Börzsöny cycling route in the Nagy Valley

For simplicity – and because it is practical to use public transport with a bike – we now present the valley from east to west along the forestry road connecting Nagyoroszi and Bernecebaráti, which also runs the green cycling route. With a bike, you only need to cover about 6 km and just 200 m of elevation gain from Nagyoroszi railway station to then simply roll into the Nagy Valley from Pénzásás. However, the road surface is very varied throughout, unfortunately of quite poor quality in places, so we recommend exploring it rather with a mountain bike than a road bike.

At the last turn of our winding descent from Pénzásás, we enter the Nagy Valley. At this bend, there is already an opportunity to take a short detour to visit one of Börzsöny’s most famous historical sites, Drégely Castle. The round trip is less than two kilometers, so it’s worth locking up the bike and switching to walking mode, as besides the ruins, the view here is also spectacular.

As we continue along the forestry road – now also joined by the red and the "m" trail signs of the Mária Route, which also start from Nagyoroszi – the surface deteriorates, so hardly any speeding will happen here. But perhaps that’s not such a bad thing, since that’s not the goal anyway. The section we cover on foot from where the trails join to the rest area at Deszkáspuszta is not long either.

At Deszkáspuszta, the green hiking trail also joins, which also starts from Nagyoroszi and descends here along the side of Várbükk via Pénzásás. Once there were three houses here that served as homes for the forest ranger's family and patrol gendarmes also had a service house here. After World War II, Deszkáspuszta was depopulated and started to fall into ruin. In 2006, the last dilapidated building, which had served tourists for years as a key house, was bulldozed. Only the shelter at the rest area remains as a structure. Just a few garden plants and a row of planted pine trees indicate that people once lived here.

The recently renovated rest area is excellent for picnics, roasting bacon, and even camping or bivouacking. Under the giant pines is flat terrain with several tables and benches, as well as two fire pits enhancing comfort. The only drawback to the campsite is that although there is still a well by the road here, it is hardly suitable for drawing water. However, there is still the possibility to wash or refresh oneself in the Nagy-völgyi stream running on the opposite side of the road – naturally keeping environmental considerations in mind. Under no circumstances should we allow chemicals into or near the water!

A few hundred meters away along the road and by the stream, we find the Deszkáspuszta Mary Cave. Before putting on a caving helmet, we should know that this is not a hollow cave reaching into the earth. József Forgács, who once lived in Deszkáspuszta and was also a member of the church community leadership, once fell by horse and carriage from the road into the stream but miraculously was unharmed. In gratitude, he built a small cave-shaped shrine from stones of the stream in honor of Mary. It is no coincidence that the Mária Route also passes through the Nagy Valley, as we will find other memorials built for the Virgin Mary later on. There are also places to rest and camp at the "cave", with benches and tables, although it is true that nettles often take over this area.

After just 250 meters, we reach the spring of the famous Nógrád bandit, Sisa Pista. The Bandit Spring can be approached via a charming small wooden bridge over the stream next to the road. The spring and rest area is undoubtedly one of the most ideal camping spots in the area. The alder-lined streambank offers an idyllic setting for cooking and camping, except the shaded and water-abundant place is also favored by mosquitoes. On the edge of the meadow above the rest area stands a huge hunting stand, which provides excellent shelter in case of a storm, and is perfect for bivouacking.

We can read about Sisa Pista, the local flora, and geological curiosities not only here at the Bandit Spring but also in the Oszlai Gorge starting on the opposite side of the road. The Sisa Pista nature trail is 500 meters long, leading up to the bandit's former – now collapsed – cave. The huge rock walls protruding from the gorge are unique geological features of Börzsöny. This part of the mountain range is the oldest, formed about 16 million years ago due to volcanic activity. The surface shapes and rock materials simultaneously testify to the sediment debris of ancient seas once here and the andesite material from volcanic eruptions. The name of the gorge comes from the Slavic word "oszla", meaning whetstone. This is no coincidence, as residents of nearby Bernecebaráti collected the whetstone needed for sharpening scythes and sickles from the gorge’s depths.

