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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Saas-Fee/Saastal

Jegihorn, route "Alpendurst"

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DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main Verified partner 
  • Course of the climbing route "Alpendurst" (red) and the descent path (green)
    Course of the climbing route "Alpendurst" (red) and the descent path (green)
    Photo: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main

Selected alternatives for you

    There are several Plaisir climbing routes at Jegihorn. The "Alpendurst" route is the most homogeneous, the most beautiful and the most popular, as well as perfectly protected. 

    The descent via the hiking path is uncomplicated, making for a relaxed day tour starting from Kreuzboden overall.

    moderate
    Distance 4.7 km
    5:15 h
    810 m
    806 m
    3,205 m
    2,396 m

    Overview:

    • 14 pitches between 15 and 40 m
    • Difficulty 4b to 4c (approx. 4+ / 5- UIAA)
    • All belays with 2 bolts each, all intermediate protection also with bolts at close intervals
    • Approach approx. 1:15 h on hiking path from Kreuzboden, route time approx. 4 h, descent on hiking path back to Kreuzboden approx. 1:30 h.

    Author’s recommendation

    • Start early (take the first cable car to Kreuzboden) to have enough time reserve and not miss the last cable car down the valley. Since the route is popular, expect other rope teams to climb ahead and possibly wait.
    • Friends and cams are really not needed, the bolts are so close together that it provides a Plaisir feeling
    • Due to the southeast orientation of the wall, it is less suitable for hot days (at least bring enough water then)
    • Finish the tour on the terrace of the Kreuzboden mountain restaurant with a piece of cake...
    Difficulty
    V-4c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Jegihorn, 3,205 m
    Lowest point
    Kreuzboden, 2,396 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    500 m, 1:15 h
    Wall height
    300 m
    Climbing length
    380 m, 4:00 h
    Descent
    810 m, 1:30 h
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    with bolts, sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    Georges Gruber, Thomas Tannast, 2000

    Track types

    Forested/wild trail 26.44%Path 68.18%Unknown 5.37%
    Forested/wild trail
    1.2 km
    Path
    3.2 km
    Unknown
    254 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    • Although the route is popular and loose material has mostly been cleared, there is still risk of rockfall due to the straight line of the route following the fall line. 
    • Overall the rock is solid, but there are some loose holds and flakes. 

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From Kreuzboden follow the signposting "Klettersteig" (via ferrata) (do not go towards Weissmies Hut, this is a detour). The marked path first follows ski slopes, then becomes a trail and steadily ascends. At about 2750 m, do not continue straight towards the via ferrata, but go left (northeast) upwards on the descent path from Jegihorn. Follow this up to about 2900 m, then at the 2nd cairn take a narrow, unmarked path right. After 20 to 30 m you reach the base of the wall and directly the first belay station, the route name is written there. Approx. 1:15 h to here.

    Route:

    The route has a total of 14 pitches, whose maximum difficulty is quite homogeneous, mostly between 4b and 4c. However, each pitch also contains easier sections, so you are not continuously climbing in this difficulty range.

    All belay stations are equipped with 2 bolts each, connected by a chain. This largely eliminates the time needed to build belays. All belays are also placed so that you can stand very comfortably there. The lowest chain link is also suitable as a rappel ring, so in emergencies you can rappel down the route. Most belays are within calling distance to the previous one, so communication is uncomplicated.

    All intermediate protection consists of bolts as well, spaced closely enough that the route can be considered very well protected overall.

    Due to the close spacing of bolts, there are no orientation problems on the route, so a detailed description of individual pitches is unnecessary. The length of the pitches is between 15 m and 40 m. 

    The route ends directly at the summit cross. Due to the good protection, the minimal time required to build belays and for orientation, the entire route can be completed even by moderately experienced rope teams in about 4 hours.

    Descent:

    The descent is straightforward via the marked hiking trail. Returning to Kreuzboden takes about 1:30 h.

    Rest stop
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    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Petting zoo at Adventure land Kreuzboden
    Kneipp facility Kreuzboden
    Marmots at Kreuzboden
    Bike Skills Park Kreuzboden
    Adventure land Kreuzboden
    Adventure land Kreuzboden
    Barbecue area Adventure land Kreuzboden
    Kreuzbodensee

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    Take the postbus to Saas Grund, then cable car.

    From there continue by cable car to Kreuzboden.

    Directions

    By car to the parking lot at the cable car in Saas Grund.

    Parking

    Parking lot at the cable car

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'640'602E 1'109'803N
    DD
    46.138496, 7.964052
    DMS
    46°08'18.6"N 7°57'50.6"E
    UTM
    32T 419984 5109957
    w3w 
    ///maddening.unframed.grid
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Equipment

    • 50 m rope (double rope if you consider the possibility of aborting the route)
    • 10 quickdraws
    • Helmet

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    V-4c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    4.7 km
    Duration
    5:15 h
    Ascent
    810 m
    Descent
    806 m
    Highest point
    3,205 m
    Lowest point
    2,396 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Fauna Cableway ascent/descent Summit route Wall Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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