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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Mont Blanc Massif

Dent Geant 4013m

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  • Dent Geant 4013m
    Dent Geant 4013m
    Photo: Thomas Nippgen, Archiv Thomas Nippgen

Selected alternatives for you
    A steep peak in the Mont-Blanc area with fantastic panoramic views
    difficult
    Distance 2.6 km
    6:30 h
    560 m
    40 m
    4,013 m
    3,302 m
    Difficulty
    AD+V+<30° difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    4,013 m
    Lowest point
    3,302 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    with bolts, pitons
    Protection
    with bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Roadbook

    From the hut to the Col du Geant plateau, past the foothills of the Aiguilles Marbreees, to the rock base of Dent Geant. Through a couloir or on the right rocks to a shoulder right of a gendarme. From there up a rock ridge (partly with footsteps) to yellow towers, passing these on the right to the base of Dent du Geant. Here the path splits and you go left to a terrace-like platform, the breakfast spot (up to here mixed terrain and climbing sections of grade II).

    From there, traverse about 20m horizontally to the left to an edge and briefly following a thin fixed rope to an anchor point. From there, keeping left to a gully and up it until just below a ledge. Now over a notable climbing section (4b, extremely tricky when icy) up to this ledge at the start of the Burgener plates. Here start the fixed ropes resembling ship ropes. Follow the fixed ropes through crack-riddled slabs to the next anchor point (4a). From there, ascending left over a flaky rock slab (crucial section 5c - free climbed!). Then over easier terrain to the foot of a chimney-like corner. Up through this to a ledge on the ridge (4c). Here the fixed ropes end for now.

    Now continue up the ridge until just below the sub-peak (locally 4a). The sub-peak is bypassed on the south side and you come to a fixed sling, over which you get into the notch between the two summits. From the notch up a small wall (3b) to the summit (here fixed ropes again).

    Descent: From the summit down to the notch and then exposed, traverse briefly into the south face to the first abseil point. Then follow the abseil line down to the breakfast spot. From there retrace the ascent path back to the Turin hut.

    Rest stop
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    Photo
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    Dent du Geant (4013m)
    Einstieg Dent du Geant (Normalweg)
    Col des Flambeaux
    Rifugio Torino
    Aiguille de Rochefort
    Rifugio Torino, 3375m

    Coordinates

    DD
    45.845109, 6.933710
    DMS
    45°50'42.4"N 6°56'01.4"E
    UTM
    32T 339557 5078914
    w3w 
    ///bumping.magical.plunder
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Area guide Mont-Blanc group from Bergverlag Rother

    Author’s map recommendations

    IGN France 1.25000 - Sheet 231 Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere-Jorasses

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    AD+V+<30° difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.6 km
    Duration
    6:30 h
    Ascent
    560 m
    Descent
    40 m
    Highest point
    4,013 m
    Lowest point
    3,302 m
    Scenic Summit route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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