Bernadeinkopf "Direct North Face" - 2+9 SL, 5+, alpine

Access:

From the Osterfelderkopf mountain station, head downhill along the farm road toward the wall—which is already clearly visible—and the distinctive rock arch. After the rock gap, continue downhill until you see a short trail on the right leading to the Sprengbahn station. Follow this trail and continue along a path over scree and boulder fields directly toward the start of the route. (see photo)

Note on the topo: All belay stations are equipped with ring hooks. In addition, only bolted anchors are marked; hammer-driven pitons, hourglass-shaped anchors, and less prominent rock features are not marked.

Preliminary section:

1st pitch: Start at the lowest point of the water-eroded rocks and then, secured by a few bolts, climb up to a ring hook toward the clearly visible starting chimney. (35 m, IV-)

2nd pitch: First, continue following the water grooves, then turn left into the chimney and set up a belay on the right wall (see photo). (25 m, III+)

With a 60-meter rope, the two pitches could be combined; however, this is not recommended, as the loose debris below the start chimney will inevitably be dislodged, causing rockfall toward the belayer.

Alternatively, you can bypass the approach to the right on easy terrain (I to II) and start directly at the belay station in the chimney (original start).

For those who prefer to play it safe, it’s also advisable to use the ring hook to the right outside the chimney to reduce the risk of falling rocks. Subsequently, it’s recommended to set up an intermediate belay at the ring hook to the left above the end of the chimney (see 1st pitch).

Main Route:

1st pitch: Start in the chimney; after a few meters, there’s a first hourglass-shaped hold on the right; further up on the left, a sling around a jammer. Exit the chimney via the left wall using bolts (V). After the chimney, either set up an intermediate belay at a ring hook on the left, or continue directly to the right over a slabby ramp along a sloping dihedral. (IV, 45 m total)

2nd pitch: Continue following the slabby ramp and, at its end, go right around a somewhat brittle rock outcrop to enter a prominent crack system. Here, set up a belay at the start on a ring hook in the black rock. (40 m, IV)

3rd pitch: Now briefly follow the crack along the fall line, then traverse almost horizontally to the left across a slab with bolted anchors (further ascent in the crack = “Via Crucis,” VII). Continue traversing past a “Köpfli” (“K”) and set up a belay just before the start of a vertical dihedral at the end of a ledge ascending from below. (30 m, V-)

4th pitch: Traverse left toward the lower end of the dihedral and enter it where it is slightly overhanging (the pre-threaded hourglass positioned vertically higher up indicates the wrong route). Follow the dihedral further up to the left (2 BH, see photo) and set up a belay at the junction of a vertical gully. (30m, V+)

5th pitch: Follow the gully and then proceed along the fall line over stepped slabs (BH) to the belay station at the base of a faintly defined small tower. (30 m, V)

6th pitch: Continue along the obvious line on the edge and later across slabs (BH) to the right to the belay in a gully, from which a prominent crack branches off upward. (20 m, IV)

7. Pitch: Climb straight up the steep crack chimney (V+, 2 BH) and then into the steep dihedral to the left (IV+). Follow this to the belay station to the right beneath a slight overhang. (40 m)

8th pitch: Continue following the steep dihedral, with the route now running close to the left outer edge (see photo). At the end of the dihedral, keep right and set up a belay on the slab (see photo) below the clearly visible exit chimney. (25 m, IV)

9th Pitch: Climb up the left edge of the chimney; at the end, keep right and climb a few meters to the final belay station at a small ledge just below the summit. (25 m, III+)

Descent:

Follow the clearly visible trail from the summit toward the Alpspitze, and then, from the Schöngänge junction at the saddle, ascend briefly to the Nordwandsteig (roped section A/B) and follow it to the cable car station.