Mohora circular route

Itinerary

• From Mohora railway station through Nagy-kő, follow the P trail for nearly 10 kilometers.
• After walking about 1 kilometer on an unmarked dirt road, we turn to the Cserhát green trails Z sign (to the right). 
• Follow the Cserhát green trail Z all the way through Cserháthaláp back to the Mohora railway station.

Detailed description of the route 

Mohora

We start our route from Mohora, a village typical of the peaceful atmosphere of the Cserhát villages, following the P trail. The settlement lies in the valley of the Feketevíz stream and has been inhabited since ancient times. Excavations have uncovered finds—pottery, bone, coal, and stone fragments, as well as flint blades—indicating traces of a prehistoric settlement. A special discovery is a thin Bronze Age bronze needle preserved in the National Museum, along with Celtic urns and Roman coins found in the area. Some theories suggest the village founders might have been Volga-region Ismaelites arriving with the Hungarian conquerors, probably originating from the Khazar Empire.

Among the settlement's famous historical buildings are the Mauks manor and the Tolnay house, both of outstanding cultural-historical value. Ilona Mauks, the twice wife of Kálmán Mikszáth, grew up here. The writer first married the Mohora girl as a young beginner, but as he could not support her, they divorced. Later, already a successful writer, they married again. Their second wedding took place in the Mohora Evangelical church, where the embroidered altar cover made by the bride and a copy of the marriage registry are still kept.

Opposite the Mauks house stands the former Tolnay manor, now functioning as a cultural center. Tolnay Klári, originally named Rózsika Tolnay, a prominent figure in Hungarian acting, grew up in this building. However, the memorial house presenting the artist's life and career is located at Kossuth street no. 1.

Leaving the main road, we soon reach the first sight of the hike, one of the village's iconic parts, the Dolinka wine cellar row, consisting of wine cellars and press houses. At the turn of the century, Mohora became famous for its wine, but the history of these "sanctuaries" carved into the sandstone dates back to the 1700s, and over the centuries the place has become a legendary meeting spot with a special atmosphere. Outside of events, the cellar row is closed, but the old stone cellars and cozy sitting benches and rustic seats emit a timeless and carefree atmosphere even off-season.

Forest plants

Leaving the cellar row behind, still following the P trail, we reach a heavily overgrown plateau, where traces of old orchards and abandoned vineyards can be discovered. The marked path is likely used by few, so some branches hang over the path, but the route is well traceable. After crossing an open area, we soon climb a steep hillside and reach the summit of Nagy-kő, which, at 360 meters high, is the highest point of the hike. On the north side of the hilltop, a spectacular rock sea and apparently piled large stones color the landscape.

After the summit, we begin to descend, passing through oak groves that give the Cserhát its name. The Turkey oak adapts well to drier soils with lower fertility, so as a winner of climate change, it increasingly plays an important economic and ecological role as a defining element of mid-mountain oak forests. Its dark green, leathery leaves and reddish cracked bark make it easily recognizable. Turkey oak acorns are an important food source for roe deer, wild boars, and other forest animals. Its wood is primarily used as firewood but was formerly also used for tanning leather with tannin extracted from oak galls. However, many native oak groves have now been replaced by acacia groves, which can also be observed descending into the valley.

Acacia tree, introduced to Europe from North America in the 17th century, is now one of Hungary’s most widespread tree species. Its fast growth, drought tolerance, and good quality durable wood give it significant economic importance. Products made from acacia wood, such as posts, furniture, and parquet floors, are known for their durability. Acacia honey also represents a significant value. However, acacia planting causes serious environmental drawbacks: as an invasive species, it displaces native plants, reduces biodiversity, and negatively changes soil composition due to its nitrogen-fixing capacity, thereby hindering the establishment of other plants. While its economic benefits are significant, from a conservation viewpoint, controlling the spread of acacia and preserving native ecosystems is crucial for sustainable forest management.

At the valley bottom, forest is replaced by hay meadows, which are dotted with purplish autumn crocus flowers during the deer rut season. The midpoint of the route is reached near Nógrádmarcal, at the Mixi fishing lake. The P trail takes a sharp turn here, heading south into the Csitári stream valley. Through more meadows, fields, acacia groves, and oak forests, we continue about 3 kilometers on the trail, then arrive at a hilltop opening from forest to wide fields. Turning right here onto an unmarked path, after just over 1 kilometer we continue on the path marked with Cserhát green trails Z shaped signs.

On meadows and fields

From here, the trail takes us mainly over fields and panoramic mountain meadows, where, with some luck, we may spot various wildlife, as the forest meadows are favored feeding grounds for roe deer and red deer.

At the end of the section undulating with picturesque meadows and hills, we catch sight of the houses of Cserháthaláp, but first we climb up to the Ördögoldal lookout, which looks like an enlarged version of the many hunting stands lined up so far. Even if the lookout is not notable for its height, it is definitely worth visiting because of the panorama: the village sprawls before us, with the rolling Cserhát hills in the background.

The history of Cserháthaláp dates back to the Árpád era, with once two separate settlements, Nagyhaláp and Kishaláp, located in the area: the former under the hill named Ördög-oldal, and the latter on the plain toward Terény. The two villages were finally united in 1905. The name Cserháthaláp is also preserved in literature: Kálmán Mikszáth’s novel "Saint Peter's Umbrella," translated into many languages, mentions the story of the burial of the teacher from Haláp.

In the heart of the village stands the Roman Catholic church, whose patrons are Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The late 18th-century main altar painting also depicts them.

We leave Cserháthaláp heading northeast, following the green trail Z, initially walking along the Main Street. At the junction, turning toward Magyarnándor, we walk briefly on asphalt, then turn right onto a dirt road beside the Feketevíz, leading us back to Mohora. Be cautious at the railway tracks here, as there is no traffic light at the crossing.