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Alpine Climbing
· Berchtesgadener Land
Berchtesgadener Hochthron - Beginner's Joy
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OverviewPhoto: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
The route leads through the left part of the south face of the Berchtesgadener Hochthron (between Naturfreunde Cave and Mittagsloch) and ends at the metal support of the material cable car near the Stöhrhaus.
Difficulty: 5-, crux 5- A0 (free 5+), otherwise easier.
Protection: 3 out of 4 (good), with bolts.
Rock quality: 3 out of 4 (good).
Information status: October 2015
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
StöhrhausSafety information
In early summer the Mittagsloch can still be blocked with snow and ice and impassable. Then descend via the hiking trail.Roadbook
Approach: 870m elevation gain, 2:15 hrs.
a) From Hinter-Ettenberg: On the marked trail to Scheibenkaser (1436m). Continue towards Berchtesgadener Hochthron (west) to a gully in the fall line of the huge Naturfreunde Cave. Up the gully (1 to 2, grassy, bypass steep steps on the right) and to the right to the prominent slab. Entry at bolt and small sign. – Slightly easier is the right (eastern) neighboring gully: ascend leftwards in the gully to a notch on the connecting ridge of both gullies. Now descend leftwards through a larch corridor and over scree to the entry under the prominent slab. Entry height about 1650m.
b) From Maria Gern: Follow the marking towards Stöhrhaus (first road, then hiking trail), then turn off towards Scheibenkaser (Rosslander trail) and slightly downhill to the prominent gully in the fall line of the huge Naturfreunde Cave. Continue as above.
Route: 220m elevation, 310m length, 2:30 hrs.
The crux is 5- A0 (with assistance of existing bolts) or free 5+. The route is somewhat inhomogeneous, many easier sections.
Descent: 1120m elevation, 2:00 hrs.
In 5 minutes to the visible Stöhrhaus (1894m). From there
a) on the marked path to Scheibenkaser. –
Or shorter through the original Mittagsloch (difficulty 1 and B, dangerous when wet): From Stöhrhaus just 50m down the hiking trail, then 10m to the right to the hidden entrance of the large rock hole. Down through the cave on a cable and over unsecured, steep rock slabs with risk of falling along the south faces to Scheibenkaser. – From Scheibenkaser on the hiking trail back to the parking lot Hinterettenberg / Rossboden.
b) Via the marked Stöhrweg to Maria Gern.
Sulzer Wasserfall
Scheibenkaser am Untersberg
Scheibenkaser 1440m
Berchtesgadener Hochthron (1.972 m)
Bercht. Hochthron 1972m
Stöhrhaus
Das Stöhrhaus auf dem Untersberg
Aussichtspunkt
Public transport
Public transport access unfortunately not possible.
Directions
a) From Marktschellenberg towards Ettenberg and nearly 5km up to the hiking parking lot Hinterettenberg / Rossboden (elevation 780m).
b) From Berchtesgaden to Maria Gern and further to the hiking parking lot Hintergern (elevation 800m).
Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
50m single rope, 10 quickdraws, no additional protection necessary.
The route is exactly set up for 50m.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions