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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Ötztaler Alpen

Crossing from Breslauer Hut to Taschachhaus

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  • Photo: Martin Berger, DAV Sektion Breslau (Sitz Stuttg.)

Selected alternatives for you
    For this equally impressive and high alpine hut crossing, good alpine experience is required.
    moderate
    Distance 10.9 km
    4:00 h
    629 m
    1,043 m
    3,471 m
    2,432 m
    Because even the steep ascent to the Mitterkarjoch runs on a short but partially somewhat exposed via ferrata. Immediately afterwards you have to rope up, as crevasse danger on the Taschach Glacier must not be underestimated.

    Author’s recommendation

    Those who start early can additionally climb the Wildspitze on the hut crossing, which is the highest peak in Tyrol.
    Difficulty
    moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    3,471 m
    Lowest point
    2,432 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW

    Track types

    Path 34.31%Traces of trail 52.89%Unknown 12.78%
    Path
    3.7 km
    Traces of trail
    5.7 km
    Unknown
    1.4 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Good visibility conditions should prevail on the wide glacier surfaces.

    Tips and suggestions

    www.breslauerhuette.at

    www.taschachhaus.com

    Roadbook

    From the Breslauer Hut, follow the clear mountain path, which ascends northwest below the Urkundkopf into the wide Mitterkar. Here it bypasses two large rocky ridges coming from the Wildspitze on their west side and then goes right for a short stretch into the uppermost cirque of the former Mitterkar Glacier. Here, turn left and climb steeply with the aid of steel cables and footholds up to the Mitterkarjoch, which provides the transition to the upper Taschach Glacier. (An optional ascent of the Wildspitze is possible here to the right). Follow the Taschach Glacier descending slightly for a short distance to the west and then turn right to bypass the glacier break on the right in a wide arc.

    Now go continuously northwest, still slightly descending towards the Mittelberg Joch visible from afar. However, do not ascend to the right to the Joch but remain below and approach the rocky flank rising to the left of the Joch. Then turn slightly left, descend mildly in the middle of the glacier, and then turn right again to head fairly flat towards the rocky lateral moraine where cairns are visible. After climbing onto the moraine, follow always along its edge to the west. Pass by an ice lake; beyond it, the path is exposed for a short stretch. After the path leads more steeply downhill in switchbacks, it reaches a terrain ledge and turns left towards the glacier. (Signposted "Taschachhaus", do not continue straight on the direct path into the Taschach Valley!) On an eroded path, descend to the glacier where crampons should be put on again as a short slope must be climbed that often has bare ice in high summer. Cross the flat glacier shelf to the west and reach the opposite lateral moraine at the height of a marker pole. Here you see various trail marks. You must pay close attention to the red markings and cairns and thus reach a clear path crossing the east flank of the Urkundkopf. The last exposed passages are easily overcome with the help of wire cables before you finally see the Taschachhaus below you.

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    Photo
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    Breslauer Hütte
    Taschach House
    Mitterkarjoch

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By train to Ötztal station and then by buses (change in Sölden) to Vent.

    Directions

    Via the Inntal motorway to the start of the Ötztal and through it via Sölden to Vent.

    Parking

    Paid parking lots in Vent.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.868088, 10.879278
    DMS
    46°52'05.1"N 10°52'45.4"E
    UTM
    32T 643222 5192219
    w3w 
    ///vertical.nuggets.afar
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    W. Klier, AV Guide Ötztal Alps, Rother Verlag.

    Author’s map recommendations

    AV Map 30/8, Ötztal Alps - Wildspitze, 1:25000

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Complete glacier climbing equipment.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    10.9 km
    Duration
    4:00 h
    Ascent
    629 m
    Descent
    1,043 m
    Highest point
    3,471 m
    Lowest point
    2,432 m
    Public-transport-friendly Scenic Linear route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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