Großglockner (3,798 m) North Face - Pallavicini Gully

From the Franz-Josefs-Height, follow the marked path down along the funicular to the valley floor onto the former Pasterze (approx. 300 m altitude difference). At the lake below, walk westwards following the three-legged signs. For the ascent to the first terrace under the Großglockner north face, there are various options depending on prevailing conditions. Then you walk a bit towards the small Burgstall, before ascending the crevassed glacier in a large arc to the southwest (left). Later you can keep more to the ridge to climb directly onto the rock where the bivouac box stands (Section II). Or if there is enough snow/ice (up to 35 degrees), you can also reach the Glockner bivouac clearly northwards (left) of the ridge.

From the bivouac box, proceed flatly southeastwards to the entrance (watch out for crevasses!). At a suitable spot, overcome the bergschrund and ascend through the snow and ice cone via the narrow passage (cannon barrel). Leave the ice and rockfall gully as quickly as possible to the left (east) and continue ascending the firn, which can be up to 55 degrees steep. On our ascent, the gully was bare ice at the top, so we had to secure two rope lengths in the ice. The first bolts are located here. Now staying in the gully, ascend in two rope lengths through brittle rock and ice to the upper Glockner notch. Here the key point at rock grade III+ must be overcome. There are some bolts available, but additional protection with friends and nuts is recommended. From the notch, continue northwest (right) in solid bedrock for 15 minutes to the highest mountain of Austria. The effort of the ascent is rewarded with a breathtaking 360° panorama!

From the summit, descend again about 40 meters in easy climbing (UIAA I-II, bolt) down to the Glockner notch (protection rod). Carefully cross the exposed notch and climb up the fixed rope on the far side to the Kleinglockner. Now follow the protection rods in easy climbing (UIAA I-II) always along the exposed ridge. First still flat, then partly steeply downwards to the shoulder. Here we go east down the Glocknerleitl on about 40-degree steep ice. I found the Glocknerleitl easier early in the season (firn and ice) during my ascents than later in the season when partly bare spots and loose scree caused additional difficulties. On the Glocknerleitl, only a few protection possibilities remain far up at the northern edge (bolts in the rock). Then continue on the Hofmann glacier (watch out for crevasses!) southeastwards (keeping right) initially very flat. Later it becomes up to 35 degrees steep and you follow the fall line down to the Pasterze. Cross the Pasterze and ascend on the marked path back to the Franz-Josefs-Height. After a long day, the counter ascent is very tiring, especially as motivation is usually already very low!

The time indications and altitude differences refer to the 2nd day starting from the bivouac box.