"Irma la Douce" is located on the west side of the Plombergstein north summit and is the easiest of all multi-pitch routes on Plomberg.
The climbing route formerly known as Sanduhrenweg and now called "Irma la Douce" is one of the oldest on Plombergstein and was neglected for years like Sleeping Beauty. This has clearly changed. It runs over a narrow pillar and has very beautiful, climbing-friendly rock. The route is well protected with bolts and sand timer slings. Ideal for beginners.
Author’s recommendation
The "Irma la Douce" route can be well combined with one of the numerous other routes on Plombergstein.
During the bathing season, you can end the climbing day with a jump into the clear water of Lake Wolfgang.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
"Irma la Douce" also features earthy passages, so dry conditions should prevail.
Roadbook
Approach:
On the access road (Reitnerstraße), which begins at the lower end of the parking lot, past some residential houses towards Plombergstein. In a left curve, a gravel path branches off horizontally to the right into the forest (signpost Plombergstein). Follow it, cross the stream and continue for a few minutes more in the same direction (upstream), until a flat forest clearing is visible on the right (still before reaching a meadow). Along this forest floor next to a shallow ditch towards the rocks. Climb up left between moss-covered blocks to the start, metal plate "Irma la Douce", slightly right above is the plate "Rentnerweg".
Route description:
1st pitch: From the start climb quite straight up (3). After a light wall keep slightly right (4), then straight up again (3) to the belay on a rock head, 35 m, several bolts. Shortly before that the old start (3) joins from the right.
2nd pitch: Straight on over very beautiful slabby rock with giant handles 40 m to belay in a large hollow, right two spruce trees, also a tree in the middle, belay by it, 2+, several slings with quickdraws.
3rd pitch: Slightly right of the tree steeply up to another tree, then straight up to sling quickdraw, a bit left and straight up again (several quickdraws) to grass ledge. Belay 5 m above, 45 m, 3+ and 3.
4th pitch: 2 m left and straight over the slab, then a bit left, lastly with a stem step left to sling quickdraw and straight up again to belay at a tree or 2 m left above it at good quickdraw, 45 m, 5 m 4-, otherwise 3, some quickdraws and bolts.
5th pitch: On gentle terrain diagonally up to the left, then almost horizontal to the left through forest to the foot of the last rock rise. Belay at a tree or better 3–4 meters diagonally left of it at quickdraw, 25 m, hiking terrain and 1-, quickdraw and bolts.
6th pitch: Keep right going up past two trees, then as soon as possible left again and straight up over increasingly flat slabs (sling quickdraws) to rock head, belay at thick root, 38 m, 2+, 2, 3- and 1. End of climbing.
Descent:
From the exit southwards through the forest out onto the ridge and follow the trail tracks descending towards Plombergstein. Follow the easiest options near the ridge until the terrain gets steeper. Short rock steps lead to the start of the cable protection. Over a steep ramp (B, exposed) between overhanging rock walls down into the saddle in front of Plombergstein and to the hiking path. From here turn right downhill into the hollow and past the AV climbing garden back to the starting point.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
From Salzburg main station, regional line 150 runs regularly via St. Gilgen to Bad Ischl and back (stop St. Gilgen Mozartblick).
Bus info at: https://salzburg-verkehr.at/fahrplaene/fahrplandownload/
Directions
On the B 158 via Hof towards St. Gilgen until you pass the parking lot with a view of Lake Wolfgang above St. Gilgen (Mühlradl parking lot). On the opposite side of the street there is also a parking lot diagonally opposite. Also accessible from St. Gilgen via Mondsee – Scharfling (B 154) or from the direction of Bad Ischl. This parking lot is 700 m after the roundabout on the right side. Please park exclusively in this mountain-side parking lot; all other options on the approach road (Reitnerstraße) to Plombergstein are on private property!
Parking
Mountain side parking lot at the beginning of Reitnerstraße, 630 m
Coordinates
Equipment
50 m single rope, 8 quickdraws, possibly some slings for sand timers, helmet
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

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