Hochfeiler north face

From the third hairpin bend (1720 m), follow the trail in an easterly direction (at the beginning, skis usually have to be shouldered) until you reach the flat Issen-Boden (approx. 1850 m). If the spring is not yet too far advanced, it is often possible to continue ascending from this point with skis on. We gently ascend orographically to the right of the Oberbergbach stream up to approx. 2100 metres. We quickly gain altitude via the now steeper Grießebenkar and soon reach the Günther Messner bivouac box at 2429 metres. After a short flat section, the steep ascent to the Grießscharte (2811 m) follows on the left. With the first rays of sunshine on the saddle, it is now time to ski down, as the Rötkees has now retreated a long way, exposing a steep snow and rock gully. The descent down to the glacier floor should be made quickly, as falling rocks can be expected from the rock faces at any time. Once you have overcome this hurdle, it's time to skin up again. Cross the gently ascending Rötkees with a slight gain in altitude and head for a small notch in the middle of a rocky rib at approx. 2850 metres. Under no circumstances should you climb too far south, as the transition to the Schlegeiskees is somewhat problematic there, but also the danger of falling rocks from the north face of the Hochfernerspitze should not be underestimated. Crossing the rocky ridge takes you to the rugged Schlegeiskees. With the mighty Hochfeiler north face already in sight, the route is once again easy up to the foot of the wall at around 3160 metres, where you enter the wall slightly to the left. Now swap your skis and poles for a crampon, crampons and helmet. Once you have overcome the often large crevasse, the wall is initially quite gentle at 45°. However, it soon steepens up to 50° to 52°. We ascend in a direct line, keeping a little to the left to avoid possible rockfall from the rock faces. At up to 55°, the last third requires full concentration once again in order to be able to master the possible rockfall spots before exiting the wall. The final ascent to the summit initially leads over a broad ridge, but finally turns into a short, steep and somewhat exposed ridge.

From the summit, we then follow the ridge for a short distance, then soon turn northwards and descend the first 100 metres in altitude over the slopes, which are up to 40° steep, to the Weißkarferner. We descend almost 1500 metres in altitude until we reach the extensive basin of the Gliderfernerbach stream. Before the stream disappears into the mighty gorge, a steep and narrow east-facing gully runs westwards for around 200 metres up to Mahdbichl. Initially, there are numerous hairpin bends through the gully, but in the upper third it is better to shoulder your skis. Once you have mastered this last ascent, the descent through the Unterbergtal now follows. Passing the Bichl-Unterberghütte (1838 m), you soon reach the bridge over the Oberbergbach stream, which you cross. From here, it is only a few steps to the starting point.