At the crown of the mountains

Itinerary

• From Trangoška we follow the Z trail to the Chata M. R. Štefánika mountain hut.
• From the mountain hut we follow the P trail (to the left) to the Krúpovo sedlo saddle.
• From the Krúpovo sedlo junction, we take a round trip detour to the Gyömbér (Ďumbier) summit on the P trail to the right.
• From Krúpovo sedlo we follow the P trail to the Kamenná chata mountain hut located on the slope of Chopok.
• From the mountain hut we take a round trip detour to Chopok on the P▲ path.
• We descend on the S trail on the southern slope.
• Upon reaching the K trail path, we follow it to the left to the Kosodrevina cable car station.
• From Kosodrevina we descend on the S trail to Srdiečko, then along the asphalt road to the Trangoška settlement.

Detailed description of the hike

Popular route, primeval forest environment

We start our hike from a point of a scattered mountain settlement located on the southern side of the High Low Tatras (Nízke Tatry). Trangoška, situated at 1100 m altitude, formed at a widening point of a valley attacking the side of Gyömbér, offering an easy ascent option. Previously there was a hunting lodge here, and in the early 20th century, a mountain hut was also built because the main peak was only accessible from the southern side by a relatively long route through the Sebesér valley (Bystrá dolina). The significance of this "corridor" is indicated by the fact that already in 1886, a riding path including two bridges was built towards Gyömbér by a member of the Hungarian Carpathian Association from the area. Then, in the 1920s, the Chata M. R. Štefánika mountain hut was built at the upper saddle, reducing the importance of Trangoška. During World War II, the tourist house was destroyed and replaced by a small (Swedish) wooden house, which burnt down a few years later.

Leaving behind the relatively late-developed southern ski center compared to the north, we start the upper section of the Sebesér valley (Bystrá dolina) on the Z trail. The roughly two-hour climb to Štefánika mountain hut is relatively monotonous, often crowded, and follows a roughly evenly ascending path. Our forest trail begins by the Chata Zazvor buffet – the pile of logs placed next to the hiking trail was not left by the forestry but, as its sign indicates, is firewood destined for the Štefánika mountain hut, carried up by volunteers in exchange for 1 tea per log, according to old custom. Since 1991, the hut’s legendary caretaker Igor Fabricius has carried more than 170,000 kg of supplies (wood, food, drinks, beer barrels, furniture) up to the building alone.

In the valley, we ascend on a rocky trail, initially beside a stream, then the sound of rushing water ceases, replaced by the sound of wind bending the fir trees. The open, patchy glade with fallen and dead patches is a guardian of natural conditions. Looking back as we ascend, we can see the huge primeval forest surrounding the ski center buildings, containing real ancient forest patches, parts of which have been untouched since the mid-19th century and now enjoy reserve protection. The glade gradually opens, and the top section reveals a full view of the highest part of the Low Tatras, its gentle southern slopes, and the winding valley heads of secondary ridges. The distinctive mound of Chopok, our distant goal, is also visible beneath dwarf pines, along with ski slopes, lifts, and a service road sketched into it.

Below the main ridge

In a ravine branching right, a small wooden house peeks between the trees: it marks the entrance to the Cave of the Dead Bats (Jaskyňa mŕtvych netopierov). This 19 km-long cave system is the highest publicly accessible cave in Slovakia and is known for its grand shapes and 6000-year-old bat bones. It drills into one of the limestone covers remaining patchily on the northern and less so southern edges, remnants of which have long since been eroded on the central mass of the Low Tatras. We reach the dwarf pine zone and, before getting used to the increasingly splendid views, the serpentine-diverted path emerges on the Velky Gápel ridge covered with a dwarf pine veil, offering views southwards. The panorama stretches all the way to the lowland edge of the Carpathians: nearby lie the vast wooded mass of Polyána, the slanting back of Klenóci-Vepor, and the Muránska karst plateau, all dwarfed by the scale of the Low Tatras, with the North Hungarian Mountains faintly visible in the background. From Naszály through Mátra and Bükk, we can identify Hungarian landscapes. Turning west, we see the dwarf pine-stained slopes of Gyömbér, Chopok, Dereš, and Skalka.

A few meters later, we arrive at Chata M. R. Štefánika – its terrace complements the previously described view with a magnificent mass representation of the central and eastern Low Tatras to the east, ending with the giant recognizable by the transmitter tower of Kráľova hoľa (King’s Hill). The tourist house features an excellent restaurant and an authentic mountain hut atmosphere, plus rooms mostly in dormitories accommodating 48 people in total. When beds fill, it’s not uncommon for guests to sleep on the kitchen floor, considering it’s a popular roughly week-long route stop. The building began construction in 1924 to replace the mountain hut destroyed on the Gyömbér summit during World War I, but the challenging construction only ended in 1928. It is named after Milan Rastislav Štefánik, a scientist mainly in astronomy, a general in World War I, and an important figure in founding Czechoslovakia. It’s worth spending a night here at 1740 m to enjoy sunset painting the huge mountains red and shrouding valleys in mist.

Behind the hut, a memorial from winter 1944 commemorates those fallen in local WWII battles and partisans crossing the main ridge. Next, we turn left to tackle the main ridge of the Low Tatras on the P trail. This route is part of the “Slovak Blue Trail,” a red-marked hiking path themed around the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), running from the Dukla Pass to Bratislava (or Devín). The upcoming section gently ascends the Gyömbér slope, staying above the tree line, providing continuous southward views of the Sebesér valley and the colorful slopes of the highest peaks. The magnificent sight lasts for some time, allowing observation of scattered dwarf pine patches over alpine meadows and the grey scree slopes covering them. Massive tongue-shaped deposits cut across the Gyömbér side - their formation owes to Ice Age frosts and freeze-thaw weathering.

