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Alpine Climbing
· Dolomiti d'Ampezzo, Dolomiti Bellunesi
Campanile Dülfer (2706m) - South ridge
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TopoPhoto: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
The Campanile Dülfer (Dülfertower, 2706m) is a finger-shaped tower at the southern corner of Cima Eötvös (2825m). The sharp south edge leads directly to the tower.
The rating of 5- is quite crisp and not to be underestimated.
Difficulty: 5-
Rock quality: 2 to 3 out of 4 (moderate to good).
Protection: alpine! Belays on knobs and sand clocks, only few normal bolts available.
Equipment: 2x 50m ropes for abseil route, 6 quickdraws, climbing protection devices required.
Elevation difference: 300 m
Climbing length: 355m, 10 pitches.
Climbing time: 3:00 h.
Note:
Due to the inaccuracy of the maps, the track can only be an approximate indication.
Better rely on the description and your own terrain observation.
Information status: July 2012
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
Approach: 650 m / 1:45 h.
On the gravel road 10 min towards Fonda-Savio Hut. At the end of the gravel road at a flat meadow about 500m (7 min) turn right onto path 115, then left onto path 188 up to Forcella della Neve (2471m). Beyond, descend to the lowest point of the sharp south ridge.
The start is 50m to the right above the lowest point.
Approach via Rifugio Fonda Savio: 550 + 250 m / 1:20 + 1:00 h.
From the parking lot in 1:20 h to Fonda-Savio Hut (2367m). Then on path no. 116 to Forcella del Nevaio (2624m) (not to be confused with Forcella della Neve, 2471m!). From here in 8 min. on path no. 116 southwards down to Forcella Verzi (2550m). Further approx. 150 m downhill to the lowest point of the sharp south ridge. The start is 50m to the right above the lowest point.
Approach from Rifugio Città di Carpi: 1:00 h on path no. 116.
Descent: 2x 50m ropes required! 1:30 h to the start.
From the summit, climb down 10m towards the notch (northeast) and abseil 50m hanging free into the narrow notch.
(Or from the summit abseil 20m towards the notch to a wild intermediate belay in a small niche in the vertical wall. From here abseil 40m hanging free into the notch.)
Then abseil 5 more times in the west gully: 45m / 50m and 8m walk left across a ledge / 45m / 50m / 45m.
Forcella della Neve 2471m
Forcella del Nevaio 2620m
Rifugio Fonda Savio
Via ferrata Ceria Merlone
Directions
From Misurina towards Auronzohütte / Three Peaks. After a sharp hairpin turn right to the crooked gravel parking lot of the Fonda-Savio Hut. Toll-free access up to here.
Altitude approx. 1820m.
(You are already too far if you reach the small lake Lago de Antorno.)
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions