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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Berchtesgaden Alps

Signalkopf - direct north face

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  • Signalkopf direct north face - topo - overview image with route
    Signalkopf direct north face - topo - overview image with route
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Section Teisendorf

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    Anyone who knows the mountain range of the Lattengebirge will be surprised by the solid and rough rock in the Signalkopf north face. The sport climbing route is well equipped and offers nice wall climbing with cracks, corners, and few slabby sections.
    moderate
    Distance 5.7 km
    5:00 h
    700 m
    700 m
    1,396 m
    690 m
    The sport climbing route on the Middle Rotofen (which is also what Signalkopf is called here) is not long with 4 pitches, and the approach is doable in an hour. Thus, the route is an alpine multi-pitch route that can be done in half a day. The view of the Chiemgau Alps (Hochstaufen, Zwiesel…) is very beautiful throughout the entire route!

    Author’s recommendation

    A half-day north face climbing route is recommended on warm summer afternoons.
    Difficulty
    VI+6a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Signalkopf, 1,396 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot Hallthurm, 690 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    600 m, 1:15 h
    Wall height
    100 m
    Climbing length
    125 m, 2:15 h
    Descent
    700 m, 1:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    Flatscher, Rieser 1924

    Track types

    Dirt road 17.85%Forested/wild trail 75.25%Path 3.06%No marked trail 3.82%
    Dirt road
    1 km
    Forested/wild trail
    4.3 km
    Path
    175 m
    No marked trail
    219 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Unfortunately, some bolts appear to have been removed on this route by opponents of fixed anchors. On my ascent (2015), everything was fine, and hopefully it stays that way!

    Tips and suggestions

    Tourist information: Bad Reichenhall, Bischofswiesen, news from the Kletteronkel

    Roadbook

    Starting from the parking lot, go 500m along the forest road southward, then turn right onto the footpath towards Rotofensattel. The path proceeds shaded in switchbacks upward, later passing a wayside cross and a viewpoint. Where the path becomes steeper again in small switchbacks at about 1200m elevation, go west (right) under the north face into a small trail. It is recommended to stash your backpack here, out of view from the marked path. Then continue directly under the wall up to the start. A few meters west (right) of the start is a small cave with a memorial plaque.

    With the topo, the route should be easy to find. For the last pitch, there is a variation on the right. Berg Heil!

    The descent from the summit follows the normal route initially westward, before downclimbing (Grade II) to the south side. Then follow the path traces to Rotofensattel and on the marked path back to the backpacks and on the familiar way down to the car/train station.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
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    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Wanderparkplatz Hallthurm
    Einstieg Klettertour Signalkopf Nordwand
    Signalkopf (=Mittlerer Rotofen)
    Rotofensattel

    Public transport

    From the Intercity train station Freilassing take the regional train (BLB) to the Hallthurm stop. The same route is also served by the S3 directly from Salzburg.

    Directions

    We leave the A8 Munich-Salzburg at the Bad Reichenhall exit and follow the signs to Bad Reichenhall. In the south of Bad Reichenhall, we leave the bypass road, then immediately turn right, go straight over the roundabout and right again at the traffic light, always following the signs for Bischofswiesen/Berchtesgaden. Now following the road, we come to the Hallturm mountain pass road. At the top, turn right into the parking lot 500m after the railway crossing.

    Parking

    free and shaded hiking parking lot Hallthurm

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.696703, 12.935351
    DMS
    47°41'48.1"N 12°56'07.3"E
    UTM
    33T 345088 5284655
    w3w 
    ///ravished.tablecloths.intricate
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    For the nearby area, the alpine climbing guides Berchtesgaden East and West (soon to be published) are recommended www.panico.de - A larger area is covered by the also very good guide Genussklettern Austria Central from Alpinverlag www.alpinverlag.at

    Author’s map recommendations

    Alpine Club map Bavarian Alps BY 22 Berchtesgaden Untersberg 1:25000 www.dav-shop.de

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Climbing equipment with 50m single rope, 10 quickdraws, and a set of nuts

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions

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    Difficulty
    VI+6a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    5.7 km
    Duration
    5:00 h
    Ascent
    700 m
    Descent
    700 m
    Highest point
    1,396 m
    Lowest point
    690 m
    Round trip Scenic Geological highlights Summit route Wall Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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