Pianoro dei Tocci (2675m) - Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin)
The inconspicuous summit "Pianoro dei Tocci (2675m)" is not marked on maps. It lies on the ridge between Fonda-Savio Hut (2367m) and Cima Cadin Nord-Ovest (2726m).
The highlight is the vertical "Quinz corner", a climb of grade 6 (east side).
To the left are the routes "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)" and "Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin, 4)", which can be well combined.
This description is about the Southeast ridge.
Climbing difficulty: 4
Protection: 1 out of 4 (alpine)
Rock quality: 3 out of 4
Base: Fonda-Savio Hut (Rifugio Fonda Savio, 2367m)
Notes:
- For abseiling a 60m single rope or a 50m double rope is required.
- The track on the map is roughly estimated and only serves as a guideline.
- For the route "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)" there is a topo in the excellent climbing guide by Mauro Bernardi. The descent is the same as for our Southeast ridge.
Information date: July 2012
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
Approach: 1:40 hrs.
From the parking lot in 1:20 hrs. (550 m ascent) to the Fonda-Savio Hut.
Continue on path no. 116 about 15 min towards Forcella del Nevaio (south). On the right you can see the huge yellow, vertical "Quinz corner". 20m left of this corner is the lowest point of the wall, and another 40m further left is the start of the "East wall (Quinz/Hirschland/Kraus, 4+)", in the fall line of a chimney series.
From here a short section (+5 min) at the foot of the wall further left and across rubble to the start of the clear "Southeast ridge (Crepaz/Querin, 4)", which can only be recognized late as a ridge. To the left is a continuous ravine (giant chimney). Start height 1550m.
0:20 hrs. from the hut.
Route: 120 m, 6 rope lengths (150m), 1:40 hrs.
Descent: 0:50 hrs. to the hut, 1:40 hrs. to the parking lot.
From the summit cairn descend north along the ridge, past the exits of the East wall and the Quinz corner, until a notch. Now do not take the first rubble gully to the right, but continue 50m further north along the ridge. Through two towers, downclimb the left gully 10m (1+) and keeping right into another notch, 10m before the last high tower. Here starts the abseil route to the right:
Abseil 27m in gully to northeast.
Abseil another 22m further in the gully and descend 40m on a scrambly ramp first left then right.
Abseil 20m to rubble ledge, then descend right on a scrambly ledge (1) and across rubble field to the approach path.
Via ferrata Ceria Merlone
Directions
From Misurina towards Auronzohütte / Tre Cime. After a sharp hairpin turn, turn right to the slanted gravel parking lot of the Fonda-Savio Hut. Toll-free access up to here. Altitude approx. 1820m.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Alpine climbing equipment, 5 quickdraws, 1x 60m single rope or 2x 50m double ropes (1x 50m is slightly too short!).Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions