laboriously up to Eichhamscharte. First over the broad south ridge, then up over solid rock to Hoher Eichham. A rope is recommended for two or three spots. Magnificent panorama, the summit is not climbed very often.
Descent into the notch and briefly onto Kuhhaut, the fifth three-thousander of the day. Great views of the extremely brittle Wunspitze. Back into Eichhamscharte and a direct, quite steep descent to Sandboden. This takes place orographically right of the waterfall.
Andi, the competent hut warden of the Bonn Matreier House, provides really helpful information.
Säulkopf 3209m
Hocheichham 3371m
Kuhhaut 3190m
Directions
Via the Felbertauern road to Matrei in East Tyrol, turn into the Virgental, drive to Virgen.
Parking
If using a bike, you can park down by the federal road.
Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Mountaineering equipment including climbing gear - crampons depending on conditions
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions