Circular route on the volcanic rim of High Börzsöny

Itinerary

• We hike on the K trail from the Nagy-Hideg-hegy tourist house to Csóványos.
• Along the P▲ signs, passing by Oltár-kő, we walk to the Rakodó saddle.
• We return to Nagy-Hideg-hegy on the K trail.

Detailed description of the hike

Nagy-Hideg-hegy: "snow covers it early and stays on for a long time"

Our country's perhaps most remote shelter, radiating an alpine atmosphere, was built on the side of the 865-meter-high peak. Inside, there is a restaurant, buffet, and restroom; an excellent place to take a break during hikes, but even better: to stay overnight. The multi-story house is a piece of Hungarian hiking history: its construction started in 1936 as an association effort (Tourists Inóci Society) and was completed in the 1940s. Fortunately, it has continuously operated as a tourist house since its opening, serving as reliable accommodation or a temporary refuge in every season. The mountain is also a center of domestic skiing (the country’s first ski lift was built here), with several runs serving those arriving with skis or sleds during snowy periods. The mountain’s name refers to a higher number of snowy days compared to the national average, as András Vályi described in his 1790 country description: "snow covers it early and stays on for a long time."

The terrace of the house offers a beautiful view, but be sure to walk up to the nearby crafted peak stone, as the landscape truly unfolds from there. The treeless, grassy summit offers a great panorama: toward the south, Magas-Tax and Inóc peak appear, we can see the ridges of the Southern Börzsöny, and across the Danube, the waves of the Visegrád Mountains and the bulges of Gerecse. Left of the Danube bend and Szentendre Island, Naszály appears, while to the north, the Csóványos and the Hollókő – Vár-bérc ridge section dominates the view.

Let's load up to Rakodó!

From the house, we start east along the contour trail on the National Blue Trail marked K. We leave the ski lift building (worth detouring to the top of the ski slope’s clearing, as a magnificent panorama opens onto Hangyás-bérc and the Csóványos – Magos-tető ridge behind it), and descend steeply next to the former ski jump. We arrive on gentler terrain at the Rakodó tourist trail junction, located at 779 meters. The name of the saddle is linked to logging. In the first half of the 20th century, accumulated timber was transported here onto the valley’s narrow-gauge railway for further shipping to Királyrét. Lumberjacks carried logs down with a unique tool, a human-pulled Romanian sled. Managing the loaded, heavy sleds was very hard work—it sometimes ran uncontrolled down the hillside, causing fatal accidents—and after unloading, the heavy structures had to be carried back up. The use of the Romanian sled is shown in the 'One and a Half Million Steps in Hungary' hiking film series, Börzsöny episode. From the saddle, we pass by a wooden cross erected in memory of Saint Stephen, then begin a strong climb through ancient, silvery-bearded beech forest. Atop the steep, crumbly, and sometimes slippery ascent, we reach the 851-meter conical summit of Égés Hill, where we can catch our breath while enjoying the opening view toward Nagy-Hideg-hegy. At the summit’s edge rises a characteristic crooked rock formation made of wood and stones of various sizes.

Along special rocks to the bandit farm

Due to erosion, pyroclastic breccia (unclassified volcanic debris) containing andesite rocks of varying diameters cemented by fine volcanic ash has been exposed. Similar whimsical-shaped smaller and larger towers and blocks are unique ornaments of Börzsöny, reminding us of volcanic activity 14-16 million years ago. They occur along and beneath the trail to Csóványos, and we encounter them several times during our hike. Moving onward, the forest changes: on upper peak surfaces exposed to dryness, wind, and harsh weather, ash tree plantations resist; thus, we admire mature beeches and ash trees side by side. We continue on pleasant terrain toward the prominence of Hangyás Hill; to the right, the headwaters of Szén Creek valley deepen.