Continuing from Oszlai Gorge along the shady and gravelly Nagy-völgyi road, on the right side, we can spot a small pond rich in wildlife. Although quite small – one might think it’s just a puddle – the excellent water quality is indicated by abundant green vegetation and often by a family of ducks. Along the road, not only here but almost throughout, we can also encounter spotted salamanders and large green lizards.

Continuing along the Nagy-völgyi stream, we soon reach the Oszlopó spring and the adjacent rest area. Although the spring is built up, we can only access its refreshing water by dipping, often raising questions about its suitability for drinking. Opposite the spring, on the other side of the stream, is a charming small wooden house, which also makes a perfect camping spot. The tables, benches, and fire pit here could use renovation but still serve their purpose. The meadow in front of the house provides ample space for camping, from where on a clear night, we can also perfectly count shooting stars. The overall view of the location is only slightly spoiled by the condition of the road running on the other side of the stream, which is marred by traces of forestry work.

The next rest area is at the confluence of the Kalakocs stream and the Nagy-völgy stream, where the green trail splits off from us and takes a steep direction toward Hont on the side of Zöld-mál. The Kalakocs rest area, located just over a kilometer from Oszlopó, is also a small shelter by a stream with a wooden house and fire pit. The forestry for a long time stored harvested wood here by the rest area – similarly to the Oszlopó rest area – which has left traces on this road segment, too. Nowadays, however, there is no need to fear huge wood stacks and constantly buzzing machinery: work has recently slowed down, and the valley is beginning to calm. The road toward Bernecebaráti is of increasingly poor quality, with mud deposited by forestry machines previously further worsening it. This can often pose a problem for cyclists after rainy weather – though those equipped with wide tires should face no obstacle.

From the Kalakocs rest area, only the green cycling trail and the Mária Route continue with us. After three kilometers, we reach the last rain-protected rest area of the Nagy Valley. Here we find the same type of wooden house as at previous spots, with the difference that it stands directly by the road. On the edge of the large meadow in front of it winds the Nagy-völgy stream, above which once passed a narrow-gauge railway that operated until 1969, carrying timber extracted from the surrounding valleys. Only the partially collapsed bridge pillars remain as its traces. On the meadow, a large scout troop could comfortably camp or even hold a soccer match, though the tall vegetation, which is sometimes mowed and sometimes not, may pose an obstacle.

The unnamed rest area on the map is called Veres-fűzek according to the small wooden plaque on the house. The place near Bernecebaráti is far enough from the settlement to feel like we are out in nature, but close enough to fetch something for the evening barbecue during our camping.

Not far from the campsite, we find the yellow cross trail, which climbs onto the Ozmotring before joining the yellow trail known as the Tótok-útja, which crosses the northeastern part of the mountain range connecting Kemence and Diósjenő. From the junction of the yellow cross, Máriácska stands less than a kilometer away on the edge of the settlement. At the small enclosed shrine built into the rock face, fresh flowers always indicate that locals hold the mother of Jesus in special reverence. Next to Máriácska, on the right and left sides, are insignificant small holes that mark the traces of trees buried by a volcanic eruption 15 million years ago.

Upon reaching Bernecebaráti, we leave behind the charming campsites dotting the Nagy Valley, which offers many hiking opportunities with dense forests, flower meadows, and babbling streams inviting nature lovers. Passing the settlement we can end the route, but by bike, we must continue to reach public transport. In that case, after about three kilometers, we reach Kemence on the main road, from where following the Kemence valley line and the red cycling sign, we can cross the Börzsöny again on a comfortable asphalt road. This involves about a 24 km ride back to Nagyoroszi, or continuing straight at the junction via a slightly shorter 20 km route with more climbs to reach Diósjenő, where trains are also available.

You can go to Börzsöny by bike or on foot, pass through it or camp at designated places, but always pay attention to the rules of the rest areas and nature protection, as we are only visitors in the home of protected plants and animals living here.