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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Karwendel

Lamsenspitze northeast edge

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  • Lamsenjochhütte
    Lamsenjochhütte
    Photo: Michael Pröttel, AV-alpenvereinaktiv.com

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    Like hardly any other mountain, Lamsenspitze dominates the eastern Karwendel range with its particularly impressive shape when seen from the Falzthurntal.
    moderate
    Distance 3.1 km
    6:00 h
    650 m
    631 m
    2,508 m
    1,947 m
    While the summit can be reached by experienced mountain hikers over the normal route from the south even without a rope, the northeast edge belongs in the tour book of every sport climber. It offers surprisingly solid climbing for Karwendel conditions with great views downwards. In the upper part the rock becomes more brittle, however. You have to be just as careful here as at the unsecured transition from the end of the climbing route to the main summit.

    Author’s recommendation

    It is worth for climbers to spend the night at the Lamsenhütte after the route and visit the climbing garden "Dreamland" the next day.
    Difficulty
    IV+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,508 m
    Lowest point
    1,947 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    30:00 h
    Climbing length
    470 m, 3:30 h
    Descent
    2:00 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    sporadic bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    8

    Track types

    Path 86.36%Unknown 13.63%
    Path
    2.7 km
    Unknown
    423 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Only undertake in dry and absolutely stable weather conditions!

    Tips and suggestions

    www.alpenverein-muenchen-oberland.de/huetten/alpenvereinshuetten/lamsenjochhuette

    Roadbook

    From the hut, first ascend on the normal route towards Lamsenspitze westwards over open slopes (do not branch off to the Brudertunnel) and then reach to the right on a small path the foot of the clearly visible Lamsenspitze east face, which ends on the right with the northeast edge.

    Route: 1st pitch: Right at the start the crux over a smooth slab to a ledge (IV+). 2nd - 4th pitch: Ascend straight up over easy slabs and cracks (II – III). 5th pitch: Follow a crack leftwards (III). 6th pitch: Over more compact rock first left, then straight and finally right to belay (IV). 7th pitch: Traverse gently left to a small chimney and climb over it and a gully again keeping right into a distinctive notch (III+). 8th and 9th pitch: Slightly left of the edge ascend straight (III). 10th pitch: Directly on the edge finally bypass a small tower on the right to the subpeak (II – III).

    Transition to the main summit: Follow the ridge to a first notch and bypass the rock tower behind it by ascending on the right (II). Then flatter to a wider notch and without bigger difficulties (II) straight up to the summit.

    Descent: Initially descend westwards through scree, then descend steeper southwards on a cable-protected path (watch out for rockfall). At the foot of the south flank, cross into walking terrain eastwards to the Lamsenscharte. Below the east flank, continue traversing eastwards following cable ropes and shortly thereafter stand just below the ascent (do not follow path traces to the right earlier which lead down the scree run-off).

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    Photo
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    Lamsenjoch hut
    Lamsenspitze 2506m

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    Take the Bayerische Oberlandbahn (BOB) to Tegernsee, from there RVO line 9550 to the stop "Pertisau, Karwendeltäler" (alternatively also by train to Jenbach and further with bus 8332); continue on foot or with the nostalgia bus to Gramaialm (in summer Mon–Sat four connections daily)

    Or hut approach from Eng: Take the Bayerische Oberlandbahn (BOB) to Lenggries, from there RVO line 9569 (mountain bus Eng, operates approx. May–October) through the Riß valley to Eng

    Directions

    Via Bad Tölz and the Sylvenstein reservoir to Achensee. Here over Pertisau on the toll road into the Falzthurntal and park at the end at Gramaialm.

    Parking

    Large parking lot Gramaialm.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.380157, 11.603456
    DMS
    47°22'48.6"N 11°36'12.4"E
    UTM
    32T 696515 5250697
    w3w 
    ///grieved.encoder.amplified
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Karsten Kriele, Alpine Enjoyment Climbing, Bruckmann Verlag, 2005

    Author’s map recommendations

    AV map, sheet 5/3, 1:25000, Karwendel Mountains – East

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Normal alpine climbing equipment with harness, helmet, double rope, slings and quickdraws. Nuts or friends are not necessary.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    3.1 km
    Duration
    6:00 h
    Ascent
    650 m
    Descent
    631 m
    Highest point
    2,508 m
    Lowest point
    1,947 m
    Public-transport-friendly Scenic Summit route Ridge Slab Descending on foot Round trip

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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