Turning left on a short unmarked path, we can detour to Hangyás-bérc’s open, grassy-rock lookout, where the view to the opposite Hollókő block is limited due to growing trees. Continuing on the undulating ridgeline, uncovered grass surfaces follow each other, offering a view southward into the caldera’s inner valley network with converging branches. On the exposed edges, tilted, bench-separated andesite lava flow remains have been excavated, with vertical walls breaking off asymmetrically along the ridge line. We pass the Tóth Tamás commemorative plaque’s pyramid, then are amazed by Katalin Rock’s 21-meter-high breccia stone tower cemented from stones of varying sizes. From another plaque, we learn the formation is named after Katalin Kautezky Larder, whose husband erected the monument in 1991. If we haven’t yet satisfied our appetite for fantastic volcanic rocks, the narrow knife-edge Szabó Rocks follow. From its top, we get an excellent view of the Csóványos lookout, and leftward the Hollókő – Vár-bérc ridge line, along with the system of lower side ridges and valleys. Look at your feet, too, as the Haramia Hole chimney yawneth in the rough rock surface—walk carefully in its vicinity! This well-like hollow was likely human-made; its name relates to Sisa Pista, the last bandit of Nógrád, who, according to local tradition, used this place as one of his hideouts during the 1870s.

Crowning the hike

As we start a steep climb, we see more volcanic formations, but the crown is formed by the sizable, pointed rock tower of Korona-kő. The site is also known as Vilma Rest Stop; a metal plaque placed here testifies this, dedicated to Mrs. Vilma Torma Lajosné by the Vértes nature walkers. Like the geological formations seen so far, this too formed from former block- and ash-flow sediments, which post-volcanic eruptions moved downslope, gradually fragmenting. The different granular and block sizes of glowing blocks and their finer-coarser debris mixed and flowed as a mass movement, cooling down to fuse unsorted. This is why we see pyroclastic pieces several meters in diameter alongside pebbles and fine ash grains. Erosion over millions of years and intense frost action during the Pleistocene ice ages shaped these weather-resistant multi-component formations, still showing the original volcanic structure today.

Captivating beech-ash forest surrounds us as we finish with one last climb arriving at the Csóványos summit.

CsóványosON

Originally a geodetic measuring tower stood on the summit, renovated and converted into a lookout in 2014. Climbing to its top, we can enjoy one of the country’s finest panoramas. The completely unobstructed circular view is truly magnificent; colloquially: there’s nothing like it on the Boulevard! The spectacle and feeling compensate for the previous climbs. There is a magnificent view of the mountain range’s central part, the High Börzsöny, the largest uninhabited mountainous area in the country with continuous forest. The ancient volcanic caldera arc is easily recognizable. The former edge stretching from Miklós Peak through Magosfa, Csóványos, and Nagy-Hideg-hegy now forms a section of Börzsöny’s highest ridge, complemented by the Vár-bérc – Hollókő side ridge; this is the basin’s western edge. The cauldron-like hollow is pierced northward by the Csarna Stream, collecting waters from adjacent side valleys. Relatively large forests and elevation differences, rock ridges, deep inner stream valleys, and side ridges create a hiking terrain wilder than average in Hungary. To the south, the horizon is framed by the Visegrád Mountains, we can overlook Dobogókő region, and the distinctive break of Vörös-kő is well outlined. A section of the Danube can also be glimpsed; in the foreground, the ridges and basins of Southern Börzsöny are visible. Closer still, the ridge section runs from Csóványos – Nagy-Hideg-hegy – Nagy-Inóc. To the north, far away Ipolyság and Drégely Castle, closer the Magosfa can be seen. In clear weather, the Mátra and volcanic mountains of the Carpathians in Upper Hungary (such as Szitnya, Körmöci Mountains, Polyána) and the Tatras also show themselves. To the west, the flat floodplains of the Ipoly and Garam leading into the Danube stretch into infinity. Identification of sights is aided by labeled photo boards, with much information about Csóványos and Börzsöny available on panels at and below the lookout levels.

