Living traditions and sacred places in the southern part of the Őrség

Itinerary

• We leave Őriszentpéter heading towards Bajánsenye.
• We cycle straight through Bajánsenye, then make a detour to the charming Kerceszomor.
• Returning to our original route, we cycle to Magyarszombatfa, then to Velemér and Szentgyörgyvölgy.
• From here we arrive on a scenic road to Magyarföld, then a little further on, passing Kerkáskápolna, we reach the main road leading to Bajánsenye. If touring by trekking bike, we can continue straight on the marked cycle path towards Őriszentpéter, but if on a road bike, it is better to turn left to return to Bajánsenye, and from there follow the familiar route back to Őriszentpéter.

Detailed description of the route

Detour to the bravest village

From Őriszentpéter we head towards Bajánsenye, and on the mainly downhill main road we have time to enjoy the landscape. After cycling through Bajánsenye it is definitely worth making a detour to Kercaszomor. This charming village recently earned the honorary title of “The Bravest Village” because in 1919, troops from the neighboring Serb-Croat-Slovene Kingdom occupied the western part of the now merged village, Szomoróc, but after the Treaty of Trianon decision, the local population reclaimed the village. Thanks to this brave act, it eventually became part of Hungary. As everywhere in the Őrség, we could spend a few days here: close to the village there are three beautiful nature trails and at the far end a historic bell tower, along with many interesting open farms, especially if arriving during the Hétrétország festival (which is highly recommended). The bell tower by the road is a characteristic element of the Őrség landscape: these wooden structures, built mainly in poorer areas, also tell the knowledgeable eye that building stone is scarce in the area, as the soil is clayey everywhere.

Potters and picturesque churches

The clayey soil plays a leading role in our next destination, Magyarszombatfa, known throughout the country for its potters. In the old reed-thatched Pottery House, we can get acquainted with this living tradition, which has been on the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2014. We can also directly experience the potters’ world by trying our skills at many potters' farms, not only during Hétrétország.

In Velemér, one of the most beautiful medieval churches in the country awaits us. The early 13th-century early Gothic church, which stands on the former site of the village at the forest edge, is a real rarity: its interior is decorated with beautiful frescoes and the builders paid special attention to the orientation of the church and the frescoes. On the year’s special days (equinox, etc.) the dawn light illuminates different paintings, but one fresco never receives direct light, that is the depiction of hell. This small church is truly a bucket-list place!

In Velemér we also find potters, including workshops producing Habán and Renaissance majolica (the ceramic artist Éva Dávid creates Italian Renaissance and Habán majolica with medieval origins). We are roughly halfway through our journey in Velemér, and the Cipó Guesthouse is an ideal place for a good lunch. The Meztéllébas restaurant in the neighboring Szentgyörgyvölgy also approaches the rich Őrség gastronomy in a novel way.

In Szentgyörgyvölgy, do not turn immediately towards Magyarföld, but cycle to the westernmost and youngest painted coffered Calvinist church in the country, whose color and motif world is unique.

And still more churches

From the village, we cycle along a beautiful forest asphalt road to Magyarföld, where we can see a charming bell tower and the recently built Wooden Church on the village outskirts (this new church often hosts concerts). Finally, at Kerkáskápolna, we reach the main road leading to Bajánsenye: if not on a road bike, choose the straight forest gravel road (marked cycle path); if on a road bike, turn left, cycle to Bajánsenye, then back to Őriszentpéter!