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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Wolfgangsee region

Plombergstein Irma la Douce

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  • Approximate course of the route "Irma la Douce"
    Approximate course of the route "Irma la Douce"
    Photo: Manfred Karl, Alpenverein Salzburg

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    "Irma la Douce" is located on the west side of the Plombergstein north summit and is the easiest of all multi-pitch routes on Plomberg.

    moderate
    Distance 2.3 km
    2:30 h
    245 m
    245 m
    865 m
    630 m

    The climbing route formerly known as Sanduhrenweg and now called "Irma la Douce" is one of the oldest on Plombergstein and was neglected for years like Sleeping Beauty. This has clearly changed. It runs over a narrow pillar and has very beautiful, climbing-friendly rock. The route is well protected with bolts and sand timer slings. Ideal for beginners.

    Author’s recommendation

    The "Irma la Douce" route can be well combined with one of the numerous other routes on Plombergstein.

    During the bathing season, you can end the climbing day with a jump into the clear water of Lake Wolfgang.

    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Exit Irma la Douce, 865 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot on the B 158, 630 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    75 m, 0:30 h
    Wall height
    160 m
    Climbing length
    230 m, 1:30 h
    Descent
    245 m, 0:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts, trad gear
    Protection
    sporadic bolts, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    8
    First ascent
    unknown

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    "Irma la Douce" also features earthy passages, so dry conditions should prevail.

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    On the access road (Reitnerstraße), which begins at the lower end of the parking lot, past some residential houses towards Plombergstein. In a left curve, a gravel path branches off horizontally to the right into the forest (signpost Plombergstein). Follow it, cross the stream and continue for a few minutes more in the same direction (upstream), until a flat forest clearing is visible on the right (still before reaching a meadow). Along this forest floor next to a shallow ditch towards the rocks. Climb up left between moss-covered blocks to the start, metal plate "Irma la Douce", slightly right above is the plate "Rentnerweg".

    Route description:

    1st pitch: From the start climb quite straight up (3). After a light wall keep slightly right (4), then straight up again (3) to the belay on a rock head, 35 m, several bolts. Shortly before that the old start (3) joins from the right.

    2nd pitch: Straight on over very beautiful slabby rock with giant handles 40 m to belay in a large hollow, right two spruce trees, also a tree in the middle, belay by it, 2+, several slings with quickdraws.

    3rd pitch: Slightly right of the tree steeply up to another tree, then straight up to sling quickdraw, a bit left and straight up again (several quickdraws) to grass ledge. Belay 5 m above, 45 m, 3+ and 3.

    4th pitch: 2 m left and straight over the slab, then a bit left, lastly with a stem step left to sling quickdraw and straight up again to belay at a tree or 2 m left above it at good quickdraw, 45 m, 5 m 4-, otherwise 3, some quickdraws and bolts.

    5th pitch: On gentle terrain diagonally up to the left, then almost horizontal to the left through forest to the foot of the last rock rise. Belay at a tree or better 3–4 meters diagonally left of it at quickdraw, 25 m, hiking terrain and 1-, quickdraw and bolts.

    6th pitch: Keep right going up past two trees, then as soon as possible left again and straight up over increasingly flat slabs (sling quickdraws) to rock head, belay at thick root, 38 m, 2+, 2, 3- and 1. End of climbing.

    Descent:

    From the exit southwards through the forest out onto the ridge and follow the trail tracks descending towards Plombergstein. Follow the easiest options near the ridge until the terrain gets steeper. Short rock steps lead to the start of the cable protection. Over a steep ramp (B, exposed) between overhanging rock walls down into the saddle in front of Plombergstein and to the hiking path. From here turn right downhill into the hollow and past the AV climbing garden back to the starting point.

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    Photo
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    Parkplatz an der B 158

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    From Salzburg main station, regional line 150 runs regularly via St. Gilgen to Bad Ischl and back (stop St. Gilgen Mozartblick).

    Bus info at: https://salzburg-verkehr.at/fahrplaene/fahrplandownload/

    Directions

    On the B 158 via Hof towards St. Gilgen until you pass the parking lot with a view of Lake Wolfgang above St. Gilgen (Mühlradl parking lot). On the opposite side of the street there is also a parking lot diagonally opposite. Also accessible from St. Gilgen via Mondsee – Scharfling (B 154) or from the direction of Bad Ischl. This parking lot is 700 m after the roundabout on the right side. Please park exclusively in this mountain-side parking lot; all other options on the approach road (Reitnerstraße) to Plombergstein are on private property!

    Parking

    Mountain side parking lot at the beginning of Reitnerstraße, 630 m

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.772961, 13.353925
    DMS
    47°46'22.7"N 13°21'14.1"E
    UTM
    33T 376673 5292378
    w3w 
    ///strongholds.henceforth.turnaround
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    50 m single rope, 8 quickdraws, possibly some slings for sand timers, helmet

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.3 km
    Duration
    2:30 h
    Ascent
    245 m
    Descent
    245 m
    Highest point
    865 m
    Lowest point
    630 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Wall Slab Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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