Blechmauer Ridge via the Ridge Chimneys (Rax, Großes Höllental, Blechmauer)

Access: From the parking lot in front of the tunnel at Großes Höllental, head uphill via the Schönbrunner Stiege. From here, follow the gently ascending trail into the valley until, just before reaching the rear edge of the Blechmauer, a zigzagging path leading uphill through scree branches off to the left (if you reach the large scree fields beyond that, you’ve already gone too far). Take this zigzagging path uphill, around the edge, and continue upward to the start of the Gratkamine gorge (approx. 40-minute approach).
1 SL: (Gratkamine, approx. 30 m, UIAA 2–3, crumbly): Climb the crumbly left section of the gorge up a vegetation-covered gully for a few meters, then carefully traverse left over scree to the left rock face and follow another gully upward to the belay station with a ring-shaped adhesive hook. No intermediate anchors up to this point.
2nd pitch: (ridge chimney, approx. 30 m, UIAA 4+, creative). From the ring hook, climb a few meters up to a wide chimney with a jammed boulder. On the left is a rusty rock piton that doesn’t inspire much confidence. A size 2 Friend (gold) fits in the middle, and a sling hangs down from above. By spreading your legs and bracing yourself on the left and right, the chimney can be climbed easily. In addition, a small rock protrudes from the center; if used with caution, it provides enough support to maintain balance. After that, there is another rock hook on the left, and the route continues over flat rock, keeping slightly to the right past boulders, into a cave-like roof chimney secured with hourglass slings and a glue hook. The crux (4+) is at the adhesive hook, where a straddle step is required to reach the other side of the chimney. Spread your legs and finally move left (here you can place a size 1 red Friend) upward to a good belay station with a ring adhesive hook and an hourglass.
3 pitches: ( ridge chimneys, approx. 35 m, UIAA 4, beautiful). From the ring piton, climb steeply left to a belay point; spread out horizontally across a gully to another belay point, traverse further left, and from the belay point before the edge, descend approx. 2.5 m to the belay station with a ring piton. While descending, there is an option to place an additional Friend, size 2 (gold), for the second climber.
4 SL: (approx. 45 m, UIAA 4+). Work your way up through the following steep chimney with your back to the left and your legs to the right (2 BH, UIAA 4+). Two small jam blocks provide good handholds and footholds here. Climb a few meters up the following gully. Do not use the rock piton on the right to ensure optimal rope routing; instead, just before the long series of chimneys, exit the gorge to the left over scree (UIAA 2–3) (a Friend, size 1, red, can be placed here) and continue upward to a prominent pine tree (belay station).
5 pitches: (approx. 40 m, UIAA 2-3). Keeping slightly to the left, but somewhat to the right of the ridge, climb up to another curved, prominent tree (intermediate belay point) and from there across flat terrain to the left to the rappel station at the edge (1 ring bolt and 2 pitons for backup).
Rappelling: (approx. 55 m or 25 and 30 m): Rappell either directly or via an intermediate belay (1 ring bolt and 2 pitons) down a ledge with a prominent pine tree to a vegetated ledge, then to a belay station with two pitons.
6th pitch: (approx. 45 m, UIAA 4+). On the vegetation-covered ledge, climb upward initially easily (UIAA 1–2), then at a slight left bend, ascend a steep, partly brittle but well-secured ramp with KH to a belay station at the ring bolt. This ledge can remain wet for a long time after rainfall and is tricky when wet.
7th pitch: (metal-wall crack, approx. 45 m, UIAA 1). Traverse the large, vegetation-covered semi-cave to the left to the belay station at a tree and pitons. The semi-cave is also suitable as a snack stop or emergency bivouac site.
8th pitch: (Blechmauern crack, approx. 30 m, UIAA 5+, beautiful). Follow the actual Blechmauern crack—well-protected with KH and BH—moderately steeply upward. At a jutting section (UIAA 5+), descend briefly to the left into the wall and then climb back up to the ledge shortly thereafter. Belay in a larger, flat niche on the ledge using pitons and nuts. Alternatively, with a 60-meter rope, you can continue climbing directly to the next belay station.
9th pitch: ( Blechmauern crack, approx. 25 m, UIAA 4, beautiful). Follow the ledge—which is well-secured with KH—to the belay station behind the edge (2 BH) or to another belay station a few meters further on (2 BH).
10th pitch: (Blechmauern crack, approx. 35–50 m, UIAA 5). Follow the ledge—well-protected with KH—which starts off easy, passing under a curved tree, and continues upward to a steep section of wall before a ridge (UIAA 5). From there, either proceed to the nearby belay (3 BH) or, better yet, follow a distinct trail upward to one of the trees (belay).
Descent: From the belay tree, keep left and climb about 50 m to the marked Wachthüttelkamm Trail, which is secured with iron ladders and steel cables. Follow this trail downhill back to the parking lot (about 50 minutes).