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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Wolfgangsee region

Plombergstein Taxus

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Alpenverein Salzburg Verified partner 
  • Plombergstein - approximate route of the "Taxus"
    Plombergstein - approximate route of the "Taxus"
    Photo: Manfred Karl, Alpenverein Salzburg

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    The "Taxus" runs in the southeast face of Plombergstein between the routes "Roberto" and "Edelweiß".

    moderate
    Distance 2.4 km
    2:45 h
    220 m
    220 m
    830 m
    630 m

    Besides the route "Irma la Douce," the "Taxus" is one of the easiest routes on Plombergstein. Beautiful climbing passages alternate with earthy sections and walking terrain. The good protection also makes the route suitable for beginners.

    Author’s recommendation

    The "Taxus" can be easily combined with one of the many other routes on Plombergstein.

    During the bathing season, you can end the climbing day with a jump into the clear waters of Wolfgangsee.

    Difficulty
    IV+4a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Plombergstein, 830 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot on B 158, 630 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    80 m, 0:30 h
    Wall height
    145 m
    Climbing length
    235 m, 1:45 h
    Descent
    220 m, 0:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    12

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Due to the earthy sections, dry conditions should prevail on the route.

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    On Reitnerstraße, which starts at the lower end of the parking lot, past some houses toward Plombergstein. In a left curve, a gravel path branches off horizontally into the forest (signpost Plombergstein). Follow the path, then cross the stream, go below the AV climbing garden and downstream to another signpost. Here turn left into the forest to the starting pillar of the Taxus route (metal plate), to the right is the direct start (metal plate "Schneiders Direkter").

    You can also climb up from the climbing garden to the WC hut and follow the narrow path immediately along the base of the walls. Past the routes "Filou," "Clou," and "Roberto" to a handrail cable and along it down to the "Taxus."

    Route progression:

    1st pitch: First a few meters up to the left (1), then straight up over beautiful jug plates (4- and 3) to the pillar head. Over a metal ladder to overcome the following earthy slope and make a belay above at a tree, 40 m, bolts and slings. The direct start is slightly to the right of the normal start over the steep, well-gripped wall (4+).

    2nd pitch: On walking terrain to the right to a ledge (2, bolt), over it and left to the belay at a ring, 20 m.

    3rd pitch: First straight up, then diagonally upward to the right and again straight over beautiful slabs to a fixed rope. Along this over earthy terrain to the next belay, 40 m, 3, 2 and 3, possibly briefly 3+, several bolts and slings.

    4th pitch: Over several rock steps (2, then 3) straight, then diagonally up to the right and over slabs (3, 3+) to a ledge. Above over the small-grip slab (4+, 3 bolts, also climbable A0) very nicely to the belay, 50 m, numerous bolts and slings.

    5th pitch: The following beautiful slab (3, 3-, bolts) about 20 m up, then on walking terrain to the right to a ledge. From the left comes "Roberto" over. Over the ledge (2) to the belay at the "Taxus" climbing logbook, 50 m. About 3 m further to the right is the climbing log cassette of "Äskulap/Edelweiß."

    6th pitch: The exit pitch leads over beautiful, easy slabs, finally diagonally up to the right to the belay left of the bench, 35 m, 2 and 2+, bolts and slings. You can also traverse from the climbing log to "Äskulap" and exit over it (3 and 3+).

    Descent:

    From the bench a few meters over easy rock steps into the forest and right behind the Plomberghütte to the signpost. Descend on one of the marked hiking trails into the saddle north of the summit; the left path is a bit unpleasant when wet. From the saddle west on the easy path and over several metal ladders down to the climbing garden and back to the parking lot via the approach path.

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    Parkplatz an der B 158

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    From Salzburg main station, regional line 150 runs regularly via St. Gilgen to Bad Ischl and back (stop St. Gilgen Mozartblick).

    Bus info at: https://salzburg-verkehr.at/fahrplaene/fahrplandownload/

    Directions

    On the B 158 via Hof towards St. Gilgen, until you pass the parking lot with a view of Wolfgangsee above St. Gilgen (parking lot Mühlradl). On the opposite side of the street, diagonally across, there is also a parking lot. You can also come here from St. Gilgen via Mondsee – Scharfling (B 154) or from the direction of Bad Ischl. In this case, the parking lot is 700 m after the roundabout on the right-hand side. Please park exclusively in this mountain-side parking lot; all other possibilities along the access path (Reitnerstraße) to Plombergstein are on private property!

    Parking

    Mountain-side parking lot at the beginning of Reitnerstraße, 630 m

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.772968, 13.353909
    DMS
    47°46'22.7"N 13°21'14.1"E
    UTM
    33T 376672 5292379
    w3w 
    ///longing.livened.star
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    50 m single rope, 12 quickdraws, possibly some slings for sand clocks, helmet

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV+4a moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.4 km
    Duration
    2:45 h
    Ascent
    220 m
    Descent
    220 m
    Highest point
    830 m
    Lowest point
    630 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Wall Slab Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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