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Alpine Climbing
· Berchtesgaden Alps
Nebeltanz - in aesthetic climbing on the Torsäule (2,588 m)
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Fog dance at the Torsäule - Overview photo (topo) of the climbing routePhoto: Stefan Stadler, DAV Section Teisendorf
What inspired the first ascenders to name this beautiful climbing route on the Torsäule "Nebeltanz"? I associate dance with an aesthetic way of moving and imagine how we (possibly also in fog) move elegantly upwards. Of course, this is only possible with suitably good rock, which is available here! My climbing partner thinks the mist swirls will dance around us. For me, this is not such a nice image...
It is certain that the first ascenders got everything out of this wall and found an outstanding line. On Nebeltanz one can climb upwards like in a trance on mostly excellent rock!
Author’s recommendation
The Mitterfeldalm is beautifully located, the snacks are delicious, and the hosts are very friendly! The local climbing scene gathers here for the "after-tour review"!
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Mitterfeldalm (1.669 m)Safety information
The bolt distances are so large that, except for the crux, falling is not allowed! Therefore, the stated difficulty must be climbed absolutely safely.Tips and suggestions
Tourist info Mühlbach - Mitterfeldalm - news from the author on FB
Roadbook
Approach: Start by following the gravel road and the signposts to Hochkönig. Past the Mitterfeldalm, now a flat section and then rising again, you can finally see the shapely Torsäule. Continue along the path and walk a good stretch under the south face. At a rock plateau, near the distinctive gorge edge, follow trail traces across a scree field at the base of the wall. Then climb a ledge a bit to the west (left) on rocky steps (in spring old snowfield), then the start is located at an hourglass shape left of the southwest crack.
Route: The topo details the climbing route. From the exit, reach the summit in a few minutes heading east. Good climbing!
Descent: On well-visible trails heading east, begin the normal route to the Torsäule. After a flat section, rappel down a chimney (I-II) and come onto a meadow. Here at a distinctive cairn, sharply right (marked with orange dots and an arrow), descend a jagged chimney and reach the path to the Hochkönig. Follow this known path back to the backpacks...
Einstieg Nebeltanz (2.370 m)
Torsäule (2.588 m)
Public transport
From the Intercity train station Bischofshofen, take bus no. 590 to Mühlbach and then the unfortunately infrequent bus no. 633 to the Arthurhaus.Directions
We drive at the Pongau motorway interchange (Tauern motorway - A10) towards Bischofshofen. After a few kilometers on the two-lane B311, turn right towards Bischofshofen. At the roundabout take the road straight on and follow the road through a narrow valley to Mühlbach am Hochkönig. Then turn right following the signs to Arthurhaus, which is reached via a mountain pass road.Parking
The very large hiking parking lot at the Arthurhaus costs a fee of 2.50 euros per day.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Panico: Best of Genuss Volume 1; Alpinverlag: Genussklettern Austria Central; both available free shipping in the online shop of freytag & berndt.
Unfortunately, the area guide by Albert Precht (Panico Verlag) is out of print.
Author’s map recommendations
Alpine Club Map No: 10/2 Hochkönig, Hagengebirge 1:25000 available at freytag & berndt
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Rope teams who want to keep the option to abort the route open climb with half ropes. Those who climb safely only need a single rope. Possibly nuts and friends for additional protection. Other alpine climbing gear: 10 quickdraws etc…Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions