Great Peak normal route via the southeast face

Approach: From the Auronzo Hut, hike the wide, flat path that leads to the Paternscharte, up to the chapel. Then, follow faint trail markings to arbitrarily ascend the scree slope on the right side of the Great Peak. Aim for the gorge between the Small and Great Peak. Once reached, do not enter the gorge to the left, but climb 30m higher until you see a ramp on the northern gorge wall.

Climbing route: The entry ramp (I°) is climbed westwards 40-50m into the gorge floor. Then switch to the southern bounding wall (=forebuilding). With intermediate protection, climb 50m directly (II°-III°) to the first notch, or take an easier but unprotected route along the band-like southern boundary of the gorge (II°), then traverse to the 1st notch with a belay station.

On the forebuilding, continue a little down on a ledge, then a short stemming step spans a gap to the south wall of the Peak. In easy climbing, ascend a wide gully (II°), which narrows into a steep gorge, to the 2nd notch. Cross a scree gorge and ascend left in it to the 3rd notch. Then a few steps right lead to a well-gripped steep wall (III°) to a narrow scree ledge (abseil ring). Via small rock steps and short ramps, reach three steep gullies with loose rock (II°); you have to choose one. Then traverse left on the scree ledge into a gully. Now climb the steep left pillar (III°) about 50m and cross the gully to the right to the crux: a mirror-smooth, almost gripless chimney (III°). You must power up over the first wedged block. The last moves out of the chimney are easier and lead over a steep wall (II+°) to an abseil ring just below a narrow ledge. Traverse this horizontally to the left. A deflecting block leads the narrow ledge into a gorge, which is exited via a corner (II°) (colorful protection sling) as it gets easier to the upper scree terrace ledge.

Now hike the "ring ledge" westwards. Cairns show the way to a ramp (I°), which is soon left to the right. A short smooth chimney (III°) leads into grippy I+° terrain. A steep gully must be traversed right around the “nasty” block (II-III°) (one fixed piton). After a short corner (II), the terrain slopes and with a left bend (I° – walking terrain) you reach the already visible summit cross.

Descent: Along the ascent route, few abseil points installed (rings).