On the snowy peaks

We reach the main ridge at the Krúpovo sedlo saddle; on the right-branching P trail, we make an approximately half-hour (total round trip, continuous) detour to conquer Gyömbér (Ďumbier). Going up, one notices the Low Tatras’ topographic asymmetry: the ridge drops sharply northward in rocky cliffs, while the southern slope gently declines. This owes to glaciation, as persistent frost formed glaciers feeding the north-facing valley heads, one reaching up to 5 km in length. The U-shaped valleys left by glaciers can only be admired from above, but the rock faces carved by ice are visible from the first meters. Between steep slopes, one finally sees one of the most beautiful and exciting parts of the Carpathians, the mountain world of Liptó – it's better to reserve deep observation for the summit.

The highest peak of the range, the 2045 m relatively flat, stone-covered Gyömbér (Ďumbier), is ascended by a gently climbing path, crowned with a cross marking the significance of the place. We can look out from the heart of Slovakia, enjoying, in clear weather, the unique panoramic views of the Northwestern Carpathians. We can see the southern Carpathian lowland edge, the broken rock crowns of the Tatras to the north, and the forested backs near Kócs-havas and the Beskids, as well as the alpine ridge of the Kis-Fátra. The Low Tatras’ seemingly endless ridge undulates above the tree line, with broad glacial valleys visible on the northern side. Marmots whistling from rock crevices and Tatra chamois moving gracefully in tricky places are common here. Hunting once exterminated these gentle animals, but a few dozen individuals transplanted from the High Tatras in the early 1970s re-established the population, now grown but still small, potentially hybridizing with introduced Alpine chamois in nearby ranges (Slovak Paradise, Great Fatra).

Ridge hike on a constructed walkway

Because of its southern slope conditions, Gyömbér was known as an easily accessible peak already in the early 20th century; therefore, the Zólyom County Branch of the Hungarian Carpathian Association built a “larger and massive granite shelter” on the summit in 1902 (the Károly mountain hut). This building, inaccessible in winter snowstorms, was destroyed during World War I. From the summit, we descend back to the Krúpovo sedlo junction and continue the ridge hike along P trail on the side of Krúpova hoľa (Dara Hill). A gentle descent begins on an easy section with remarkably well-maintained paths on scree, a real rock walkway. These stony paths were built over four decades starting in 1964 by university students with pickaxes and crowbars, aiming to prevent accidents and protect the thin soil layer.

Another saddle follows, offering superb views northward. On the projecting alpine secondary ridges, dwarf pine patches replanted to prevent soil erosion are also visible. The forests climbing below the ridge disappeared over centuries due to logging and shepherding, sometimes lowering the tree line below 1500 m. We move away from Gyömbér on a relatively comfortable route, occasionally glancing back at the gentle giant. Chopok already points the way as we arrive above the head of the Sebesér valley (Bystrá dolina) and the Trangoška settlement. A path paved with stones winds up the steep slope sprinkled with granite blocks, circumventing the peak from the south. The traffic is usually tremendous as we assault Slovakia's most visited mountain. (The stone walkway originally built for two hikers is no longer adequate, with a trampled path alongside vividly demonstrating soil vulnerability.) Upon reaching the top of the Jasná ski resort and under the cable cars, it’s worth visiting the neatly renovated Kamenná chata (Stone mountain hut), offering a restaurant and mass accommodation.

Beside the hut, within a few minutes, we can ascend (P▲ trail) to Chopok at 2024 m, which visually is not a peak but a large stone pile – its name means hills or piles. From the top, we admire the already known panorama, though to the east, the large mass of Gyömbér obscures much of the eastern Low Tatras, while to the north, the reservoir in the Liptov Basin (Liptovská Mara), the Kócs Mountains, and the Kis-Fátra are more prominent. To the west lies the last two-thousand-meter peak, Dereš, behind which the main ridge is sculpted with peaks and only partially traceable, with the Great Fatra peeking out in the background. The Jasná ski resort is Slovakia's largest contiguous ski area, attracting crowds year-round thanks to its lifts on both sides. The upper part and wider area of the Deményfalvi valley (Demänovská dolina) preserve Eden-like forests, though large clearcuts scar the upper section.

Back to the forest zone

In contrast, the southern side has so far been spared thanks to reserve protection, presenting a refreshing picture. If the lift is running, use it to the middle station, saving the strenuous steep descent. (From Kosodrevina, you either hike or must tackle another steep ascent on the ski slope from the lower station to Srdiečko.) If you choose the walking path, start descending on the S trail. (Be careful in summer if choosing ski slopes, as different pistes lead in different directions!) The well-worn, rocky, uncomfortable path challenges knees and thighs, reaching the K trail running along the fir forest border in a narrow dwarf pine alley. We briefly follow this trail to the left: a contour path winding through pines opens a picturesque downward view of Gyömbér, lending the hike a final genuine Carpathian atmosphere.

Arriving at Kosodrevina, built in the 1950s (its name means dwarf pine), ski slopes and lifts dominate the view anew; mountain hotels and a restaurant are found here beyond the station. The S trail descends to the right under the cable railway, but we can also follow the ski slope. The steep path enters the fir forest before reaching Srdiečko. This settlement was built together with Kosodrevina and means "little heart" because local legend says a heart-shaped meadow once spread there. After the Trangoška wooden house burned down, Srdiečko temporarily took over its role in the 1950s. The battered romantic restaurant overlooking the valley can be the final chord of our hike, with bus services departing from here (toward Brezno or Brezno Town). If the car waits at Trangoška, walking along the asphalt road, we bid farewell to the mountains as the main road penetrates dense fir forest, offering one last view of the rocky side of Gyömbér.