Tour passports and more information about the alpannonia® Hard circular routes can be found on the naturpark.hu/alpannonia®túrázó website.
We set out to conquer the peak of Transdanubia, Írott-kő.
Among many route options, we choose the shortest, as our goal with the hike is exercise, and overcoming such an elevation gain over such a short distance, especially keeping the one-hour time limit, is a truly serious achievement.
Our start and end point is in Velem at the bus turnaround, the alpannonia® information board. Two or three deep breaths, some warm-up moves, and we can start the hike.
The "Lovers' Island", the babbling stream whets our appetite for hiking; after passing the former Avar inn, we are already in the forest, and we begin the ascent on the Mountain of Cultures nature trail, reaching St. Vid Chapel in about a quarter of an hour, where among other things, we find the Blue route memorial. This is an ideal resting place but not for us; we just take a quick look and continue to the summit.
We reach the forest paved road, cross it, and continue climbing through forests of alternating tree compositions, reaching the Hörmann parking lot surrounded by dense pine trees. From Velem, we have reached this point in about half an hour; we don't rest long, the Írott-kő is still far away.
Following the signboards, we pass the barrier and reach the Hörmann spring, then turning left, we start the "summit attack" along the Írottkő nature trail. Amid changing ground and forest conditions, we finally spot the Írottkő lookout. Inside the building, we can read about the Trianon memorial, and on the tower's top, we enjoy a 360-degree panorama, binocular view of Austria's higher mountains; meanwhile, let's be proud, we made it to the peak of Transdanubia.
From here, we mostly go downhill and flat sections back to Velem, taking a less-used path by the tourists, specifically along the border ridge. Down in the Dark Valley again by the babbling forest stream, our pace changes; we take time to notice trees, birds, and easily regain lost energy in this pleasant environment.
The Írottkő Nature Park bike path leads us back to Velem, where we arrive almost rested, enriched with beautiful experiences...
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileTips and suggestions
For the full hiking experience, we recommend visiting the following websites:
Roadbook
Our route mostly follows the yellow and red alpannonia® markings, as well as the red hiking trail sign.
- Our starting point is the alpannonia® information board at the Velem bus turnaround. We begin the route following the yellow alpannonia® marking, from the information board turning right onto Petőfi Street heading into the forest, but at the first opportunity we turn left off the asphalt as the yellow alpannonia® marking runs along the stream in the valley called "Lovers' Island", parallel to Petőfi Street.
- After leaving the former Avar Inn, we reach a paved forest road, but at the first hairpin turn we immediately return to the forest, continuing straight on the Mountain of Cultures nature trail.
- The nature trail's information boards are found further up; until then, a little thrill is the almost fairy-tale-like "witch's hut" (shack), which stands/collapses to our left...
- Our path marked with yellow alpannonia® turns left after a while, here we already see information boards, shortly after we spot St. Vid Chapel, whose white-painted walls "shine" in the forest, and we climb the steps onto the chapel level.
- From St. Vid, following the yellow alpannonia® marking and the blue cross, we reach the asphalt forest road, which we immediately cross, continuing our "mountain climb" diagonally right-forward following again the yellow alpannonia® and the blue cross markings. We pass through forests of mixed composition, at the first intersection turning left and shortly afterward turning right at the second, nearby is the 1st checkpoint/insect hotel, finally turning left we exit to the Hörmann parking lot.
- At the Hörmann parking lot, we follow the asphalt road towards the forest, encountering information and direction boards, as well as a barrier. The barrier only prohibits car traffic, as indicated by the worn path beside it, many tourists and hikers use this path.
- Soon after the barrier, we reach an intersection, the Hörmann spring is down to the right, the path to Írott-kő and the Írottkő nature trail is upwards to the left. Following the red alpannonia® and the blue and green hiking trail signs, we begin the "summit attack". From Hörmann parking lot it takes about three-quarters of an hour at a normal pace to reach the Írottkő lookout, the highest point of Transdanubia and Burgenland. About 50 m below the lookout, we actually first reach an intersection, as several paths lead to the lookout. There is also a small wooden hut and shelter here.
- From the lookout facing Austria, turning left after a few steps, we see the real Írottkő with the cross marking the summit.
- Walking back to the Hungarian side, we leave the lookout; to the right of the wooden hut begins a less-used path, where we must follow red and green hiking trail signs, which is essentially the border line running along a ridge, here we descend until we reach the Dark Valley.
- From the ridge descending into the Dark Valley, we turn left, cross the stream with the help of some logs and Hungarian hiking trail signs. Having crossed we follow the red hiking trail marking on the left side relative to the flow of the stream. We continue for a long time, at the next intersection we also keep left/straight following the red hiking trail sign, rising to the right we would reach the cave of Kalapos-kő above Bozsok.
- Shortly after the intersection, we spot the charmingly named and actually very pleasant Pütyör spring in the stream bed. It is worth descending here to linger a bit by the babbling stream, fill our water bottle with delicious spring water, and here we also find the 2nd checkpoint/insect hotel.
- After the "spring visit" continuing the route, we reach another barrier, which we bypass, turning left at the hairpin bend of the Írottkő Nature Park bike path towards the Saint Spring, which is about 150 meters from here to our left side.
- Following the green bike sign of the Írottkő Nature Park bike path, after a gentle climb we turn right, shortly after entering the border of Velem, where we again meet the yellow alpannonia® marking.
- Following the yellow alpannonia® marking, we turn into Kossuth Lajos street beside the building of the Camphill Association of Hungary. On this street, among others, we pass a large green building complex with the name Novák on it, and finally behind the Mayor's Office, we reach the starting point of our route at the bus turnaround at the alpannonia® information board.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Velem is accessible multiple times daily by bus from Kőszeg-Szombathely.
- Regardless of the direction you come from, it is advisable to get off at the stop named Velem, bus turnaround.
- If you arrive by train to Kőszeg, good news: all buses heading towards Velem stop at the Kőszeg railway station as well.
Directions
The starting point of our route is the bus stop itself, specifically the alpannonia® information board.Parking
- Velem can be reached from Kőszeg southwest via the main road leading to Cák and then Kőszegszerdahely, turning off at the Mindenszentek church in the center of Kőszegszerdahely.
- The optimal parking near the start of the route is the section of Rákóczi street running beside the Velemi Creative House.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
- Írottkő Nature Park Guide
- alpannonia® publications
Author’s map recommendations
- Írottkő-Geschriebenstein Nature Park, Kőszeg Mountains map (Szarvas Maps)
- Kőszeg Mountains (Cartographia)
- Printed maps of the hiking route can be requested at the Kőszeg Tourinform office
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
- Basic hiking equipment: closed shoes, season-appropriate clothing, drinking water, food. For navigation, the Természetjáró app. Maps can be purchased at the Tourinform office (Main Square 2).
- Bring a water bottle as during the hike you will encounter drinkable water springs.
- If using a GPS device, packing a powerbank (portable battery) and charging cable is recommended.
- On some sections of the hike from spring to autumn, the path leads through high undergrowth – it is advisable to wear long pants at these times.
- The view from the Írottkő lookout is beautiful, so it is worth bringing binoculars.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions