MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
-
KartePhoto: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
Alpine, attractive ascent away from the climbing crowds.
Best as a second route after the Silberstiege.
The so-called “East Ridge” does not face east but – like the whole wall – southwest.
Some navigation skill is required for approach and descent. All paths are unmarked and partly faint.
Protection must be set by the climber, but is easily possible. The rock has many nice cracks. The first pitch is very brittle but not particularly difficult.
A topo can be found in the climbing guide “Leichter Fels im Wilden Osten” by Thomas Behm – a treasure trove for technically easy but demanding scrambles, no pleasure climbing!
Difficulty: 4
Rock quality: 2 out of 4 (moderate). The rock is very rough but partly brittle – check holds and blocks carefully!
Protection: Only four old fixed pitons in the route overall. All belays easily set on solid trees, small and medium cams are very well suited for intermediate protection.
Escape options: You can rappel almost everywhere from small trees on the ridge with a 50m single rope to the scree field on the right.
Valley village: Sieding (478m)
Information current as of: 12.11.2023
Author’s recommendation
- Ideally, you climb the Silberstiege route first, as the descent passes almost directly by the start of the East Ridge.
- If you want to climb Silberstiege AFTER the East Ridge, cross from the East Ridge start (scree field) at the base of the wall 200m / 3 minutes horizontally to the north and steeply ascend before the first descending rock spur to the Heisserhöhle. Not easy to find, only faint path traces.
- Behind the church in Sieding is a playground and a small animal enclosure with goats that can be petted.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
Approach: 300 vertical meters / 0:50 hours.
At the start of the parking lot (in front of the church) on a narrow path, first along a fence, eastward into a gully (5 minutes). At a large stone, go left out of the gully and up to the adjacent ridge. Only briefly ascend the ridge and then immediately veer diagonally right back into the gully. After 30m go left again onto the ridge, cross it, and ascend gently left to a horizontal path. Follow this path to the right. After 80m a small path branches off to the left (this leads up to the Heisserhöhle and the start of the routes “Silberstiege” and “Gamssteig”). Here continue straight, 300m almost horizontally to the right, to a small level grassy ledge on a ridge. From here, slightly leftward ascend to the large summit scree field. Cross the scree field 40m horizontally to the left to the base of the distinctive East Ridge, at a red niche on the left edge of the summit scree field.
Start height 780m.
Route: 120 vertical meters / 1:30-2:00 hours.
12m left of the red niche climb over the blocky and very brittle ridge up to a belay at a tree (20m, 2+).
[ Or direct start via the very steep slab: 2m left of the niche on a narrow ledge left to a fine crack, climb this in fall line up to the tree, 15m, difficulty 4+ according to Thomas Behm, demanding, no pitons, protection with small cams ].
Then on good, rough rock along the ridge on a logical line to the exit.
From the exit, the summit of Gösing is reachable in a few minutes.
Descent: 420 vertical meters / 0:50 hours.
a) Shortest way (0:50 hours): From the exit, briefly ascend to a horizontal path and follow it right (southeast, along the edge of the wall) 150m / 2 minutes to a small gully. Descend in this gully westward and at the first chance keep right to the edge of the scree field below the start (12 min). From there return the same way as the approach.
b) To southeast (1:00 hour): Stay on the path heading southeast / south. After the cave “Warme Lucke” turn right to the main road and follow it 1 km back to Sieding.
c) Beautiful circular route (6 km / 1:30 hours): From the exit, follow the marked path left (north) towards the Flatzer Wand Nature Friends House, but before the large forest road junction turn left towards Stixenstein and Sieding. Finally descend to the valley on the wide hiking trail along the stream back to the church.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Train to Ternitz station, regional bus 350 towards Puchberg to Sieding / stop Sieding-Bundesstraße.
Directions
A2 South motorway > Neunkirchen > Ternitz > toward Puchberg > via St. Johann am Steinfelde to Sieding. In the town at the signpost “Naturpark Sierningtal” turn right to the church and park there.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing guide “Leichter Fels im Wilden Osten” by Thomas Behm.
Equipment
Alpine climbing equipment with 50m single rope, 5 quickdraws, slings for trees, cams for intermediate protection.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions