Magyar Természetjáró Szövetség weboldalai MTSZ MTSZ térképportál Turista Magazin TuristaShop Kéktúra Gerecse50 A kéktúrázás napja
Try Pro for free
Choose a language
Plan a route here Plan similar route
Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Blatten-Belalp

Oberer Torberg 3324m

Responsible for this content
DAV Sektion Allgäu-Immenstadt Verified partner 
  • Oberer Torberg 3324m
    Oberer Torberg 3324m
    Photo: Peter Klug, DAV Sektion Allgäu-Immenstadt

Selected alternatives for you
    The Oberer Torberg offers a rewarding climb on its east ridge on the best rock, granite like in Chamonix. The complicated approach gives the route a high alpine, serious character.
    moderate
    Distance 5.3 km
    12:00 h
    1,100 m
    1,100 m
    3,324 m
    2,450 m
    The east ridge is a solitary climbing route with solid rock. In the lower part, the granite is of perfect quality. In the upper part, the route becomes easier, and each pitch offers beautiful sections and tricky spots.

    Author’s recommendation

    A very well-run hut by a very friendly hut warden.

    It is worth staying longer and for example also doing Aletschhorn, Gross Fußhorn and Distelberg.

    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    3,324 m
    Lowest point
    2,450 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    450 m, 3:00 h
    Wall height
    420 m
    Climbing length
    420 m, 6:00 h
    Descent
    900 m, 3:00 h
    Rope length
    2 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    31.07.1966

    Track types

    Traces of trail 7.33%Unknown 92.66%
    Traces of trail
    388 m
    Unknown
    4.9 km
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    OBERALETSCHHÜTTE SAC

    Safety information

    The retreat of the Oberaletsch glacier leaves little stable terrain at the start of the approach climbing route. Additionally, the first bolt is about 15 meters above the highest point of the scree. Slabby climbing in grade V first through a groove, then left enables reaching the bolt.

    Tips and suggestions

    The very nice hut warden is happy to provide information.

    http://www.oberaletsch.ch

    Roadbook

    From the Oberaletsch hut down to the Oberaletsch glacier and follow the markings towards Aletschhorn for a while. Then head towards the waterfalls flowing down from the Distel glacier, passing at the foot of the Distelberg. The 8 pitches of the approach climbing route - difficulty 5b - (see pictures) lead to the upper level. Traverse southwest under the glacier to the prominent moraine ridge, which leads directly to the start of the east ridge. The best access is via the uppermost horizontal rock ledge with a short climbing section (one section II). Here you find the 2 bolts of the first belay station. Then follow the beautiful climbing line, which is hardly missed thanks to the bolts. Shortly before the summit, the 15th pitch has the special feature that the crack-filled slab must be self-protected with friends and nuts. Crack width approx. 2-4 cm.

    Abseil directly via the route; the stations are equipped for abseiling. On pitches that traverse, abseil directly to the next belay or improvise with the existing bolts.

    From the terrain terrace below the Distel glacier, abseil another 8 pitches down the climbing route itself to the Oberaletsch glacier. Finally back to the hut.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    OBERALETSCHHÜTTE SAC

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    yes

    SBB

    Postbus

    Directions

    By car or public transport to Blatten near Natters, then by cable car to Belalp.

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'641'155E 1'141'627N
    DD
    46.424731, 7.974008
    DMS
    46°25'29.0"N 7°58'26.4"E
    UTM
    32T 421165 5141751
    w3w 
    ///slighting.beautifully.etches
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    50 meters double rope, helmet, climbing shoes, climbing harness, slings, 8-10 quickdraws, 1 set of nuts and friends in small and medium sizes. Crampons possibly advisable.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions

    Don't see what you need here?
    Ask a question and get an answer from the author, the official DMO or the community.

    No ratings (yet)
    Be the first to leave a rating or write a review!
    Share your experiences and advice to help millions of people find and plan their next outdoor adventure.
    Write a review
    Rating submitted
    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    5.3 km
    Duration
    12:00 h
    Ascent
    1,100 m
    Descent
    1,100 m
    Highest point
    3,324 m
    Lowest point
    2,450 m
    Public-transport-friendly Out and back Scenic Insider tip Summit route Wall Abseil

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

    Statistics

    • My Map
    • Content
    • Show images Hide images
    Features
    Maps and trails
    Nothing selected - click and drag in the elevation profile to zoom
    Distance
    Duration
    Ascent
    Descent
    Elevation profile
    Logo agrar Logo aofk Logo mol Logo otp