Großglockner via the northwest ridge

From the Stüdlhütte, you first ascend steeply northwards and reach the much flatter Teischnitzkees after a terrain edge. Parallel to the Luisengrat on the right-hand side, you proceed over the glacier almost directly northwards. You pass below the Luisenscharte and turn slightly left to reach the steep southern gully at the end of the Großglockner west face, usually climbing up with an ice axe and crampons to the Lower Glockner notch (3596 m).

After the Lower Glockner notch, you bypass the rock tooth of the Teufelshorn on the south side. Then you continue climbing over the Glocknerhorn (3680 m) to the Grögers ridge (3660 m). Finally, the upper northwest ridge leads to Austria's highest summit.

For the descent, you first descend over rock slabs to the airy Upper Glockner notch (steel cable), then cross the exposed Kleinglockner again (safety rods). Afterwards, a steep gully leads to the left down to the broad ridge of the Glocknerleitl, over which you descend southeast to the Erzherzog Johann Hut. From the hut, you follow the rock ridge secured by steel cables to the so-called Kampl, where steel cables lead to the right (west) further over rocky terrain down to the Ködnitzkees. The glacier is crossed in the same direction (watch out for transverse crevasses). Then you turn left (south) and descend straight down the gentle glacier basin. Finally, the rock spur is bypassed on the left before crossing right to the Stüdlhütte.