Antelao 3,264 m

If you’re staying overnight at the Rifugio San Marco, hike along Trail 228 through a massive scree channel—which you’ll cross to the left further up—and follow the root-strewn, rugged forest trail up to the lodge. On Trail 228, you cross scree gullies with some ups and downs and reach the junction with Trail 229 via mountain pine groves. Alternatively, behind Rif. Scotter, follow the road to the hairpin turn and hike up the scree trail 229—partly through mountain pine groves—over many switchbacks to the junction with trail 228. We follow this trail to the right; it winds up the massive scree slope in several switchbacks and finally descends gently to Forcella Piccola. (A visible, somewhat exposed trail to the saddle left of the Bechi de Inposponda can also be used to reach Forcella Piccola without a return descent.) If you’re staying overnight at Rifugio Galassi, you’ll need to descend another 100HM to the east along trail 227 or on a slightly steeper route to the right of it.

Via Normale Monte Antelao from Forcella Piccola (1,150 HM): Head south on level ground toward the steep, mountain pine-covered rocky basin through which the Schrofensteig trail winds. Head left toward the huge scree cirque along a rugged grassy ridge. Following distinct trail marks, cross the scree cirque in a wide arc to the right, finally climbing steeply up to the uppermost rock outcrop. Cross a steep gully and scramble up the first rock slabs. Red markings now provide guidance. Short rock steps (Grade I to just under Grade II) alternate with exposed “walking terrain.” A short descent leads to the first narrow rock ledge, which is ascended northward. The banded rock face is then climbed southward over several steps to the ridge shoulder (cairn!) of La Bala.

Now traverse along a narrow crack in the slab to a longitudinal fissure leading into the lower Laste. Climb moderately steeply upward in the fissure or to the side of it. Winding its way between large boulders, the trail now ascends partly through scree and partly over rough slabs to a saddle. Here, you must scramble exposed over a boulder (II°) and then climb up a short chimney (II°) on the opposite side to reach the upper Laste. After a short scree path, you gradually ascend steeper and steeper using friction steps directly on the grippy slabs (caution: lots of loose scree!). You cross a sloping rock ledge; above it, the Laste becomes quite steep. With the help of a loose textile rope,

you

can negotiate the uppermost, very steep slabs.

Above this, a sand-covered slab leads to the rocky summit buttress. This can be climbed directly along the edge via a stepped chimney (II°) or bypassed on the east side via an exposed scree ledge. On the narrowing ridge, you reach a rock barrier; climb briefly to the right at its base. A red marker leads left into a stepped gully; at the end of the gully, a vertical rock step (II°) must be climbed with the aid of a rope loop. Beyond this, a loose textile rope helps you ascend steep scree to the secondary summit. Alternatively, you can leave the gully and follow a path (marked by cairns) to the left, reaching the secondary summit via easy rock steps. In a wide leftward arc, you can easily scramble across to the already visible summit cross of Antelao—either along the narrow summit ridge or, one step lower to the left, along a rock ledge

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A careful descent along the same route requires your full concentration once again.