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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Wolfgangsee region

Plombergstein Roberto

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Alpenverein Salzburg Verified partner 
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    Easy to find
    Photo: Manfred Karl, Alpenverein Salzburg

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    One of the younger "creations" at Plombergstein is the "Roberto," running just to the right of the route "Clou." In character, it is similar to the neighboring routes.

    moderate
    Distance 2.4 km
    2:45 h
    220 m
    220 m
    830 m
    630 m

    Like other routes at Plombergstein, the "Roberto" had to be cleared of a lot of vegetation to make it somewhat climbing-friendly. The result is a route that is somewhat less homogeneous compared to the others but still spiced with nice climbing sections and thus quite rewarding. Due to the good protection with bolts and sand clock slings, it is also suitable for beginners.

    Author’s recommendation

    The "Roberto" can be well combined with one of the numerous other routes at Plombergstein.

    You can end the day during the bathing season with a jump into the clear water of Lake Wolfgang.

    Difficulty
    V-4b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Plombergstein, 830 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot on the B 158, 630 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    80 m, 0:25 h
    Wall height
    130 m
    Climbing length
    270 m, 1:45 h
    Descent
    220 m, 0:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    sporadic bolts, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    11

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Because of the many earthy passages, you should wait one or two days after rain; otherwise, you will not enjoy the route.

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    On Reitnerstraße, which starts at the lower end of the parking lot, pass some houses heading towards Plombergstein. In a left curve, a gravel path branches off horizontally into the forest (Plombergstein signpost). Follow the path, then over the stream, underneath the AV climbing garden and downstream to another signpost. Here, turn left into the forest toward the starting pillar of the route Taxus. Climb up to the left of it, after the railing cable along the base of the wall, a few meters further left to the start (metal plate: "Roberto").

    You can also ascend more directly and with less altitude loss from the climbing garden to the WC house and follow the narrow trail that runs right at the foot of the walls. Shortly before the railing cable, after the "Clou," you reach the start of the "Roberto." Good belay spot between "Roberto" and the railing cable.

    Route progression:

    1st pitch: A few meters steeply up (4/4+), then easier (3) onto an earthy ledge and right to the belay, 35 m, bolts and slings.

    2nd pitch: Over the overhang (2 bolts, 5- or A0) and a slab up to belay, 15 m.

    3rd pitch: Slightly to the left, over the next slab and earthy sections to the next belay, initially 3, then 3- and 2, bolts and slings, 20 m.

    4th pitch: Over a small wall and past a rock block secured with an iron bracket to a slab leading to the belay, 3, then 2, the slab 3 and 4, bolts.

    5th pitch: Beautiful slabs lead straight up to the belay, 25 m, initially 4/4+, then 3, several bolts and slings.

    6th pitch: Shortly to the left, then straight up, 25 m, 3 and 4- or 4, many slings.

    7th pitch: On the ledge about 5 m horizontally to the right, then straight over the slab and again right on an earthy ledge (railing cable) to the belay, 30 m, 4/4+, then 3 and 4, bolts and slings.

    8th pitch: The ledge continues further right, past the "Roberto" logbook in hiking terrain as far right as the logbooks of "Taxus" and "Äskulap/Edelweiß" can be seen. Over a short wall step (2) to the logbook of "Taxus" or about 3 m further right upwards to the belay near the other logbook, 55 m or 58 m, hiking terrain, few meters 2, some bolts.

    9th pitch: The exit rope length either left over "Taxus" (2+ and 2) or right over "Äskulap" (3+ and 3). The belay at the end of both pitches is left next to the bench at the end of the routes, 35 m, bolts and slings.

    Descent:

    From the bench, a few meters over simple rock steps into the forest and right behind the Plomberghütte to the signpost. Descend to the saddle north of the summit on one of the marked hiking trails, the left path is a bit unpleasant when wet. From the saddle, westward on the comfortable path and over several metal ladders down to the climbing garden and back to the parking lot on the approach path.

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    Parkplatz an der B 158

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    From Salzburg main station, the regional line 150 regularly runs via St. Gilgen to Bad Ischl and back (stop St. Gilgen Mozartblick).

    Bus info at: https://salzburg-verkehr.at/fahrplaene/fahrplandownload/

    Directions

    On the B 158 via Hof in the direction of St. Gilgen, until you pass the parking lot with the view of Lake Wolfgang above St. Gilgen (parking Mühlradl). On the other side of the road diagonally opposite there is also a parking lot. Also accessible from St. Gilgen via Mondsee – Scharfling (B 154) or from the direction of Bad Ischl. In this case, the parking lot is located 700 m after the roundabout on the right side of the road. Please park exclusively in this mountain-side parking lot; all other possibilities on the approach path (Reitnerstraße) to Plombergstein are on private property!

    Parking

    Mountain-side parking lot at the beginning of Reitnerstraße, 630 m

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.772968, 13.353909
    DMS
    47°46'22.7"N 13°21'14.1"E
    UTM
    33T 376672 5292379
    w3w 
    ///longing.livened.star
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    60 m single rope, 11 quickdraws, possibly some slings for sand clocks, helmet

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    V-4b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.4 km
    Duration
    2:45 h
    Ascent
    220 m
    Descent
    220 m
    Highest point
    830 m
    Lowest point
    630 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Wall Slab Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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