Climbing back down from the tower, we can sit on the constructed resting place a bit. To the west of the lookout, we also find debris rocks from the former volcanic activity. Upon one, the Peace Monument was erected, with a touching and attention-grabbing story. In early September 1914, four young men went on a Börzsöny hike. By then, Europe was already in flames: the First World War broke out. Here on Csóványos, they vowed to climb the peak every 10 years to express their desire for peace, emphasizing the futility of wars. This was the origin of the Peace Hikes movement, first organized by the Újpest nature friends in 1924, most recently in 2014 on the centenary occasion. The memorial stone was erected in 1964 for the 50th anniversary. The First World War took many members from various tourist organizations to the fronts; several associations erected memorials to their fallen heroes in the 1920s and ’30s.

Inside the caldera

From the summit, we set off northwest on the P▲ trail. On sloping terrain, we avoid the highest but now only seasonally flowing spring of Börzsöny, the Felső-Rózsa Spring. The ridge-led trail runs through wind-ravaged forest, with broken branches and fallen trunks scattered chaotically on the surface by frequent strong winds. We also cross rocky fields, with smaller and larger volcanites fragmented by frost action during the ice ages. At the Három-hányás Saddle junction, we take a sharp left and begin descending inward into the caldera. Our trail leads under the ridge, counter to our previous walking direction. To the left on the hillside, we see dark gray andesite lava bastions with benches, and below, a large stone sea spreads in the forest undergrowth; a fresh green moss layer has formed on the rocks. The beautiful linden-beech forest suddenly opens, revealing the stunning damage caused by the ice storm in December 2014. Due to freezing rain, ice armor formed on the branches and trunks, and the additional weight toppled the dense, majestic forest of the previous day like matchsticks. The significant destruction mainly affected northern valleys and hillsides, and its impact will shape the landscape for many years. Although the hiking trail has been cleared, the scene of scattered massive trunks and broken stumps remains with us for a while. However, in the forest’s absence, the surroundings unfold: we get a view of the Hangyás-bérc ridge and the Nagy-Hideg-hegy mass from the now gentler trail. Suddenly, a tall, castle-wall-like rock towers above us on the left. The long, exposed breccia formation breaks here at one place, and a natural gate opens between the two bastions: we arrive at the mysterious passage of Oltár-kő. The largest block diameter in the welded layers of the pyroclastic flow reaches 2 meters, its name referring to a pagan sacrificial site. The 1931 hiking guide mentions: “beautiful view, rarely visited climbing school.”

Entering the forest gate

Upon entering the natural castle gate, the forest magically restores here; the ice no longer damaged it. We hike comfortably on an easy-level path into one of Börzsöny’s splendid forest reserves. The single-person trail leads through magical terrain, where we truly take a forest bath. The mysterious atmosphere, the beech forest is cool even in summer, occasionally mixed with ash and linden trees, making this section a true joy trek. Towards the right, the gorge of the Oltár Stream, once carrying a narrow-gauge railway, deepens; to the left, on the steep hillside, we see rocks of various sizes and forms along with stone seas fallen from them. We pass under the previously seen Szabó Rocks, where it’s worth walking as quietly as possible, as this less disturbed rocky area is a favorite habitat for game; deer or roe deer can be spotted here. Due to the dense canopy, understory vegetation is sparse, and sunlight filtering through the leaves often lights the trunks and litter in spotlights. On Hangyás-bérc’s side, we spot the Spartacus Spring enclosed by reddish and gray lava rocks; the area often becomes marshy due to water seepage, attracting thirsty forest animals. At the ridge crossing, a few steps to the right lead to a small clearing, offering a limited view south and west. The grassy area is an excellent place to sit a while and immerse ourselves in the forest.

Back to the shelter

Our path makes a sharp left turn, crossing an ice-damaged forest patch but then walking again in the continuous, closed thicket. It won’t take much time before we arrive at the Rakodó junction, from where we find our way back to Nagy-Hideg-hegy on the known K trail. However, we can also decide to descend from the saddle to Királyrét and leave the mountain. But consider this choice carefully, as spending a night in the Börzsöny summit region is an extraordinary experience.