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recommended route
Alpine Climbing
· Garda Trentino
Via del 46 Parallelo (Parete Zebrata)
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View from the parking lot to the Sonnenplatten. Marked in red: the route with ascent and descentPhoto: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main
The route runs directly to the left of a clearly visible, partly vegetated groove in the left part of the sun slabs and, unlike many other routes on the sun slabs, is more a classic wall climb than a slab climb.
The route was first climbed as early as 1969, the first on the sun slabs at that time, and is also one of the easiest routes (up to 4, mostly easier), so you are rarely alone here and should not be surprised that it is particularly quite worn in the first pitch. The belays are always on comfortable and spacious ledges and usually have at least 3, sometimes 4 bolts, so that 2 or if necessary even 3 rope teams can use them simultaneously.
The pitches are relatively short, so with a 60 m rope you can link 2 pitches each.
Author’s recommendation
- Take an overview of all routes. When standing directly at the rock and you find a marked route there but do not know by heart if it is right or left of the Via del 46 Parallelo, this makes it easier to find the start.
- Bring good footwear for the descent
- Bring enough water. Due to the east-facing aspect, the sun slabs are already in the sun very early, so it can still get summery warm even in October.
- After the route, a possibility to eat and drink in the Bar Parete Zebrata. This is also a base for base jumpers who jump down from the summit of Monte Brento.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
- At the exit and descent through the large scree field above the slabs, absolutely avoid rockfall to not endanger rope teams below
Roadbook
Approach:
From the parking lot on the SS45bis about 200 m north of the Bar Parete Zebrata, follow the path that leads directly to the slabs. You cross 2 forest roads, then keep slightly to the left and follow the path near the rocks in serpentine bends uphill through the scree. The start is located directly to the right of the Via Trento, which is clearly marked in red; the Via del 46 Parallelo is marked in fading blue.
You can also recognize the route from afar by the fact that in its area, the otherwise quite smooth slabs are interrupted by a vertically structured band partly with vegetation.
Route:
- Pitch (3+, 4 bolts, approx. 28 m)
Already quite worn from many ascents, therefore partly a bit slippery and harder than officially stated. Few possibilities for traditional placements. - Pitch (2+, 4 bolts, approx. 28 m)
Easy - Pitch (up to 4, 6 bolts, 30 m)
Hardest pitch of the route, but in our impression less worn than the 1st pitch and therefore practically not harder. It is also possible to move slightly right (into the groove), which obviously is less frequented. - Pitch (up to 3, 4 bolts, 28 m)
Initially stepped, then slabby but grippy and not worn - Pitch (up to 3+, 4 bolts, 20 m)
No problem, grippy - Pitch (up to 2+, 2 bolts, 22 m)
Again slabby, but not worn - Pitch (2, 1 bolt, 15 m)
From the belay, briefly over an edge, where you look out over the large scree field above the sun slabs. Belay with sling on a tree, from there a few meters to the descent path, where conveniently a wooden board lies so that you can use it as a bench for a break.
Descent:
Follow the path downhill to the left. You cross the entire left part of the sun slabs, so triggering rockfall must definitely be avoided. Eventually the path reaches a groove, steeply down through it or along its right edge until the lower edge of the slabs is reached. From there continue downhill on the path at some distance, past the route’s start and back to the parking lot as on the approach.
Brento Base Transfer
Einstieg der Tour Rita in der Parete de Zebrate
Ausstieg Klettertour Rita in der Sonnenplatte (Parete Zebrate)
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Bus stop at the Bar Parete Zebrata.
Timetable: see Trentinotrasporti
From there about 200 m on foot along the road to the parking lot and starting point of the route.
Directions
From Dro on the SS45bis about 3.5 km north, past the Bar Parete Zebrata (there is also a parking lot, but less suitable as a starting point), until you come after 200 m to another parking lot on the left (west) side of the road.Parking
At the parking lot about 200 m north of the Bar Parete Zebrata. There is also a large overview board with the main climbing routes, which can help you orient yourself roughly.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
- Description and topo on Bergsteigen.com
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
- At least 40 m single rope, 60 m rope if you want to link pitches
- 8 quickdraws
- One small cam
- Helmet
- Sturdy shoes for the descent
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions