Author’s recommendation
A very well-run hut by a very friendly hut warden.
It is worth staying longer and for example also doing Aletschhorn, Gross Fußhorn and Distelberg.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
OBERALETSCHHÜTTE SACSafety information
The retreat of the Oberaletsch glacier leaves little stable terrain at the start of the approach climbing route. Additionally, the first bolt is about 15 meters above the highest point of the scree. Slabby climbing in grade V first through a groove, then left enables reaching the bolt.Tips and suggestions
The very nice hut warden is happy to provide information.
Roadbook
From the Oberaletsch hut down to the Oberaletsch glacier and follow the markings towards Aletschhorn for a while. Then head towards the waterfalls flowing down from the Distel glacier, passing at the foot of the Distelberg. The 8 pitches of the approach climbing route - difficulty 5b - (see pictures) lead to the upper level. Traverse southwest under the glacier to the prominent moraine ridge, which leads directly to the start of the east ridge. The best access is via the uppermost horizontal rock ledge with a short climbing section (one section II). Here you find the 2 bolts of the first belay station. Then follow the beautiful climbing line, which is hardly missed thanks to the bolts. Shortly before the summit, the 15th pitch has the special feature that the crack-filled slab must be self-protected with friends and nuts. Crack width approx. 2-4 cm.
Abseil directly via the route; the stations are equipped for abseiling. On pitches that traverse, abseil directly to the next belay or improvise with the existing bolts.
From the terrain terrace below the Distel glacier, abseil another 8 pitches down the climbing route itself to the Oberaletsch glacier. Finally back to the hut.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
yes
SBB
Postbus
Directions
By car or public transport to Blatten near Natters, then by cable car to Belalp.Coordinates
Equipment
50 meters double rope, helmet, climbing shoes, climbing harness, slings, 8-10 quickdraws, 1 set of nuts and friends in small and medium sizes. Crampons possibly advisable.Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions