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Map with accessPhoto: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
The hiking trails in this area are only sparsely marked – just sufficient in good visibility. During the descent from the Bocksteinscharte across alpine meadows, sometimes no path is visible – pay close attention to the markings!
Times: (pure walking times)
- Approach: 800 m ascent / 2:00 hrs (from the Fahbrücke 1050 m ascent / 2:45 hrs)
- Crossing: 350 m ascent / 2:00 hrs
- Descent: 1000 m descent / 2:00 hrs
- Total: 1150 m ascent / 6:00 hrs
Difficulty:
- Große Ohrenspitze: 1
- Kleine Ohrenspitze: 2 or T5
- Bockstein: Direct summit wall climbing difficulty 3 (one rope length) and 2.
The left bypass is marked and steep but not difficult.
Information status: July 2023
Author’s recommendation
● The crossing of the Zarspitzen (2+) is also possible from the Kristeinertal: from the nameless saddle (2590m) up to the Paterskopf, down the south ridge until you can cross eastwards through the cirque to the Zarschartl. Here begins the crossing of the Zarspitzen from east to west to the Paterskopf. Return to the saddle and along the approach back.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
The tour is very dangerous in wet conditions - steep grass and crags!
Roadbook
On the marked hiking trail towards Aleit / Sichelsee, after 10 minutes sharply turn right and on a small path to an alpine hut. From the hut, routeless diagonally right uphill over steep grass (direction east-northeast) into the broad nameless saddle (2590m) between Ohrenspitzen and Paterskopf.
Route:
From the saddle over a small subpeak to the Große Ohrenspitze (difficulty 1).
Continue along the ridge towards the Kleine Ohrenspitze (1 to 2). You almost always stay on the ridge edge or very close to it. Only the large red, pyramid-shaped tower must be bypassed on the left in very steep grass and rock terrain (delicate, risk of falling!), then as soon as possible back to the ridge and onto the Kleine Ohrenspitze.
[ Alternatively: Bypass this red tower on the right (north) on a ledge, up a short steep crack into a small notch (2) and then exposed via the sharp ridge (2+) directly onto the Kleine Ohrenspitze. See area guide “Villgratner Berge” in the literature reference. ]
Easily continue to the foot of the southeast wall of the Bockstein, where you meet the marking coming up from the Bocksteinsee. Here two options again:
a) Left around the summit structure, following the marking, and climb up the west flank to the summit (steep but easy).
b) Direct summit wall on the Bockstein (climbing difficulty 3, no pitons): from the southeast wall foot on a narrow grass ledge ascending slightly to the right around a blunt edge. Immediately behind, climb zigzag in a steep wall notch to the summit. 100 m, first a rope length 3, then 2.
Descent: (marked)
From the Bockstein west into a broad grassy saddle (approx. 2600m) and shortly further in the direction of Hochegg to the Bocksteinscharte (2634m). There left down (watch the junction!), past the Arnsteiger bivouac box (2600m), to the Kristeinerbach and into the Kristeinertal.
On the alpine meadows the path is sometimes not visible despite markings, so pay close attention to the red-white color markings!
Public transport
Train to Lienz or Mittewald an der Drau –
Bus to Assling / stop Assling-Vergein –
then 6.5 km on foot into the Kristeinertal to the end of the gravel road.
Directions
From Lienz on the B100 towards Sillian to Mittewald an der Drau. Turn there towards St. Justina and steeply uphill along the Kristeinbach to the highest point of the asphalt road (1385m). Here turn left into the Kristeinertal (signpost “Gölbnerhütte”) and continue on the gravel road 3.5 km to the Fahbrücke (1551m, parking lot). If allowed, drive another 3 km to the road end (1810m).
The gravel road is good, but due to some ground waves, a car with some ground clearance is advisable.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Available as a book in bookshops or as a free PDF on the internet.
Search in browser for “villgratner berge gebietsfuehrer gratis-pdf” (free registration and login at www.gipfeltreffen.at required).
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Mountain equipment with sturdy footwear. For the direct ascent to the Bockstein, a 50m rope, slings, and friends.Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions