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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomiti d'Ampezzo, Dolomiti Bellunesi

Pianoro dei Tocci (2675m) - Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin)

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Alpenverein Edelweiss Verified partner 
  • Topographic map
    Topographic map
    Photo: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss

Selected alternatives for you
    Beautiful, short climbing route in the area of the Fonda-Savio Hut.
    easy
    Distance 7.2 km
    5:00 h
    850 m
    850 m
    2,675 m
    1,820 m

    The inconspicuous summit "Pianoro dei Tocci (2675m)" is not marked on maps. It lies on the ridge between Fonda-Savio Hut (2367m) and Cima Cadin Nord-Ovest (2726m).
    The highlight is the vertical "Quinz corner", a climb of grade 6 (east side).
    To the left are the routes "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)" and "Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin, 4)", which can be well combined.

    This description is about the Southeast ridge.

    Climbing difficulty: 4
    Protection: 1 out of 4 (alpine)
    Rock quality: 3 out of 4

    Base: Fonda-Savio Hut (Rifugio Fonda Savio, 2367m)

    Notes:
    - For abseiling a 60m single rope or a 50m double rope is required.
    - The track on the map is roughly estimated and only serves as a guideline.
    - For the route "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)" there is a topo in the excellent climbing guide by Mauro Bernardi. The descent is the same as for our Southeast ridge.


    Information date: July 2012

    Difficulty
    IV easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Pianoro dei Tocci, 2,675 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot of the Fonda-Savio Hut, 1,820 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    730 m, 1:40 h
    Wall height
    120 m
    Climbing length
    150 m, 1:40 h
    Descent
    850 m, 1:40 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    5
    First ascent
    B. Crepaz and E. Querin, 1968

    Track types

    Dirt road 18.67%Path 76.94%Unknown 4.38%
    Dirt road
    1.4 km
    Path
    5.6 km
    Unknown
    317 m
    Show elevation profile

    Roadbook

    Approach: 1:40 hrs.
    From the parking lot in 1:20 hrs. (550 m ascent) to the Fonda-Savio Hut.
    Continue on path no. 116 about 15 min towards Forcella del Nevaio (south). On the right you can see the huge yellow, vertical "Quinz corner". 20m left of this corner is the lowest point of the wall, and another 40m further left is the start of the "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)", in the fall line of a chimney series.
    From here a short section (+5 min) at the foot of the wall further left and across rubble to the start of the clear "Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin, 4)", which can only be recognized late as a ridge. To the left is a continuous ravine (giant chimney). Start height 1550m.
    0:20 hrs. from the hut.

    Route: 120 m, 6 rope lengths (150m), 1:40 hrs.

    Descent: 0:50 hrs. to the hut, 1:40 hrs. to the parking lot.
    From the summit cairn descend north along the ridge, past the exits of the East wall and the Quinz corner, until a notch. Now do not take the first rubble gully to the right, but continue 50m further north along the ridge. Through two towers, downclimb the left gully 10m (1+) and keeping right into another notch, 10m before the last high tower. Here starts the abseil route to the right:
    Abseil 27m in gully to northeast.
    Abseil another 22m further in the gully and descend 40m on a scrambly ramp first left then right.
    Abseil 20m to rubble ledge, then descend right on a scrambly ledge (1) and across rubble field to the approach path.

    Rest stop
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    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
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    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Rifugio Fonda Savio
    Via ferrata Ceria Merlone

    Directions

    From Misurina towards Auronzohütte / Tre Cime. After a sharp hairpin turn, turn right to the slanted gravel parking lot of the Fonda-Savio Hut. Toll-free access up to here. Altitude approx. 1820m.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.590928, 12.263210
    DMS
    46°35'27.3"N 12°15'47.6"E
    UTM
    33T 290355 5163345
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing guide: Mauro Bernardi - Climbing in CORTINA D'AMPEZZO and surroundings.

    Author’s map recommendations

    Tabacco map no. 010 (Sexten Dolomites) or 017 (Dolomiti di Auronzo).

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Alpine climbing equipment, 5 quickdraws, 1x 60m single rope or 2x 50m double ropes (1x 50m is slightly too short!).

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    7.2 km
    Duration
    5:00 h
    Ascent
    850 m
    Descent
    850 m
    Highest point
    2,675 m
    Lowest point
    1,820 m
    Summit route Wall Ridge Abseil Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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