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Our destination - on the ascent to the PayerhüttePhoto: Thomas Nippgen, Archiv Thomas Nippgen
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Attention, the route is heavily frequented.
On the ascent, congestion often occurs both at the Tschierfleck, the III climbing section, and the rocks below the Lombardi bivouac. Here the nerves of the climbers are tested. Advancing too closely (even without corona) at the fixed points is at least met with socially unacceptable comments, if not also with corresponding kicks.
Based on my over 40 years of experience, I can only recommend observing the people at the hut the evening before and in the morning at departure. Those who behave at the hut as if it belongs to them or boast excessively about their tours but need the help of mountain guides the next morning to put on the climbing harness, these are the people responsible for the congestion and unnecessary aggression. Although some relaxation can be brought by keeping distance, it cannot be completely prevented. Since 1985 I have done this route several times and observed the same every time.
A sad phenomenon that is increasingly encountered at heavily frequented summits such as Großglockner, Wildspitze, Zuckerhütl, Weismies, etc.
Be aware of objective dangers such as rockfall, especially at the Bärenloch and the rocks below the Lombardi bivouac.
Tips and suggestions
Time and altitude details from the Payer hut
The route was climbed in August 2020!
Roadbook
From Sulden take the K2 chairlift to the mountain station. Follow the hiking trail westward to the Tabaretta hut. From the Tabaretta hut continue on the steep path to the Bärenjoch and from there less steeply to the Payer hut (overnight stay there).
From the Payer hut follow trail marks and with easy climbing to a tower before the Tschierfleck. Descend shortly and then climb exposed up the face of the Tschierfleck. The lower quarter of the wall is climbed easily (II) to the start of the chains on a ledge. Then follow the chains to a rock shoulder at the end of the wall. Briefly follow the narrow ridge horizontally to the next climb. Now pass right of a ridge tower to a small notch, then make a stemming move over the pushing climbing section (III+) up again to a ridge. Follow this ridge to its end, then follow the trail marks right towards the glacier. Shortly before reaching the glacier edge, the trail marks turn into a kind of via ferrata. First follow the wire ropes horizontally, then descend about 5m to an ice slab. Stay at the upper end of the ice slab, traverse around a rock nose, and climb over large boulders to reach the so-called Bärenloch. This is the belay point for the glacier crossing.
Over the glacier, make a wide left arc and climb steeply to the rocks below the Lombardi bivouac box. You can climb the rocks directly, but it is recommended to ascend on the right edge of the rocks on the ice. This leads to the firn shoulder above the bivouac box. Then ascend the glacier, pass through a crevasse zone at the top to the lower of the two Ortler plateaus. Now keep direction towards a small icefall, which you bypass with a tight right curve and reach the upper plateau. From there you can see the summit, which you now ascend almost directly.
Descent is via the same route. Two abseiling points are set up: the rocks at the Lombardi bivouac (steel bar or abseil sling around a rock block) and the III+ climbing section (abseil hook).
Tabarettahütte
Julius Payer Hütte (Rif. Julius Payer)
spOrtler-27
spOrtler-26
spOrtler-25
Lombardi Biwak
spOrtler-23
Ortler- der weiße Riese
Public transport
From Prad/Spondinig by bus line 271 in just over half an hour to Sulden. The bus stop is directly at the Sulden tourist office at the village entrance. From there on foot to the valley station of the K2/Langenstein chairlift.Directions
Either from Landeck (Tyrol) over the Reschen Pass or from Bolzano via the SS38 to Spondinig. From there over the Stilfserjoch road SS 38 to Gomagoi, then left to Sulden until just after the parish church. Over a bridge and then left into a small road leading to the valley station of the K2/Langenstein chairlift.Parking
At the valley station of the K2/Langenstein chairlift.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Regional guide "Ortler Alps" from Bergverlag R. Rother
High 3000ers in the Alps from Bruckmann Publishing
Author’s map recommendations
Topographic hiking map 1:25000 from Tabacco publishing
Sheet 08 - Ortler area (Ortles - Cevedale)
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal high alpine touring equipment sufficient (touring backpack, mountaineering boots suitable for crampons, touring clothing, rainwear, gloves, headlamp, drinking bottle, sun protection, bivouac sack, first aid kit, hip harness, rockfall helmet, 1 safety carabiner Ball-Lock, 2 HMS carabiners, 2-3 snap carabiners, 3-4 quickdraws, crampons with front points, 1-2 ice screws, ice axe, one long and one short prusik sling, 2 slings, anchor sling, figure eight descender).Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions