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Alpine Climbing
· Traunsee-Almtal
Schermberg North Face, Welser Path
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Schermberg north face, seen from the Almtaler house.Photo: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
Magnificent long route that is second to none!
The north face of Schermberg is considered the second highest face in the Eastern Alps with 1400 meters elevation and is only surpassed by the Watzmann east face (1800 m). And this, although this mountain from the southern plateau (from the Priel) looks like just a "mugel" (bump).
The Welser path is the easiest route through this magnificent face. The normal line does not exceed the upper 2nd difficulty grade and ends near the Almtaler Köpfl at the Tassilo via ferrata, 200 meters below the summit. This line can be climbed ropeless by experienced climbers.
More beautiful are the grade 3 variants in solid rock, for which rope protection is advised. The exit via the "ridge path" is certainly the icing on the cake. The last 200 vertical meters are also made on the Tassilo via ferrata.
For this length, the route is surprisingly well equipped with bolts, namely where there is a risk of falling. The bolts are also helpful for orientation. Nevertheless, the route is only suitable for experienced mountaineers with alpine experience and very good fitness!
The long gully in the first part surprises with a lot of friction climbing on smooth rock and is also impressive in terms of landscape.
Due to the length of the route, an overnight stay at the Welser Hütte is recommended.
The given data applies to the exit via the more difficult ridge path.
Attention, hunting closure:
From September 15 to October 15, access to the Almtalerhaus is closed due to hunting and the Welser Hütte is not operated.
Important note:
The track only roughly indicates the direction. Please pay attention to the description and do not rely on GPS coordinates.
Difficulty: 3+, on the easiest line 2+.
Rock quality: 3 out of 4 (good). Naturally also many (benign) broken rocks, but firm rock at difficult sections.
Protection: 2 out of 4 (moderate). Large bolt hangers and Bühlers in irregular intervals.
Base points:
Almtaler Haus (714m, ÖAV).
Welser Hütte (1726m, ÖAV).
Information status: August 2022
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
There are two escape options:1) From the first gravel field over the "Upper approach" to the left, along the 2nd base of the wall, ascending and descending to the Welserhütten path.
2) From the lower end of the Large scree field to the left over ledges to the chamois meadow. From there heading east keeping right over broken terrain to the marked path.
Roadbook
Approach: 4 km / 320 m elevation gain / 1:15 hrs.
From the Almtaler Haus on the marked path towards Welser Hütte up to the base of the wall. Here the path leads left upwards into steep terrain. The start is a few meters to the right below in the gravelly streambed at the base of the wall, at the steep slabby wall bay with water streaks. Altitude approx. 1030 m.
Route: 1200 m elevation gain / 6:00 hrs.
From the streambed (slabby wall bay) on a narrow ledge upward to the right over the poor-grip slab to the first bolt hanger. Follow the sometimes faint path traces, see topo. If you find the bolt hangers, you are on the right track.
Descent: 1700 m elevation loss / 3:30 hrs.
a) From the exit descend directly via the Tassilo via ferrata (D) to Welser Hütte.
b) Ascend via the upper part of the via ferrata (B/C) to the Schermberg summit and descend via the marked trail to Welser Hütte (additional 1 hour).
[ c) Without using the steel cable ascend via the northeast ridge to the Schermberg summit, described in the AV guide under margin number 546 and rated difficulty 2. ]
[ d) Climbing descent from Almtaler Köpfl, difficulty 1-2, described in the AV guide under margin number 560 on ascent: Climb down southeast through a chimney series, then over gentler terrain southwards (towards the pyramid-shaped Sauzahn), until you reach the marked Schermberg path below the Sauzahn north face. Follow this left to Welser Hütte. ]
From Welser Hütte in good 2 hours to Almtaler Haus.
Variant:
Upper approach
Favorable if starting from Welser Hütte.
You branch off from the marked path exactly in the middle between “Stundenbaum” and “Militärbankerl” and cross to the 2nd part of the Welser path.
a) From Welser Hütte downwards towards Almtaler Haus to “Militärbankerl” (rest bench with boards under a large rock block). From the bench still 10 short switchbacks downwards on the path. About 0:45 hrs.
b) From Almtaler Haus towards Welser Hütte to “Stundenbaum” (tree with trail sign “Welser Hütte 1 hr.”). From here still 10 short switchbacks upwards on the path. About 2:00 hrs. –
At this point the path comes within 6 meters of a railing ridge, behind which is a gorge-like channel. Cross 6 m through dwarf pines to the ridge and 50 m straight upwards to the 2nd base of the wall (1..2). Along the right side of the 2nd base of the wall, ascending and descending, to the terrain edge with the rock head and the Hermann Traidl memorial plaque where you meet the Welser path. About 0:20 hrs.
Public transport
No public transport connection to Almtaler Haus.
Directions
From the Westautobahn (A1) or the Pyhrnautobahn (A9) via Pettenbach to Grünau im Almtal. Continue towards Almsee, but before the lake (in Habernau, near the inn Jagersimmerl) turn towards Almtaler Haus. Park at the end of the road near Almtaler Haus.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Alpine Club guide to Totes Gebirge by Gisbert Rabeder.
Author’s map recommendations
Alpine club map Totes Gebirge Mitte
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Alpine climbing equipment with helmet and sturdy footwear. For the more difficult grade 3 variants additionally a 50m single rope, 6 quickdraws, and climbing shoes.
If you want to descend via the Tassilo via ferrata (difficulty up to D), a via ferrata set is also necessary.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions